Swirls still clear visible even after compounding

R

riu247

New member
Hello,



I've been detailing for about a year now and this is my first post here so I was hoping you seasoned veterans could help me out.



I just detailed my father's 6 year old metallic blue Honda Odyssey, and I'm not happy with the results.



The van had clearly visible swirl marks, light oxidation, and scratches. Overall the paint was in fair condition. Primary problem was the swirl marks.



Here's exactly what I did :



-Wash with Meg's Gold Class Wash

-Clay

-3MPIIRC (3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound) using PC on '4'

-Tried buffing compound haze with 50/50 water/alcohol solution

-AIO using PC on '3'

-P21S wax



I did the above procedure exactly as shown but the swirl marks, and oxidation are still clearly visible (almost no visible change in the visiblity of the swirl marks ). I used a generous amount of 3MPIIRC with the PC on '4'. Any suggestions?



Another thing I wanted to ask about was is that the compounding haze was extremely hard to get rid of. I used the 50/50 water/alcohol solution but it did little to remove the haze. I left most of the compounding haze on the vehicle, and went straight to AIO to clean it up for me. Is this okay?



Look forward to any helpful responses.
 
Sounds like a big job. I suggest that you get some DACP. I find that I have better control with it than with the 3M stuff. Apply the DACP with a Meguiar's burgandy pad or another good quality cutting pad. Set the pc at 4 to start and immediately set it to 5+. Work the DACP until it is almost dry. Wipe of the remaining residue with a microfiber polishing cloth. Do one section as a time. Repeat several times if necessary.On a job like this it is a waste of time starting off in the least aggressive manner possible. Don't be afraid to lean into the pc



If this works, I'll get back to you about what I'd do next.



Tom
 
From the description of the paint I'd have to say that the paint is less than fair. Using only a PC is going to be difficult in leveling the paint. The ridges from the swirls and scratches are causing those eye hating refractions of light. The level them, as stated before, a rotary may be the only way to go in terms of working the paint. If you don't have access to one, or the experience, you will have to do your best as described above.



Good advice from above: Do a section and check the results before continuing. Once you know what will work, you are off and buffing.



Either way, Goodluck!!!



Rob Regan
 
Hey guys,



Thanks so much for the help. I'll try the DACP method and see what I come up with.



It was really frustrating to put in all that work and obtain such minimal results. I had such a hard time getting the compounding haze off for some reason, that it was difficult to check my progress as I was working.



Thanks again fellas, I'll post back next week with my results.



-Patrick
 
I'll give you another tip. The light oxidation on that Odyssey is more than likely the beginning of clear coat failure.
 
I find that 3MFCRC to be more aggresive than DACP. You might as well stick with it. I would start it at a 4.5 and crank it up to a 5-6 with a cutting pad with slow passes. Alcohol mix will not remove compounding haze. You can take out the haze with using 3M Machine glaze, #82 or #9 on a polishing pad. Should work.
 
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