synthetic oil

I think the VW Jetta engine can go so long because you have to add a quart ever 3,000 miles! At least thats how my wifes Jetta was. Had it check over several times as it was a little disturbing, but was always told that was normal for that engine. Everything I researched online said the same.
Are they still burning oil like that?

TroyScherer said:
This topic is very interesting and so are the comments.

I have a VW Jetta and according to the service manual and the shop they call for oil changes every 10,000 miles. And the first few oil changes were on the dealer so thats what we did. For me this is great as my wife drives a lot for work. I am now doing my own oil changes, and there is no way I would go down to 3 - 5,000 mile intervals.... The oil that the Manuela calls for is like $9-10 a quart!!!! It is just over $60 for me to do my own oil change with the correct oil. The dealership want $75+ for the same thing; and the quick lubes won't guarantee that they are using the specific oil because they only have their standards. The other big thing is I don't always have the time to do an oil change every other month or so.

If you are changing your oil every 3-5,000 mile then I think Std or even Syn-Blend oil is the way to go to keep cost down. But if your are trying to go 10,000 like some of the new vehicle recommendations then Full-Syn is the way to go.

But then again this is only my opinion.
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i recently started switched to synthetics. And its between castrol and mobil products. I did get like 1-2 increase in mpg. And yes i always use OEM filters too.
 
Hi guys. I have a Mitsubishi Lancer 1992 car. Right now I'm using a full synthetic Mobil 1 5W-50 for my car. With all these info you've provided, I think the choice of engine oil is really dependent on personal choice. But my question is, is there any article stating that full synthetic is OK for high mileage, old engines like mine? I know you guys are experts here but it would really be a breather if we have some kind of article or literature stating it's really OK to use synthetic for those types of engine. BTW I have a 4G13 engine 1.3 displacement. I just want to know specifically because I don't want to end up having an engine overhaul.. The manual states I should be using an API SG type of oil but I think with the hot weather here, it won't protect the engine that much.. Not to mention the stop-and-go driving condition in my place..
 
Why wouldn't a synthetic be suitable for a high-mileage engine? It's still oil, it meets the same API specs. Back when synthetics were real synthetics, the properties were so much better than the conventional oils of the day, people said not to use synthetic oils in new engines because they would never break in.

But the conventional oils are so much better than back then, and the synthetics today aren't like the real synthetics of back then.
 
There is some "theory" that an engine raised on Dino oil will leak if you convert it to synthetic. I can't recall the exact reasoning, but it has something to do with seals swelling or not swelling with one or the other.

I would switch anyway. Synthetic oils are really that much better. The only "seals" I would be really worried about are valve seals, and you will know if this is an issue because oil consumption would go up. I say there is a 0.05% chance of this happening though.

Synthetic oil will always be better at preventing an engine from "blowing up" or "grenading" - as I like to say.
 
Swanicyouth said:
There is some "theory" that an engine raised on Dino oil will leak if you convert it to synthetic. I can't recall the exact reasoning, but it has something to do with seals swelling or not swelling with one or the other.

I would switch anyway. Synthetic oils are really that much better. The only "seals" I would be really worried about are valve seals, and you will know if this is an issue because oil consumption would go up. I say there is a 0.05% chance of this happening though.

Synthetic oil will always be better at preventing an engine from "blowing up" or "grenading" - as I like to say.
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My 1989 Pontiac Sunbird leaked like crazy after I switched to synthetic at the first oil change. The oil pan gasket was cork, and back then IIRC, Castrol warned of gasket leak during use. (Biggest POS I ever owned, but that's all I could afford)

2007 Tundra with 150,000 miles: Has had conventional, blend, and full synthetic over its life. Doesn't use oil and I change it between 5-7000 miles. No leaks!!
2007 Mini Cooper with 75,000 miles: Full synthetic as recommended by stupid label on valve cover...change between 5-7000 miles.
1995 S-10 with 185,000 miles: Cheapest stuff I can buy goes into this engine...I think if I pissed in the crankcase it wouldn't matter...thing just won't die. I don't even keep track of miles when I change!!!

My dad's 1986 Honda Civic Si had 280,000 miles on it when sold. I had to beg him to have the oil changed in that thing...didn't smoke and ran as good as the day he bought it when I sold it for $500. Always had conventional oil...
My daughter's 2002 VW Beetle with 100,000 miles: Whenever I changed the oil I used synthetic...not sure what was used prior. This thing uses and leaks oil like crazy!!!!

With all the different amount of miles, brands of mfgr, types of engines, you'll have to convince me synthetic is "better"!! And those who change synthetic oil at 3,000 miles...what a waste of money!!!
 
My wifes new Toyota Highlander has a recommended 10k mile/12 month oil change on Synthetic. So I use synthetic on hers as it saves me from having to take it to work and climb under it every 5k miles to use Dino oil, and because dealer/Toyota says its ok she doesn't bug me about it. My Toyota Tundra gets a synthetic blend we buy in a 55 gallon drum for our shop for service trucks and family vehicles. My Camaro gets Synthetic and once year oil change before it gets put away for winter only see's 3-5K miles a year in good weather. I like synthetic for extended service intervals (less time stuck under the car) ends up costing about the same per mile. For heavy use vehicles (like my truck that tows every weekend in summer) I like changing it out every 5K with avg dino oil just to get fresh blood in there.
 
This has actually been debated for quite some time and probably will long after me. Known facts about conventional oil (natural) and synthetics (Man Made) are as follows. Synthetic molecules are more consistent in size versus inconsistent size with conventional oil. That is translated into better friction properties and also longer cycles between oil changes. Then technology starts to play into it also with advancements in refinement, allowing for longer cycles between oil changes in conventional oil up to 7,500 miles. Most conventional oils today can make 5,000 miles easily between oil changes. Synthetics however are capable up to 15,000 miles (Mobile 1 the only one I know of). Most synthetics however usually don't require changing until about 7,500 miles. Most cars can have synthetics without any real mechanical issues. I say most because there is always an exception to the rule but I don't know of any that can't make the switch. Only real drawback to switching to synthetics is possible leaks. If the engine isn't properly sealed a synthetic oil will find the weak spot and penetrate, where as conventional oil may not. Little known fact is the auto industry started out with the perfect oil that never required changing but had to get away from it because it ruffled the feathers of some people. Oil preference is exactly that, preference, much like wax, compounds, and polish. Just remember a clean engine is a reliable engine, select the oil that give you the cleanest engine for any given budget.
 
thanks guys for the reply! :) um just a question though @geoff19crx when you mentioned oil leaks for using synthetics for old engines, is it that harmful aside from the fact that oil will be lost every now and then? I mean, the only thing I'm actually avoiding here is engine damage, more specifically an engine blow-by.. I'm good with adding oil every now and then so long as I won't need to have the engine opened cause here on our place once you have the local backyard mechanics tinker around your engine, you're assured to be a regular customer cause they'll toy around the engine making you return to their shop for complaints every single day..
 
Todd Helme said:
But this brings up the question... Is VW oil REALLY better than a major brand (Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil).... I mean it is doubtful that Audi Group owns their own oil refinery so what you are likely paying for is rebranded oil at a huge mark up...
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Well Audi & Porsche both factory fill with Mobil 1 Euro Standard and recommend oil changes are scheduled 1x year or 10k miles, whichever comes first. Think of all the cars they lease to customers where the factory is responsible for the engine. Gotta believe you can easily go 10k if not longer under "average" driving conditions. But as always...YMMV
 
mitch08 said:
thanks guys for the reply! :) um just a question though @geoff19crx when you mentioned oil leaks for using synthetics for old engines, is it that harmful aside from the fact that oil will be lost every now and then? I mean, the only thing I'm actually avoiding here is engine damage, more specifically an engine blow-by.. I'm good with adding oil every now and then so long as I won't need to have the engine opened cause here on our place once you have the local backyard mechanics tinker around your engine, you're assured to be a regular customer cause they'll toy around the engine making you return to their shop for complaints every single day..
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Mitch if you are having issues with blow-by with conventional oil then you will most definitely have it synthetic, maybe even worse. Synthetics have a habit of finding any faults in seals to include rings. My suggestion would be use conventional oil since you have blow-by as it is cheaper until such a time it can be fixed.
 
Another Mobile 1 user here for most of our vehicles save for my old truck. The only other synthetics I'd consider are Penzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum.
Mobile does make a version of Mobile 1 specifically for high mileage/older engines.
 
LostHighway said:
Mobile does make a version of Mobile 1 specifically for high mileage/older engines.
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Oh here we go...Mobil makes a version of Mobil 1 for everything. They have the 0W "economy", the regular, the extended performance, the high mileage...and at Wal-Mart at least, they are all the SAME PRICE. What does that tell me? That most of the difference is in the label. Why on earth would anyone buy regular 5W-30 when you can get the extended performance 5W-30 for the same price? Why would Mobil and/or Wal-Mart sell them at the same price if the extended performance has higher performance and presumably costs more to make? Even if they cost the same, why don't Mobil/Wal-Mart sell EP for more because you are getting more performance? If it doesn't cost more to make, why do they even make the "regular"?

Mobil has been all marketing BS ever since they lost the "synthetic" suit to Castrol. What oil do I use? Mobil 1 (for the reasons Swanic stated). It's just really hard to parse the marketing BS anymore (when they first came out with the EP oil it didn't meet the then-current API spec because it had too high levels of that anti-wear additive, and it had "extended performance" over the regular which met the API spec. That was a couple revisions ago and now they both meet the current SN spec.)

Oh, and the "high mileage", what would be different about that oil? Back in the day when most cars used 10W-40 oil, a "high mileage" oil was 20W-50. I'm sure some of you are going to argue that a high-mileage oil has special additives in it to revitalize the engine seals...huh? Like there aren't a zillion kinds of seals in a zillion kinds of cars you could put that oil in. Or maybe you guys think you can fix your blown trans with a can of crap from the auto store.

Ok, I'm going back to chasing people off my lawn.
 
Yes. $18 off. Total bill is $86.36. Still the cheapest around here. And they rotate tires for free. Never had a problem with them. The xterra takes 5.5 quarts. I usually run 7-7.5 K miles between changes.
 
Shelby gets Amsoil Oil, tranny and gear fluid. The 2 Hemi's in the Charger and Durango get Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. All 3 get K&N filters.
 
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