synthetic oil

I run Nissan Ester Oil in my 370Z, it is recommended but not required by Nissan. I tried to get in touch with Nissan to find out more about this wonder oil, I couldn't even get an answer from them. I did a lot of research and found the oil actually has diamond particles in it. Which would be cross intuitive seeing that diamonds should wear the engine out quicker. It was explained to me at the nano level the wear is too small to make a difference. I have alway ran a synthetic oil in all of my cars, from Mobil one to Amsoil and never had any oil related problems. I'll stick with synthetic, a few more bucks for peace of mind.
 
I run Amsoil Signatire Series in my 03 Cobra and am more then Happy with it . I actually run Amsoil SS in the Trans and Rear as well . Instantly felt much smoother shifting . My Cobra was in heated garage for the better part of its life , that changed 3 years or so ago . It doesn't get driven from Nov. to April . During start ups over the winter I cringed , once I switched to Amsoil you cannot tell it has been sitting for weeks during start/warm ups through the winter months . Not even a millisecond of valve train noise . That's proof enough for me . Personally I get all warm and fuzzy inside when I change the oil in it . It just feels Good .

Daren
 
I started using Rotella T5 in OPE. The biggest difference so far is T5 foams a lot more easily if you overfill.
 
For those of us Autopians that live in (very) cold climates and have their cars sit out overnight when it -20°F, synthetic oils are a wise choice for cold starts. Is it worth it cost wise when compared to conventional oils? I do believe that cars start easier and faster and overall, it's easier on the starter and there is less of the clack-clack-clack of the valve train for that first 5 seconds or so until the oil is pumped to them.

The one drawback that may happen to cars that use synthetic oils and sit for long periods of time (like warm-weather-only garage queens) is that the oil is so superior in terms of viscosity (the measure of pourability based on its "thickness") that it may run off cylinder walls when sitting for long periods of time. This is why it may be necessary to start vehicles sitting in storage or non-use on a monthly basis and let them warm up. The other option is to remove the distributor wire and cold-crank the engine over and let the oil pump through the engine for about 5-10 seconds to prime the oil system if the vehicle has been sitting for an extended period of time.
 
Another vote for Mobil 1. Tip: the 5 quart containers are waaaay cheaper (almost half price) at Walmart than they are at local autoparts stores. At least around here with the big chain auto stores... It's the only thing I ever go to Walmart for :)
 
detailermpls said:
Another vote for Mobil 1. Tip: the 5 quart containers are waaaay cheaper (almost half price) at Walmart than they are at local autoparts stores. At least around here with the big chain auto stores... It's the only thing I ever go to Walmart for :)
Click to expand...
This is true. I have an AutoZone right across the parking lot from WalMart. I go in and take a cell phone pic of the current price and then go to AutoZone for them to match the price. You also get your AutoZone points this way.
 
This is a related question on para-synthetic oils, IE, those that "supposedly" half-synthetic-half conventional oil.
I think that somewhere within this forum someone made the comment that some of these para-synthetic oils were mostly comprised of conventional oil; somewhere in the neighbor hood of 3:1 ratios, or only 25% synthetic. I cannot vouch for this or which brands these allegations may (or may not) apply to. I do know that there are no "standards" for labeling that tell the consumers that. I think everyone assumes that it is a 50/50 blend. The only true way to guarantee this 50/50 ratio is to mix your own oils from the same oil weights and brand manufacturer.
It's kind of like having your pancake syrup state that is it maple syrup flavored, when it may not contain any maple syrup whatsoever. I now see that the state of Vermont federal legislators are trying to pass laws about the truth in labeling of syrups for this very reason to inform consumers of what they are actually getting instead of them assuming they are getting some maple syrup.
 
What most people dont know is that regular oil will lose or drop a weight after 1000 miles. So your 10W30 is now 10W20. Synthetic doesn`t do this. Synthetic does not wear out. I would still use the recommend using the manufacturer change interval.
 
I run synthetic in my vehicles, my 300SRT and SP Challenger actually call for synthetic. My different vehicles break down oil differently, check out bob is the oil guy if you want to do some reading on oils etc, also blackstone labs will send you free test kit but charge $28 to test your oil and recommend oil change intervals, oil break down, engine problems.
 
PA DETAILER- I`d think that regulars here know that I`m not one to pinch pennies to the point of being neglectful of, well...anything.

But I`ve done absolutely fine with *FAR* less frequent OCIs than I used to think necessary. Lots of YMMV factors, but that`s been my experience and I have triple-digit-K miles on a few of our drivers with zero indication that anything`s wrong (well, the A8 has used oil since the day it rolled out of the showroom but it`s never gotten any worse).

I probably oughta get a UOA done on all of `em (thanks for the reminder, HCF!), but I`m 100% confident that all my vehicles` engines will easily outlive both me and my wife (Tahoe and Crown Vic might get engine swaps anyhow..). While that "last as long as I do then who cares" might sound like a [crappy] perspective, nobody else`ll want to bother with the upkeep on the Audis/Jag and I expect they`ll end up in recycling yards when I`m gone.
 
The part that kills me (as a technician) is the fact that even if your oil has additives to still be oil after 20,000 miles, that doesn`t change the fact that your engine is still adding carbon, moisture, and unburned fuel to the oil that whole time.

In another thread I posted pictures of 2 different BMW engines I had the valve cover off of at work. One was an X3 that followed the factory schedule of 15ish thousand miles. Another was a 335 that changed the oil about every 5,000. Same oil in both, and the X3 was disgusting inside. (Super sludged up). I`d post the pictures up again, but it seems like half the time they don`t work.

Count me as a 5k`r.
 
I haven`t reread this entire thread and I`ve made this comment before, perhaps in this thread, so forgive me if so. I`m not willing to see how long oil might safely go in my engines. I`ve changed my oil at a 500 mile break in interval and then at 3000 to 3500 miles for as long as I`ve driven. That means I don`t need to change it on the day it rolls 3000. Even though the synthetic I use these days claims to be able to go multiple times that distance I don`t want to know where the oil`s limitation is. I really don`t trust a filter to it`s job 7500 miles down the road. This all said, I`m never had an internal mechanical engine failure in all the vehicles I`ve owned and I sincerely believe it has something to do with this. I also happen to rotate my tires at a 3500 mile interval. That number just works for me. ;)
 
Synthetic in the vehicles I own and fossil in the vehicles I lease. Been using Mobil 1 for years and no issues so I`m not even looking to change. I wish there was a way to gauge performance but to me if the porsche 911 turbo , the chevy corvette and other high performance car manufacturers trust it in their engines I`ll be fine.
 
Mobil 1 for me, at the factory recommended weight. I try to keep it at 5k interval, but if it stretches a bit that`s why I use synthetic. Plus the manual calls for 7.5k in "normal" conditions.

Our family has had multiple vehicles from <30k miles all the way up to >200k miles, using Mobil 1 and 5k OCIs. Never had an issue, and the engines were starting to outlast the vehicles.

If you want to keep the vehicle for a long time, synthetic is a no-brainer to me.
 
kajunman said:
What most people dont know is that regular oil will lose or drop a weight after 1000 miles. So your 10W30 is now 10W20. Synthetic doesn`t do this. Synthetic does not wear out. I would still use the recommend using the manufacturer change interval.
Click to expand...

Don`t know where you`re getting that information from, but that is incorrect. There are thousands of oil analysis reports around the net that all stay within spec.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top