Switch to Rotary ???

A

autobahnshine

New member
Here's my dilema:



I use the Griot's Garage random orbital, along with their polishes, and it takes FOREVER. I'll use Machine Polish 3 & 2, and do numerous passes, over and over, and I can never seem to get results that are competely swirl free... I want use a rotary along with menzerna, and 3m products (similar to that of Mr. Dalton)... will this improve the time spent/results ???
 
Just the fact that you'd be using a rotary would absolutely improve the time and results, if you know how to use one. I've just started to get the hang of it and even though I'm still new with one, I've notice a big difference from an ROB. I've personally never used menzerna, but there are lots threads here where it is mentioned and praised.
 
To answer your question.... Yes.



Rotory cuts my time in half, easy. BUT be forwarned.... it will take some time for you to get good with a rotory. Disasters are just a second away at all times! Read up on rotory use. Practice with rotory.. that means, not just on spare junk hoods either. Practice on friend's cars that are pretty much shot and no one cares if the paint gets burnt.



The biggest thing I learned was that after I thought i was a pro.. i still made mistakes. For example, after using the rotory on perhaps over ten cars without incident, i came across a car that needed extreme correction in very tight places. OOPS. Paint damage in less than a second!!



Pad selection, product choice, pad angle, pad pressure, rpm speed, the particular car, paint, panel, correction needed, ALL play important roles while detailing a car with a rotory.



Good luck and post pics!!!!!!:bigups
 
I went to a rotary a few years ago and it was the single biggest improvement to my detailing (although my extractor is a close second!). I had a practice panel and a neighbor who frequently donated his beater for me to "practice" on. I was amazed at the difference between the PC and the rotary. Don't forget your PC, though. I still use mine on certain occasions.



David703 nailed it - they can quickly get you in trouble however with practice and respect for its potential damage they can do amazing work.
 
I swapped a few weeks ago.. Hasn't really saved me much time, but I can do so much more correction in that time it isn't even funny. Results are great so far. Before I would just give up on some scratches, now I just get rid of them. Still a rookie, but it is a little more demanding (mentally and physically), you have to keep your concentration at all times.. Once you get into the zone its pretty easy though.
 
autobahnshine said:
Here's my dilema:



I use the Griot's Garage random orbital, along with their polishes, and it takes FOREVER. I'll use Machine Polish 3 & 2, and do numerous passes, over and over, and I can never seem to get results that are competely swirl free...
Click to expand...





I have fairly extensive (and frustrating) experience with the Griot's Machine Polishes.



Note that the Griot's orange pad and their MP#2 and MP#3 are a *VERY* mild approach. Even the MP#1 isn't much.



So yeah, using a rotary, if only for the initial major correction, will be a huge step forward. I could never get really good correction out of the Griot's polishes by PC and only got so-so results using them via Cyclo. I don't expect their current machine to be much more powerful than the Cyclo so I can sure understand your wanting to step up to something else.



Oh, and I find *most* polishes/compounds to be more user-friendly and effective than the Griot's MPs. The MP#3 is OK when you need something *VERY* gentle, but otherwise I'd much rather use almost any other brand.
 
The above four posts definitely covered much ground with rotary usage.



I would just like to add that it will be much easier on you and your rotary transition if you stick to just major correction, use your griots machine for final polishing, I don't mind using my pc for final polishing it's easy and much faster than correction with a pc.



Avoid those tight areas entirely with a rotary until you are completely confident in your abilities, use the griots on those areas or even by hand if you must, it may not be as well corrected but at least there's still paint so better safe than sorry.
 
VaSuperShine said:
The above four posts definitely covered much ground with rotary usage.



I would just like to add that it will be much easier on you and your rotary transition if you stick to just major correction, use your griots machine for final polishing, I don't mind using my pc for final polishing it's easy and much faster than correction with a pc.
Click to expand...




Thanks for the input guys... did you mean faster than rotary ?? Is it the heat that makes it so easy to burn, b/c the griot's has a fan... and they market that product around its cool-temp abiliites...
 
Hi everyone, I am new here to the forums, and I am glad I found Autopia for reading and learning many of the products and techniques for detailing. This forum caught my attention because I would like to get started or at least try to use a machine to be able to polish and detail a car. After reading some of the posts above, and for someone like me, who has never used a machine to do any detail work on a car (I have always done mild detailing by hand) what can you suggest to get started with, the random orbital, start with the Rotary, or just jump in and try the Porter Cable? My father has volunteered his car for the trial and error part of using a machine to work on his car.



Thanks in advance for any suggestions...
 
N1271CL said:
Hi everyone, I am new here to the forums, and I am glad I found Autopia for reading and learning many of the products and techniques for detailing. This forum caught my attention because I would like to get started or at least try to use a machine to be able to polish and detail a car. After reading some of the posts above, and for someone like me, who has never used a machine to do any detail work on a car (I have always done mild detailing by hand) what can you suggest to get started with, the random orbital, start with the Rotary, or just jump in and try the Porter Cable? My father has volunteered his car for the trial and error part of using a machine to work on his car.



Thanks in advance for any suggestions...
Click to expand...



Personally I'd start with the PC7424 or UDM.



They're great machines, and you can get great results with them.. Safely.. And almost instantly. Very small learning curve to get started with one, but it does take a little bit of time to start getting really good results with it.



I really think if I had to jump straight in with the rotary, I'd probably quit about the 2nd time I used it.. Much larger learning curve, and like I said earlier, much more mentally and physically demanding than the orbital offerings. Plus learning on the PC, you will learn alot about both products and the true paint condition, and it helps alot with choosing what type of product it will take to do the job correctly..
 
Great! Thanks for your quick reply DantheMan, from reading the above posts, I got all happy and excited about the right machine for the job; however, I agree with having to start small, get familiar with a machine until I feel comfortable, then like you said use different products and compare what would be the best, and then maybe move on to a higher type of machine. Even though I have a volunteer, I don't want to go and burn the paing all over the place and then probably regret it. Now, any suggestions of what I can attach to the PC7424? I read of all these pads and different colors that I do not know where to begin. My dad has neglected his car, and I have seen up close the swirl marks, light scratches and oxidation, his car color is light silver.



Thank you again....
 
2 basic options.. Hook and loop (velcro) backing plate and pads, or the Edge system.. Both have their faults, both have their advantages, basically comes down to personal preference. There are thousands and thousands of posts here concerning them.



Pad size is also a personal preference.. Generally speaking they range from 4" to 6.5" for orbital use.. I personally like the smaller pads 4"-5.5" They cover less area at a time, but tend to do a little better when it comes to correction..



Pad colors are just a way of identifying pad aggressiveness. They would be hard to identify if they were all the same color.. Yellow = heavy cut , orange = light cut , green = light cut/polishing, white = polishing, black, blue, red = finishing (at least with the lake country pads, edge may be a little different).. The orange and white pads are the ones I tend to use most with the PC..



But yes, in my opinion its best to start with the orbital.. I had a whole lot of hours on mine before I even considered the rotary. Almost to the point that I was getting bored with it.. And even once I got the rotary, I didn't jump right in.. I had a few scrap panels to work on, then used beaters to start practicing on whole cars, and now I'm starting to work on nicer stuff as I get more comfortable with it.



Keep reading though, you'll figure out most everything you need that way..
 
Thank you once again for your time DantheMan, the information is valuable and I will go slow until, like you said, I feel comfortable and get an idea of how these machines work.
 
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