Swirl and Hologram CHALLENGE

I

imported_dpeezy415

New member
Here's the setup:



After all of the polishing that I did a few weeks ago, and after the oils left from #80 are all but gone, I have a bunch of swirls and holograms reappearing.



Here was my process 2 days after paint:



1) Wetsand using 2000 Meguiar's Unigrit Sandpaper

2) Compound with #84 Compound Power Cleaner via

Dewalt 849 and Megs burgandy pad

3) Polish with #83 DACP and a Megs burgandy pad

4) Remove hazing and swirls from DACP with #9 Swirl Remover and a Propel green pad

5) Finish with #80 Speed Glaze and a Propel Blue via PC.



I'm 97.5% sure (I was a statistics minor in college) that the problem lies between steps 3 and 4. The Propel Green and #9 @ 1000rpm was not enough to remove the effects of #83 and the burgandy pad @ 1600.



So my question is, what would you guys use to remove the rotary induced holograms and swirls? And then to seal?



:nixweiss



Here are your choices:



Machine: Dewalt 849 or PC7336 (and at what speed)

Polishes: PB SSR 1 2.5 and/or 3 (Don't have enough of the Megs stuff left over)

Pads: Megs burgandy, Sonus orange, Propel Green or Propel blue

Paint cleaner: AIO or VM

Seal: EX or EX-P

Wax: Natty's (have others but wanna go all PB)



Here's your test vehicle:

20143v2_3qtrshot2.jpg




I'm considering going with 2.5 and the orange pad then 1 and a propel green all via PC



or



If I have a helper, 2.5 and the green via rotary at 1400 followed by 1 and a green via PC



then



AIO/EX/Natty's





It's school all over again!!!



Thanks for the input... :xyxthumbs
 
3) Polish with #83 DACP and a Megs burgandy pad

4) Remove hazing and swirls from DACP with #9 Swirl Remover and a Propel green pad

5) Finish with #80 Speed Glaze and a Propel Blue via PC.



I believe your problem lies in steps 4 and 5. #9 Swirl Remover, despite the name, fills swirls instead of removing them.



Try using the Speed Glaze with a polishing pad. If that doesn't work, try using DACP with a polishing pad. Then follow it up with the Speed Glaze, again with a polishing pad.



You probably won't need the #9 at all.
 
Even though I haven't used the SSR line, I'd use that rather than go back to #80. Especiallly since you're almost out of Meg's stuff. I like #80 but with the alcolhol wipes, etc. you'd have to do to check your *actual* progress it'd be a hassle, and #80 is sort mild for what you're dealing with. I'd buy more #80, but I'd use SSR stuff to fix the holograms/swirls.



I'd fix the problems with a PC, the rotary is what caused them. While it would be nice to master the rotary and be able to use it without any holograms, for now I'd just want to solve the problem without taking off more paint than necessary. But yeah, it sounds like you made too big a jump, #83/cutting to #9/polishing is quite a leap. And all those filler/oil-rich products make it hard to know how things are really gonna turn out.



I would *not* use the Meg's burgundy, use a light cutting or a polishing pad (sorry, not that familiar with the ones you listed). I don't think you'll need the SSR 3, but the SSR 2.5 sounds about right. Use speed 6. Check your progress as you go and do one area until you get it the way you want it.
 
2.5 on the PC with a polishing pad (green will be fine) take your time and then proceed however you wish. IMO, the holograms will be gone after this.
 
I agree with the PC route for hologram, hazing removal :up



I like to use a product without fillers. 3M PIII MG is one of the best for tackling rotary hiccups, but in your case, I'd stick with the SSR line with a polishing pad.



Try the SSR 1 first on speeds 5 / 6. Go slow with some pressure and allow the product to break down and polish and then ease up and use the weight of the machine to burnish the surface. Work it long enough so it works but not too long where it's totally dry and you cause more marring from the pad. If that doesn't cut it, bump up to the 2.5 as that will definately work.



You mentioned about finishing off the surface after polishing. Given your choices after you're satisified you've removed the defects, I'd then go VM (do whole car, go back and wipe), EXP (let sit and cure), Nattys and apply Natty's again 24 hours later.



Those final steps after polishing will look KILLER on red :xyxthumbs



Good luck.
 
What is sounds like to me is you didn't get the swirling out you want to get out and the oils in #80 or the Propel Blue hid the swirls and when the stuff wore off, the swirls reappeared



#83 should be a applied with their softer pads or you'll get marring and maybe more swirls, it's a fairly strong polish. #9 is a waste of time, it's not going to make a difference and neither will #80 which is milder than #83. Just repolish with #83 until it' swirl free and then wax over that.
 
I think you are using way too many products and steps. I wetsanded some pinstripes off a Harley using 1300 Grit paper. I removed the sanding marks with HI-Temp's Heavy Cut leveler via rotary. I followed that with Hi-Temp's Light Cut leveler. Finish was flawless after those two buffing steps.
 
You say you are holograming the paint also? It might be the speed in which you make passes using the rotary or the pad/ product combo. I'd try hitting it with the lightest pad you have and least abrasive product to remove the defects that are reappearing. This is using a rotary of course. If not hit it with ssr 1.5 and a light pad on the dual action and see what you can do.
 
If you have removed all the wetsanding marks with the prior steps and Its only compounding mark removal/haze and minor swirl marks Id try this.



On rotary



PB 2.5, Propel Blue Rotary 1200-1500

PB (level lower than 2.5) Propel Blue Rotary 1000-1200

PB (Same as Above) Propel Blue, PC



That should finish your prep work and bring it up like glass ready for protection. I would use Menzerna but If you take your time and let the product break down you should get great results.



Regards

Tony
 
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