Synthetic Oil

metload1 said:
sweet,



I think I'm going to start with synthetic oils then, probably mobile 1. I'd like to try some of that lc20 and fp60... where do you buy that?
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What OCI are you looking to do?? Mobil 1 itself is good for 10k if you change the filter in the middle or use the Mobil 1 EP filter...and if you add LC20 to the mix, then you should have no problem reaching the 15k mark, granted your engine is well maintained :bigups



Good luck!
 
mburnickas said:
Using Lc20 in Amsoil ASL



All my wears dropped from 0 to 59%, OXD and Nox dropped 45.83 to 38.25% and my TBN went up 26%.. Also ZDDP was up 8.29% and 11.9%. All this will cleaning…not bad.



I would agree if I never tested my oil, but after 4 years of running Amsoil in this car, Amsoil ASL needs help. Lc20 will help this oil and any oil. I would concer with oil testing and you will clearly see the advantage;
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Interesting. I always thought amsoil had one of the better additive packages out there (I guess they do, but the LC is even better). Have you used it in your ATF at all?
 
I know my car (Lexus ES300) with the sludge engine is very stressful on oils. It is not a sludge engine per say (I have valve cover pics etc) but the EGR does run overtime and it does product higher heat loads. All this makes the oil run in OT.



I am also running there ASL which is there cheapest PAO oil. I know there series 3000 would be more shear stable etc, but LC does the better and cheaper.



I am still using Amsoil ATF in the tranny. No LC20 yet.
 
I'm using Amsoil ATM 10w30 in my buick. Those supercharged 3800's do get on the toasty side (especially after i do the pully drop this summer) so i'm for all the protection i can get. I'm gonna get some LC20 and give it a try. Still waiting for an answer on using it in my Amsoil ATF.
 
victory said:
I'm using Amsoil ATM 10w30 in my buick. Those supercharged 3800's do get on the toasty side (especially after i do the pully drop this summer) so i'm for all the protection i can get. I'm gonna get some LC20 and give it a try. Still waiting for an answer on using it in my Amsoil ATF.
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Same reason I decided to use Redline instead of M1 in my Impala SS. I wasn't too pleased that M1 5W30 now only meets ACEA A1 ratings. Haven't had a chance to add LC yet due to low miles but it's going in immediately after the recommended wait period. Using M1 may not be that big a deal but I'm not going to chance it, especially after the mods I have planned.
 
victory said:
I'm using Amsoil ATM 10w30 in my buick. Those supercharged 3800's do get on the toasty side (especially after i do the pully drop this summer) so i'm for all the protection i can get. I'm gonna get some LC20 and give it a try. Still waiting for an answer on using it in my Amsoil ATF.
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You can use it in the ATF per the bottle. Also when running in engine oil first few times, it will turn oil black in about 5 miles.



Also I would run 2 oz per qt all the time. Not 1.
 
mburnickas said:
You can use it in the ATF per the bottle. Also when running in engine oil first few times, it will turn oil black in about 5 miles.



Also I would run 2 oz per qt all the time. Not 1.
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In that case i may wait. I just put in fresh amsoil 2 days ago. I don't want to have to change it again for a while.
 
Won't i have to change the oil after the initial dose? I figure if it cleans things out enough to turn the oil black that stuff that breaks loose is gunking up your filter and oil, no? Or just don't worry about it?
 
No, engine oil if bad (sludge, carbon etc) Lc20 will turn then into liquid. Then it will filter down as much as it can (micron) and then rest is used to reduce wear. Yup, it turns these into ways to lube more, and lower wear rates. Ask Terry on how it works since that is how I get it. He posts on Bob's site it you want to look for it. Oh...here you go! :)



http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=004295#000000



PLus going by oil color is not really the best way here. I know my oil is black right now and was black the last drain. Oil comes back good. I would just add in 2oz per qt engine oil and then every 1,000 miles add another 2oz, not 1. Then I would change oil at normal interval (as you normally) do and get it tested by whoever. Then see how it looks.
 
Mobil-1 that's all you need. Porsche fills all their cars with it and is needed for Vario-Cam to work correctly.





Besides, my first service for my Porsche?......20K miles!



Deanski
 
I do not know if I buy that. Mobil 1 is good but I would take Amosil or Redline over that. For that matter, I would pull some UOA and see what is good in your car.
 
paul34 said:
isn't Mobil 1 no longer fully synthetic?



... or so I've been hearing
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Mobil is a group IV PAO FULL, REAL, TRUE, etc. synthetic. Call them up and ask to speak to one of their engineers.



As far as Amsoil is concerned, I refuse to put any oil not certified by API in any of my vehicles. If you read Amsoil's marketing hype, you will find that theit oils are "made" to or "meet" API specifications. They do not have the API seal on the bottle. Amsoil claims they don't want to pay for API testing.



The fact is Mobil 1 has been around for years, is a true PAO full synthetic, is made by a reputable refiner, and is factory fill in many of the world's exotic cars.



Boutique products may be great for detailing. If one doesn't work, try a different brand. I refuse to experiment with oil that isn't API certified. Especially when a replacement engine for my F250 diesel costs somewhere around $14,000.





(In regards to an earlier post on this thread: Mazda in fact DOES NOT recommend synthetic oil for their ROTARY engines. The reason is rooted in the fact that rotary engines are desiged to burn/use oil. )
 
Deanski said:
Besides, my first service for my Porsche?......20K miles!



Deanski
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Don't worry! I'm sure your first service at 20K will cost more than all the 0 to 20K services on my 2004 Mach1, 2005 Subaru Legacy GT ans 2005 F250 Powerstroke 4 X 4 combined!:woohoo:
 
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