Swirls not coming out with rotary, HELP
- Thread starter Drew T.
- Start date
ive never had any luck w/ the 2.5 and a rotory. I dont think the honda clear is too soft cause i just did one and the swirls were pretty hard to remove. I used the IP w/ the megs polishing pad. You could go powergloss and a polishing pad and it should take care of them. If you want a cheaper alternative you could go TOL's 357 magnum cleaner and then go down to the Light cut from there. The 357 isnt real gritty its more of a chemical cleaner.
so you just lay down the polish, then just put the buffer on and then continue to move the buffer over the polish without "pre speading" it out? i always put the polish on, then take the buffer and move it aorund, then kinda of "pop the cluth" few times with the buffer to get it spinning a little and to spread it a little more, then i start polishing. it sounds like you just need some practice with the roatary.
Vernon
Vernon
salty
Active member
"I've also tried to lay down a bead of the product and go along with the buffer to pick it up, but I still have lots of splatter. I think I just need practice. How much should I tilt the pad when I pick up the polish? "
With very little pressure on the pad, tilt it so you pick up the polish at about 11 o'clock. Once the pad is prepped, which should be after a panel or two, you generally don't need much polish to continue.
With a rotary you should have little problems removing swirls. Chances are that the paint is not soft, as i have only encountered this once, on a new Honda.
I'm thinking that you might be a little timid with the rotary and are not letting the weight of the machine do the work. Pressure is everything, too much and you will burn through the paint and no pressure will do little. When you finish a pass, put your hand on the last spot, is it cold, warm or hot. Depending on pad and polish , heat will vary, but there should be heat. When i remove sand marks- hot, compound-warm hot, smr-warm. THESE TEMP RATINGS are by my hand and HOT, DOES NOT MEAN TOO HOT TO TOUCH.
"some say spritzing water or qd on the pad before buffing is bad and some say its good so what is it?"
Some people prep their pad (once)with a spray first, so they are not polishing dry to start. Some do, some don't. It has been stated that a water spritz (when needed) will add a little cutting action, as it probably delays the compound from breaking down.
With very little pressure on the pad, tilt it so you pick up the polish at about 11 o'clock. Once the pad is prepped, which should be after a panel or two, you generally don't need much polish to continue.
With a rotary you should have little problems removing swirls. Chances are that the paint is not soft, as i have only encountered this once, on a new Honda.
I'm thinking that you might be a little timid with the rotary and are not letting the weight of the machine do the work. Pressure is everything, too much and you will burn through the paint and no pressure will do little. When you finish a pass, put your hand on the last spot, is it cold, warm or hot. Depending on pad and polish , heat will vary, but there should be heat. When i remove sand marks- hot, compound-warm hot, smr-warm. THESE TEMP RATINGS are by my hand and HOT, DOES NOT MEAN TOO HOT TO TOUCH.
"some say spritzing water or qd on the pad before buffing is bad and some say its good so what is it?"
Some people prep their pad (once)with a spray first, so they are not polishing dry to start. Some do, some don't. It has been stated that a water spritz (when needed) will add a little cutting action, as it probably delays the compound from breaking down.
l33
New member
vdog0531 said:
The key is to get the rpm's all the way then pick up the polish "quickly". Not like you buffing over an area and take your time, but move over the polish at double the speed you normally would. Its not really an exact science, i just tilt it slightly and run it over quickly and continue polishing.
Once you get the hang of it, it almost eliminates splatter. IMO spreading out the polish will only lead to splatter.
The polish should begin to flash pretty quickly when the panel is warm. If you find the panel is beginning to heat up, you are probably using too much polish or the polish doesn't work well with the rotary.
on my nissan i had factory/dealer swirls all over it that would not go away. I spent a week learning and trying different products. I finally realized that I wasn't letting the product work long enough. I would use too much product, run it back and forth for a while, and then stop and wipe it all off with a towel. I was getting zero results. I tried using less product, and working it in a smaller section, and when it started to dry I back off on the pressure but still work the section until the product almost disappeared. That was the key, suddenly the products worked and the swirls disappeared. I hadn't changed anything except my technique. Lately i've been paying more attention to how much polish I apply and noticed that the less I use, the better it works. Maybe it lets the pad work more, maybe the paint gets warmer, I dont know but on my nissan paint thats what it takes.
Joe
Joe