so my plan is to get SSR1 and SSR2.5 .. is there any point in me getting Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze ? will it make a difference or anything? cause i can get all 3 together at a nice deal but not sure if i need the glaze (dont know if this matters but im also getting Nattys paste wax but thats a seperate deal)
SSR help
- Thread starter zaink
- Start date
imported_COBRyan
New member
You will be fine with just the 2.5 and 1. A lot of times I just use the 2.5 by itself and don't even need the SSR1.
White95Max
New member
Same here. 2.5 can leave an LSP-ready finish most of the time.
A-Spec119
Yeah...I buffed her
I like to use menzerna finsihing touch glaze over ssr 2.5 even though its pretty LSP ready. If you just need SSR 1 in the first place, then you won't need anything to prep for LSP
Interesting, gbackus. Are you implying 2.5 leaves something behind , like fillers or gloss enhancers?
I'd like to know what pad people are using when they one-step SSR 2.5, a polishing pad perhaps? I've always used a light cutting pad for SSR2.5. It doesn't look bad at all; but a second round with SSR1 and a green pad always gives a noticeable improvement for me.
Mikeman out.
I'd like to know what pad people are using when they one-step SSR 2.5, a polishing pad perhaps? I've always used a light cutting pad for SSR2.5. It doesn't look bad at all; but a second round with SSR1 and a green pad always gives a noticeable improvement for me.
Mikeman out.
White95Max
New member
gbackus said:
I've used AIO after 2.5 and wasn't surprised by any micromarring. Haven't done an alcohol wipe though. SSR2.5 with a polishing pad has always left a great finish for me.
Mikeman said:
I had buffed out the hood of an A4(dolphin grey) that had been repainted about 4 months back, it had sand sanding scratches and really bad holograms. I first used 2.5 with the rotary and an LC polishing pad at 1500 rpms, then a PC at 5 with another polishing pad. I then finished with 26. The finish looked pretty close to flawless. Now, this is a car that I see EVERYDAY, and that I wash once a week, and with exception to repainted hood and a front fender(car was hit when it was 11 days old), and that I've cared for since new. It does however, sit outside 24/7, so anything applied to the car recieves excelerated wear. About 2-2.5 months later, not only were all the buffer holograms back, but they were this nasty HAZE all over the surface. I rebuffed with cerious and a rotary, problem solved. I decided to test on my own car(true blue), with both the rotary buffer and PC in two different sections. The results of the alcohol wipe revealed the same thing on both sides, almost perfect ready for LSP surface before, and a nasty haze(rotary holograms on the side) after the wipedown. I tried a third section with 2.5 and the rotary at 1500, and followed by AI clearcoat polish at 1200 rpm. I was left with a flawless finish, even after the alcohol wipe. I believe someone did a similar test and actually document his results by camera. I believe the post is called "SSR2.5 vs. Menzerna IP" or something like that. His results mirror my own exactly(the nasty haze revealed by the alcohol wipe down after using 2.5).
imported_COBRyan
New member
White95Max said:
Same here. I actually used a light cut pad with the SSR2.5 last weekend and it was good enough without the SSR1 and a polishing pad. Of course if my cars were dark colored, I would definitely go for the SSR1, but I don't see the need on my light colored paints.
As far as using an alcohol wipe, I never felt the need because there were no swirls for months, so they never seemed to just re-appear after a few washes. If that was the case, I would just go back to DACP or something else lol.
I found and read that thread completely. Here's my theory on what happened:
I think the SSR 2.5 was not worked long enough. When the polish was buffed off, partially worked polish remained in the unremoved scratches. When the surface was deep cleaned with alcohol the marring appeared.
If the SSR 2.5 would have been worked long enough, minute polish remnants imbedded in any remaining swirls would have been thoroughly removed by the buffing towel. This would have revealed that more polishing was needed.
IOW, partially worked SSR2.5 will tend to fill swirls because it is not as easily removed as thoroughly worked SSR 2.5 The type of towel used to remove the polish, and the thoroughness of the removal job may aggravate the filling tendencies of partially worked SSR 2.5. Just a theory.
Mikeman out
I think the SSR 2.5 was not worked long enough. When the polish was buffed off, partially worked polish remained in the unremoved scratches. When the surface was deep cleaned with alcohol the marring appeared.
If the SSR 2.5 would have been worked long enough, minute polish remnants imbedded in any remaining swirls would have been thoroughly removed by the buffing towel. This would have revealed that more polishing was needed.
IOW, partially worked SSR2.5 will tend to fill swirls because it is not as easily removed as thoroughly worked SSR 2.5 The type of towel used to remove the polish, and the thoroughness of the removal job may aggravate the filling tendencies of partially worked SSR 2.5. Just a theory.
Mikeman out
FN New Guy
New member
2.5 Is my go to polish. I skip the 1 often. 1 is still important to have around.
imported_COBRyan
New member
Great theory Mikeman. I have used both a PC and rotary with the SSR2.5 and noticed that it breaks down incredibly quick for a somewhat aggressive polish. DACP for example, breaks down rather slowly in comparison, especially with a PC. SSR2.5 will break down pretty quickly with a PC and cutting pad on speed 5. In fact, it breaks down so quick that some people may be inclined to wipe up a little too quickly! I always let it work a little while longer even after it seems to be completely clean on the paint. With that method I have never had any problems with the swirls coming back. With that said, I prefer SSR2.5 when using the PC, but when I need the power of the rotary, I much prefer DACP and the longer working time it provides. Of course, Optimum Polish is a whole different story!
a.k.a. Patrick
New member
I like to follow up with Opt polish......I think it brightens the refelection somewhat......
SpoiledMan
New member
I have a theory too. Whenever you wipe a polish away it should reveal the surface that is under it WITHOUT hiding anything. You shouldn't have to guess if you've worked it long enough to do its job. Try wiping Menzerna PG before it's broken down and see what happens. Broken down or not, it will reveal the true surface that remains.
An alcohol wipe is an added step that shouldn't have to be if the product is doing for you what it should be doing and part of that is making your job *easier.*
An alcohol wipe is an added step that shouldn't have to be if the product is doing for you what it should be doing and part of that is making your job *easier.*
imported_COBRyan
New member
The closest thing I have to an alcohol test would be AIO. I don't like to carry alcohol just for one reason. But I'm satisfied with the SSR2.5 so I have no reason to question how it does what it does. But like I said, my results over time do not indicate it uses fillers.
Every polish has its personality, quirks, and characteristics. I think an SSR2.5 characteristic is that it needs to be worked thoroughly or it tends to fill swirls. I'll be doing alcohol wipedowns with SSR2.5 tomorrow evening out of curiosity. If I don't find evidence of a filling tendency after several attempts, I'll consider it "case closed" and go back to my normal polishing routine. I'll be working the SSR2.5 thoroughly, just as I always do.
Mikeman out.
Mikeman out.