SSR2.5 Question

dchu1975

New member
I have recently purchased a few SSR products which include 2.5 I have read many people saying they got hazing after SSR2.5 How can I prevent this? It sounds like most hazing is caused by not allowing the product to fully break down. If hazing does occur, what shoudl I do? Go over again with 2.5 and white pad? Or 2 with white pad? Or can I do 1 with white pad? Thanks.
 
If your paint has medium to heavy swirls, and other defects then using ssr2.5 is the way to go.

Heres how I would do it.

1. ssr2.5 with a lake country green pad(work product into paint until the pad is not moist with product)
2. ssr2.5 agine but us a lake country black pad( You might have to do that twice)
3. ssr1 with a blue pad
4. put a sealer on next by hand
5. some sort of wax by hand
 
dchu1975 said:
I have recently purchased a few SSR products which include 2.5 I have read many people saying they got hazing after SSR2.5 How can I prevent this? It sounds like most hazing is caused by not allowing the product to fully break down. If hazing does occur, what shoudl I do? Go over again with 2.5 and white pad? Or 2 with white pad? Or can I do 1 with white pad? Thanks.


Work the 2.5 long enough and you won't have hazing . If you do get it just clean up with 1.
 
I don't understand "hazing". It isn't a solvent, and if you get all the product off there should be none left. Is this hazing the damage to clear coat?
 
PEI Detail said:
I don't understand "hazing". It isn't a solvent, and if you get all the product off there should be none left. Is this hazing the damage to clear coat?

Yeah the hazing is from not working the product in enough . With a PC its good to run 2.5 until its all gone . A rotary can break down 2.5 faster with its heat while the PC cant . So just work the 2.5 in good and you'll get great results.

I've gone from 2.5 right to a last step with awesome results. Take your time with it . A PC on 5k or 6k w/ 2.5 isn't going to hurt your clear or burn your paint ..Be patient and work it in . Do it right and you won't need to do multiple steps..
 
dchu1975 said:
I have recently purchased a few SSR products which include 2.5 I have read many people saying they got hazing after SSR2.5 How can I prevent this? It sounds like most hazing is caused by not allowing the product to fully break down. If hazing does occur, what shoudl I do? Go over again with 2.5 and white pad? Or 2 with white pad? Or can I do 1 with white pad? Thanks.


Just picked up another gallon of ssr 2.5 during the anniversary sale.

Let me say this you can get hazing despite your best efforts at working the product fully with a PC. It can be especially visible on darker colors under certain lighting conditions. I spread SSR 2.5 at 4-5 and then crank it up to 6 and work it very slowly with heavy pressure on tough blemishes and lighter pressure on moderate swirls and oxidation. I find 2 or 3 passes should do it and the product breaks down and "disappears". This product will also dust, but the results are worth it. The level of dusting is dependent on the cleanliness of your pad, temperature and humidity.

The hazing is easily eliminated by following up with a light polish or cleaner. I generally use Klasse AIO for this. This followup step with AIO is at 5 (moderate pressure) and a white pad. I definetly recommend a follow up step because you may not see any hazing depending on the light but it's darn near impossible to not get any areas that have minor hazing.

I find the followup step and buffing it off with a towel cleans up the 2.5 dust also. So it's kinda of like a double benefit of removing any hazing and dust left by 2.5.

Use 2.5 to remove tough swirls and blemishes, but take a few extra minutes to follow with a light polish or cleaner such as AIO or one of the Poorboys light cut polishes or cleaners.

After your done with 2.5 the real hard time consuming work is over, one extra step with a light polish or cleaner will improve results towards reaching perfection and not take much time. :beer_smil
 
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