SSR 2.5 to LSP?

C

CharlesW

The Rainmaker
After several searches and lots of reading I have decided:
1. You may need to use another less aggressive polish after the SSR 2.5
2. You may not need to use another less aggressive polish after the SSR 2.5
3. The only thing that remains a constant is that different users have different opinions. Imagine that:)

When I was using Meguiar's #83 DACP, I could work it to the point where the finish was ready for my Klasse AIO/UPP.
Since SSR 2.5 is often compared to DACP in abrasive level, I think I can do the same with it.
It is about time for my Spring swirl removal to occur and I want to be sure I have the products on hand that I need to complete the process.
How about some more comments on going from SSR 2.5 to the Klasse AIO/UPP.

I also have Poorboy's PwC, Poorboy's Pro Polish, 4 Star UPC, S100 SEPC on hand if a mild cleaner polish would be needed.
If a step down polish other than those is needed after the SSR 2.5, I want to order it before I start the job.

Charles
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I guess it would depend on your paint, color of the paint, and technique. Some paint just doesn't finish as well and you need to use a finishing polish. Black and other dark colors are obviously less forgiving and need a lighter polish. I don't think this is going to be a big problem Charles. Do your SSR 2.5 and see what you get. If you feel you are able to go to AIO with out a finishing polish than great. If not than use a lighter polish and then go to AIO. No matter what responses you get in this thread it's going to come down to the results you actually get when you do the work.
 
Anthony A said:
I guess it would depend on your paint, color of the paint, and technique. Some paint just doesn't finish as well and you need to use a finishing polish. Black and other dark colors are obviously less forgiving and need a lighter polish. I don't think this is going to be a big problem Charles. Do your SSR 2.5 and see what you get. If you feel you are able to go to AIO with out a finishing polish than great. If not than use a lighter polish and then go to AIO. No matter what responses you get in this thread it's going to come down to the results you actually get when you do the work.
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Good enough advice, but I'm not going to be real happy to find I need another product that I don't have.
I did read where several people use the SSR 2.5 with a finishing pad after using SSR 2.5 with a polishing pad. Obviously, another alternative.
More comments welcomed.
(I thought maybe I might get Steve to make a suggestion or two:))

Charles
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Charles I've never seen people use a finishing pad with SSR2.5, but I do recommend using a polishing pad if you have used a cutting pad previously. Again as Anthony eluded to, it really does come down to so many variables as paint and technique. I think it's mostly technique :) Pad choice and pad type(mfg.) have also been an observation of mine that varies results. With the products you currently have, yes the AIO or the UPC would be fine as a finishing polish, I've not read enough about the s100 to give an opinion.
 
Poorboy said:
Charles I've never seen people use a finishing pad with SSR2.5, but I do recommend using a polishing pad if you have used a cutting pad previously. Again as Anthony eluded to, it really does come down to so many variables as paint and technique. I think it's mostly technique :) Pad choice and pad type(mfg.) have also been an observation of mine that varies results. With the products you currently have, yes the AIO or the UPC would be fine as a finishing polish, I've not read enough about the s100 to give an opinion.
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Thanks for your comments.
The use of a finishing pad was mentioned in one of the threads I found while doing my original search.
Since I don't own pads more aggressive than a polishing pad, it would seem that I should be good to go. I have both Meguiar's and Lake Country polishing pads. (Many thanks to cwcad for the LC pad), and here again, based on what I found in my searching, I think I will try the LC polishing pad with the 2.5.
FWIW, I used a Meg's polishing pad with the DACP and had good luck with the paint being ready for the AIO after just the DACP.

Thanks for the replies so far.

Charles
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I have gone straight to an LSP many times with 2.5. If you work it long enough, it will perfect the paint enough to go to a wax. But it depends on many things including your technique, paint condition, the stuff Anthony and Steve mentioned. Given that you've kept your car up to Detail City standards, I don't think you'll have a problem going to your LSP after 2.5.
 
Porkanbeans said:
I Given that you've kept your car up to Detail City standards, I don't think you'll have a problem going to your LSP after 2.5.
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I'm wondering if Charles even needs to get as aggressive as 2.5? If his car is maintained as well as I think it is 2.5 might be over kill.
 
Anthony A said:
I'm wondering if Charles even needs to get as aggressive as 2.5? If his car is maintained as well as I think it is 2.5 might be over kill.
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Interesting thought. I ordered the 2.5 during PB's scratch & dent sale based in part on the product description and use.
In the past, Meguiar's #9 has been the product I used for the entire vehicle and the #83 DACP was just for the few areas that it took forever to correct with #9.
Since it has worked good in the past, maybe I should just pick up another bottle of #9 locally and only use the SSR 2.5 in areas that don't clean up with the #9.
I'm one that is always saying, "Don't mess with what works", and here I am messing with a procedure and products that has worked pretty good for quite some time.

Charles
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Anthony A said:
I'm wondering if Charles even needs to get as aggressive as 2.5? If his car is maintained as well as I think it is 2.5 might be over kill.
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I was thinking the same thing. 2.5 will get out some pretty bad stuff, so it's easy to think that Charles wouldn't need something so aggressive. If I were you, Charles, I'd still try 2.5 anyway just to get familiar with it. It won't hurt to try.
 
Well you know that using the least abrasive method to get the job done is the way to go. I am sure 2.5 will do the job but might be much more than you need. Since Megs #83 was what you used to use for the difficult spots and 2.5 is similar in cut to #83 it makes sense to use 2.5 only were needed.
 
I have never needed a finishing polish after using SSR2.5 with a polishing pad. With a light cutting or cutting pad, it is needed (in my experiences).
 
I much prefer working with SSR1 myself. Lots of times I don't follow 2.5 with something, but very seldom on a full job. If I'm buffing a bumper only, or scratch repair, it depends on the case.
 
First off, thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Right now, I'm leaning towards using Meg's #9 just as I have in the past and any areas that need more attention would get the SSR 2.5 treatment. If needed, the 2.5 could be followed by the #9.
OK, now that I have my vehicles taken care of, how about helping me with my thinking?
This won't be as easy.:)

My reason for using SSR 2.5 only was because it seemed to me that using a more abrasive product for a short time was very similar to using a less abrasive product for a longer time. Does that make any sense?
My thought was that a small amount of 2.5 used just enough remove the marring would remove about the same amount of clear as using more #9 and having to work it longer. You need to remove the same amount of paint to level out any flaws no matter how you do it, don't you?
So, I figured, one product, one pad, one time polishing. Hey, I like easy.:)

Since most of you don't agree with that line of thought, it makes me think I just might be wrong.

Charles
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:horse :horse :horse
Just thought of another question.
If I were to use one of Poorboy's less abrasive SSR's. should it be SSR1 or SSR2.
Meg's #9 will usually handle 95%+ of my paint flaws so would SSR2 or SSR1 be closer to the Meg's #9?
I guess I thought SSR1 would be about like 4 Star UPC which I already have.
All products would be used with a polishing pad.

Charles
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I also was thinking that SSR2.5 might be a bit extreme.
I have tried UPC so I can't comment on it, But SSR1 would clean up anything that might be left over from the SSR2.5.
Is UPC a chemical or a abrasive cleaner?

If all else fails just get the #9 which you know and are happy with :yes:

JMHO
"J"
 
Before purchasing another bottle of #9, I would suggest trying Pro Polish or PwC since you already have those products available. Either PP or PwC could serve as a step down polish after SSR2.5.

BTW - My opinion is that #9 is in between SSR1 and SSR2 in terms of aggressiveness. I don't consider SSR2.5 to be too strong for well maintained vehicles. Used with a polishing pad and a speed of 5+, I have been able to go right to LSPs. I was never able to do that with DACP.
 
awd330 said:
BTW - My opinion is that #9 is in between SSR1 and SSR2 in terms of aggressiveness. I don't consider SSR2.5 to be too strong for well maintained vehicles. Used with a polishing pad and a speed of 5+, I have been able to go right to LSPs.
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The problem is that even though 2.5 finished well enough to go right to a LSP you probably removed more paint than needed on a well maintained car.
 
CharlesW said:
F

My reason for using SSR 2.5 only was because it seemed to me that using a more abrasive product for a short time was very similar to using a less abrasive product for a longer time. Does that make any sense?
My thought was that a small amount of 2.5 used just enough remove the marring would remove about the same amount of clear as using more #9 and having to work it longer. You need to remove the same amount of paint to level out any flaws no matter how you do it, don't you?
So, I figured, one product, one pad, one time polishing. Hey, I like easy.:)

Since most of you don't agree with that line of thought, it makes me think I just might be wrong.

Charles
wavey.gif
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The problem I see with this line of thinking is that if you used 2.5 and worked it for a shorter time it wouldn't finish properly. Than you would need to do another step anyway. The 2.5 needs to be worked and broken down.
 
Anthony A said:
The problem is that even though 2.5 finished well enough to go right to a LSP you probably removed more paint than needed on a well maintained car.
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Even well maintained daily drivers will eventually be hit with some heavy contaminants or suffer a parking lot scrape which will warrant a more aggressive approach. That's just an unfortunate fact of life. However, it may not be necessary to use a stronger product on every panel. I certainly don't use SSR2.5 every time I polish, but I'm not afraid to use it when it's needed.
 
awd330 said:
Even well maintained daily drivers will eventually be hit with some heavy contaminants or suffer a parking lot scrape which will warrant a more aggressive approach. That's just an unfortunate fact of life. However, it may not be necessary to use a stronger product on every panel. I certainly don't use SSR2.5 every time I polish, but I'm not afraid to use it when it's needed.
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I agree. Charles was talking about doing his whole car with 2.5 though. Over kill if it's in good shape.
 
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