synthetic oil

Heh heh....if I were gonna care about this as much as some of you, my first step would be a Used Oil Analysis. Absent that, IMO, it's all just guesswork and feel-good subjectivism.

Daily drivers, Hi-po toys, low/high mileage...never had any lubrication-related issues with any vehicle despite my simple-as-can-be approach to it. Well, OK...I do read about UOI results for some of my engines and use the data when making decisions, but only when it convinces me that I'm overkilling the issue in a huge way (e.g., Ford modular engines do fine with looong OCI and most any oil).
 
People can't just pick a brand or a type. The rating and the additive packages are very important. I like Mobil 1. It is a good oil. But when I was running full synthetic Mobil 1 in my Cobra... bye bye camshaft. Yes, the demise of the cam was professionally confirmed in multiple ways. Not enough ZDDP (basically zinc) for a flat tappet cam. None of their synthetics had enough and I did not want to go to dyno oil so went to Shell Rotella T. New cam shaft later no more issues. My BMW gets Mobil 1 0W-40 LL01. Last OCI was 16,200 miles and the UOA was perfect (including the TBN) and they said I could have easily gone longer. Been using it in the car since day one and has 160,000 trouble free miles on it. The high mileage oils DO make a difference. Weather you notice or not depends but have spent enough time talking to oil engineers (chemist?) that I am convinced. When there is an appropriate option I use them. My sons Escape and my wifes recently off 100,000 mile warranty will be getting them. Filters.... for the BMW they are always OEM. For the other cars I prefer Purilator Pure 1.
 
rdorman- hey, that's something, the Cobra eating its cams! Were those the OE camshafts or aftermarket?

Glad to hear you're using a sensible OCI on the BMW and having UOA done, that's going about it right.
 
It was a 1965 AC Cobra Replica built by Unique (they didn't build the motor). It had a big valve 351 Cleveland in and the cam was from Crane. Two lobes and lifters where toast. Put three times the miles on it with the new cam (also from Crane) but running the 'correct' oil. The demise of the cam was confirmed Crane, the engine builder and Blackstone. Great oil, just the wrong one!

Blackstone said to try 18,000 next time on the oil and filter combo I use in the BMW. I tend to start thinking about it around 15k or when the OCI light comes on. To this day the car does not use any oil never once had to top it off with that interval.

Tons of really great oils out there folks, just make sure they have the appropriate rating and are in the weight ball park.
 
rdorman- Thanks for explaining, I was worried that it was a Modular engine in a newer (Mustang) Cobra. Great that you're putting so many miles on that car.
 
Accumulator said:
Heh heh....if I were gonna care about this as much as some of you, my first step would be a Used Oil Analysis. Absent that, IMO, it's all just guesswork and feel-good subjectivism.
Click to expand...

Even with analysis, there's still guesswork involved. I get Blackstone reports on all my cars and motorcycles, every other oil change roughly, on my DD, every oil change. It is what I read in those reports, and my desire to use an approved oil with a 5W-40 weight rather than 0W, that made me switch to Liqui Moly from Mobil 1. But yeah, swapping brands willy nilly has no value. Just wanted to get my 2c in there, lest I be judged by the Accumulator. :P
 
BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) is probably one of the best resources i've come across on oil.

With that said you really can't go wrong with any big name brand oil (Mobil 1, Pennz, Quaker State, Castrol etc.)

Its just knowing what weight to use for the average consumer
 
JHL88 said:
BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) is probably one of the best resources i've come across on oil.

With that said you really can't go wrong with any big name brand oil (Mobil 1, Pennz, Quaker State, Castrol etc.)

Its just knowing what weight to use for the average consumer
Click to expand...

I love BITOG! I would add 'its just knowing what weight AND API/SAE rating'.
 
My SRT8 requires I use Mobil 1 0w40 full synthetic oil. Going to try some Brad Pen (green oil) 10w30 this summer (for racing).
 
PPLd said:
Why are you switching to less protection for racing?
Click to expand...

How is it less protection in your opinion?

I've heard that others use it to race in their Jeep SRT8's because during the summer months you don’t need a thin oil (0w vs. 10w) and you want to keep the oil pressure down at high load like drag racing (40 vs. 30). So 10w30 is thinner at high temp than 0w40 and 10w30 is thicker at low temp (lifters are noisy in the summer with 0w40 and headers).
 
JHL88 said:
BITOG (Bob is the oil guy) is probably one of the best resources i've come across on oil.​
Click to expand...

Yeah, real wealth of info there!

WaxAddict said:
Even with ..It is what I read in those reports.... Just wanted to get my 2c in there, lest I be judged by the Accumulator. :P
Click to expand...


Yeah, reports are subject to interpretation all right. Even when they include an Expert Summary.

As for my judging folks on this topic, about the only thing I criticize is when people 1) change out synthetics every few thousand without having a good reason for doing so or 2) abuse their vehicles by not doing a reasonable OCI (not too likely on this forum).
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
How is it less protection in your opinion?

I've heard that others use it to race in their Jeep SRT8's because during the summer months you don’t need a thin oil (0w vs. 10w) and you want to keep the oil pressure down at high load like drag racing (40 vs. 30). So 10w30 is thinner at high temp than 0w40 and 10w30 is thicker at low temp (lifters are noisy in the summer with 0w40 and headers).
Click to expand...

Hey buddy I dont drive SRT so I am trying to say from my personal point of view.
If SRT has unique design or your got a reference from somewhere else, then you be the judge.

You mentioned 2 cases - summer and race.
You want the oil to protect your engine as soon as possible, so you should never use anything other than 0w unless manufacturer ask for it, even in summer.
Second, 0w40 are usually(not always though) thicker high performance oil which give more protection in race than 10w30 oils even coming from the same manufacturer.
40 can withstand intense pressure and heat from racing by giving lubrication your engine needs, not the 30 one.

in my MB owners manual, it says you can use 30 if you are on the street for better fuel econ,
but 0w40 filled to max is necessary if you are racing the car.
So I asked why you do it the reverse way.
For me, I use ester 0W40 in all my cars, all year round when the surrounding temperature ranges from freezing 32F to hot 113F.
have never heard any weird sound for using 40 for my cars, always smooth from idle to redline.
 
PPLd to answer your question about why he is doing it in the reverse way is actually very simple, granted I doubt he is making the power to make this even matter. Think of it like this! Does your car make more power with the AC on or off? AC off right! It is very simple, Thicker oil means more effort to push the oil through the system, thinner oil less effort creating more available hp. So long as you maintain pressure to lube the system you will be able to lubricate the engine. This has been a common practice with race cars for years but longevity is really never a concern for track cars.
 
PPLd said:
Hey buddy I dont drive SRT so I am trying to say from my personal point of view.
If SRT has unique design or your got a reference from somewhere else, then you be the judge.

You mentioned 2 cases - summer and race.
You want the oil to protect your engine as soon as possible, so you should never use anything other than 0w unless manufacturer ask for it, even in summer.
Second, 0w40 are usually(not always though) thicker high performance oil which give more protection in race than 10w30 oils even coming from the same manufacturer.
40 can withstand intense pressure and heat from racing by giving lubrication your engine needs, not the 30 one.

in my MB owners manual, it says you can use 30 if you are on the street for better fuel econ,
but 0w40 filled to max is necessary if you are racing the car.
So I asked why you do it the reverse way.
For me, I use ester 0W40 in all my cars, all year round when the surrounding temperature ranges from freezing 32F to hot 113F.
have never heard any weird sound for using 40 for my cars, always smooth from idle to redline.
Click to expand...

I'll take your word for it and stick with 0w40.
What’s an MB? (Only one car comes to mind)

I'm not pro when it comes to engine oil and I haven’t made the switch yet but I do drag race my Jeep SRT8 every other week in the summer if not more. I also noticed my lifters are were getting a little louder and after installing long tube exhaust headers the valve train became really noticeable. I hit up the Jeep SRT8 forms and one of the top turbo kit builder/installer swore by Brad Pen "green oil" 10w30 (specifically), he said it will quite the lifters. He further endorsed it by saying, he uses it for every turbo build and none have had failure due to lack of lubrication.

I think groff19crx is right, that there’s something to it but the gains is negligible unless I’m racing professionally, as the guy that recommended it to me, is…

Here’s my best time slip from last year, with the DA circulated for that track on that date and time:
 
Sorry man I mean Mercedes Benz when I said MB.
Oh yes if you got the budget, by all means please try these oils.
It is all I use in my cars for almost a decade and ppl say they are the best out there.
I can "feel" the engine is smoother, probably due to less friction, than Mobil 1 or other common brands.

10491076_10155165404125398_8068879343996974062_n.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top