Strongest Compound is???

rexspeedmaster said:
For all these compounds or for correcting wetsanding marks can I use a PC random orbit polisher or is a rotary required? Thanks.
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a rotary will produce better results but a PC can work
 
David Fermani said:
That's the strongest I've used and I avoid it at all costs!!! :shocked
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His question was "the strongest". So 3M HC is from my experience the strongest. Would I recommend to use by an inexperienced person. No!:heelclick
 
Ok. I am going to pick up a PC and since i am a novice i will stay away from the 3M HC. I will probably get the OHC and the XMT#4. I will try one and if it doesnt work try the other. I will report back as to how they did with some pics. I guess i will try it with an edge orange pad first and then move to the yellow cutting pad if it doenst come out?
 
rexspeedmaster said:
Ok. I am going to pick up a PC and since i am a novice i will stay away from the 3M HC. I will probably get the OHC and the XMT#4. I will try one and if it doesnt work try the other. I will report back as to how they did with some pics. I guess i will try it with an edge orange pad first and then move to the yellow cutting pad if it doenst come out?
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I really think you should start out with a less abrasive pad/polish

first this is always the best way to start



I see that you do not even have a PC yet so how do you know

that you need such a abrasive pad/polish?
 
blkZ28Conv said:
His question was "the strongest". So 3M HC is from my experience the strongest. Would I recommend to use by an inexperienced person. No!:heelclick
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I agree with you. This stuff in the hands of some pros even scares me. In fact, most body shops don't even bring this stuff out to take out 1500 grit sand scratches so that tells you something.
 
BigJimZ28 said:
I really think you should start out with a less abrasive pad/polish

first this is always the best way to start



I see that you do not even have a PC yet so how do you know

that you need such a abrasive pad/polish?
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Yea i will prob try an orange cutting pad with something like XMT 2 or 3 or poorboys SSR 2 or 2.5, however i have friends who detail who said that there is no way that anything short of a heavy compound will take out my scratches.
 
rexspeedmaster said:
..i have friends who detail who said that there is no way that anything short of a heavy compound will take out my scratches.
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My painter saw my M3 and told me I oughta wetsand it aggressively or at *least* use a wool cutting pad, but I'm doing, uhm, *fairly* well with just the rotary/orange/H-T EC. Easy for other people to tell us to jump off the deep end ;)
 
Accumulator said:
My painter saw my M3 and told me I oughta wetsand it aggressively or at *least* use a wool cutting pad, but I'm doing, uhm, *fairly* well with just the rotary/orange/H-T EC. Easy for other people to tell us to jump off the deep end ;)
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go for the wool- it's loose fibers will help smooth the edges of etching that a foam pad won't ever touch-they won't totally disapear but they will be improved upon
 
wannafbody said:
go for the wool..
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Yeah, I know I oughta.... :o I'm stubborn I guess, I have all these cutting pads for the rotary that I'll probably never need again and I just have a (stupid) grudge against going off any buying *anything* for this job. So I waste time with the foam, and whine about the job, instead of getting it done.



Heh heh, I should've just left the seller's glaze on it, got through the mechanical work, and sent it off to the painter. Hindsight being 20/20 and all that...
 
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