Spray waxes vs the stuff in tins?

I`m not convinced that a paste wax leaves behind more protection. Yes it may apply thicker. However, after you buff away all the carrier oils and by products. Is the protection film left behind any thicker? I`m not sold. So I have primarily switched to sprays. Except for FK 1000p. I still use this product for creation applications.
 
Tc99m said:
I`m not convinced that a paste wax leaves behind more protection. Yes it may apply thicker. However, after you buffy away all the carrier oils and by products. Is the protection film left behind any thicker? I`m not sold. So I have primarily switched to sprays. Except for FK 1000p. I still use this product for creation applications.
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I agree on this. Work smarter not harder. I think with all the great available spray waxes currently out, a paste wax will not mean better protection.
 
bennylava said:
..And how about looks? Part of the reason you wax a car is good looks..
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Heh heh, maybe some people, but it`d have to be something pretty significant for me to care at all...and those cases are few and far between.

And yeah, that`s very different from how I viewed it years ago.
 
Although I have never tried a spray wax as a stand alone LSP, I cannot comment on durability/protection alone, however, I would think that it may not be as good as a "tin" LSP. I am partial to the BFWD spray wax when drying or in between full on LSP waxes/sealants just as a charger for the "tin" LSP due to it`s ability to recharge your base protectant and works very well in the sun without any "streaking". It`s easy on/easy off.
 
Tc99m said:
I`m not convinced that a paste wax leaves behind more protection. Yes it may apply thicker. However, after you buff away all the carrier oils and by products. Is the protection film left behind any thicker? I`m not sold. So I have primarily switched to sprays. Except for FK 1000p. I still use this product for creation applications.
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Buff away... hmm.

I`m no pro detailer like most of you here, but I would assume that the coating left by a paste would have to be thicker if you just simply wiped it off with the appropriate microfiber cloth. In my mind, you wouldn`t want to buff anything away. You`d apply it as normal, and wipe off the haze, leaving the "finished product" to sit on top of the clear and do its job. Am I missing an important step here? If am I am not, then it would seem that a paste would have to by nature, leave a somewhat thicker barrier than a liquid. Obviously you`d never be able to discern this difference with the naked eye. But when it comes to all those small abrasions the car is getting hit with when its flying down the highway, thicker would have to be better. Or at least last longer as it would take longer to chip away.
 
I seriously doubt a spray product will out last, out shine or out protect Collinite #845 or #476. These are paste / liquid (respectively). I`m at 9 months and counting from my initial double application of #476. I`m surprised neither has been mentioned here so far.

I AM curios about the McKee’s 37 Trademark Extender Spray Wax...has any user of this also used Menzerna Endless Shine? How do they compare?

My current "topper" is the Menzerna; it does tend to streak but that is minimized if you use a microfiber with a longer nap than typically one would use. I love the slick, silky feel it leaves, its beading properties and its durability (for a spray).

If the McKees performs as well, but streaks less, I`d be interested in changing.

Any thoughts?






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I like Blackfire Carnauba Spray Wax. It is not as durable as many of the durable pastes but it is works longer than one may think.
 
bennylava said:
Buff away... hmm.

I`m no pro detailer like most of you here, but I would assume that the coating left by a paste would have to be thicker if you just simply wiped it off with the appropriate microfiber cloth. In my mind, you wouldn`t want to buff anything away. You`d apply it as normal, and wipe off the haze, leaving the "finished product" to sit on top of the clear and do its job. Am I missing an important step here? If am I am not, then it would seem that a paste would have to by nature, leave a somewhat thicker barrier than a liquid. Obviously you`d never be able to discern this difference with the naked eye. But when it comes to all those small abrasions the car is getting hit with when its flying down the highway, thicker would have to be better. Or at least last longer as it would take longer to chip away.
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It depends on the product for sure. A normal paste wax bonds mostly to the surface imperfections, it is a physical bond, not chemical. So when you buff off, you are literally shearing away the top layer.

For those that don`t think a spray sealant can last, well, what about a spray coating? McKee`s 37 is like brain dead easy to apply, I`d say almost as easy as Opti-seal. Give it a few years and coatings will be as easy and goof proof to appy as something like OCW.
 
bennylava said:
Buff away... hmm.

. In my mind, you wouldn`t want to buff anything away. You`d apply it as normal, and wipe off the haze, leaving the "finished product" to sit on top of the clear and do its job.
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The haze is what I was referring to. Buff off / Wipe off tomayto / tomahto

I could be completely wrong. But I have gotten a good solid 2months out of some spray wax`s and some where gone in a week. The same could be said for some paste wax`s as well.

Dan mentioned spray coatings.

On my daily driver I have switched to a spray coating (Gyeon CanCoat). I`m 10+ months in and going strong. The lower panels are starting to show some loss. But 95% of the car is beading crazy beads. Gyeon claims greater than 6months (Durability: >6months / 10K km). I`m hoping for 12months. As far as 10K or 6.2miles I drive 73miles round trip and that hasn`t diminished the coating.
 
This thread didn`t go like I thought it would. There seems to be no clear cut answer as to whether or not sprays are inferior to the good paste waxes. I though for sure I`d get:

"Yeah right those gimmick sprays for lazy asses? Get your big boy britches on and get out there and so some work with a real wax!!"

lol
 
As I see it is if you only use wax pure carnuaba montan beewax it has no durability on it`s own. It`s for to get you a different and nice shine on your paint. You have to put in polymers and other chemicals in to the wax for get durability of it to Stacy on the paint. And these chemicals are the thing that can get your paint a little bit of protection to wash marrings etc. Spraywaxes is made for to top and extend the basecoat layer. Then the outcome of that is it`s working on wet surfeces so we found out that it`s works great to get some lubrication when drying. So compare paste wax to spraywax is`nt fair match. They would be compared to sealants and coatings instead IMO för the durability of them. Paste wax spraywax sealants and coatings are all different products that have their place on their own. It`s up to you to decide wich way to go with to protect your paint. Would it come out a high caulity carnuaba wax that lasted 2 years and is as easy to apply as a spraywax. That would be the end of paste waxes or would it. People like different looks and ceramic coatings has their glass reflective look and waxes has their wormth and glowing look. Then we can chose what we want. Chemicly it`s so far hard to get high % of wax to blend in to get longevity to it. A question I wonder about how would a spraywax with 2 months of longevity applyied 6 times a year be any difference in wash marring and daily drivers indused scratchings hold up to a paste wax as 476s applyied 1 time or 2 times. So you can see the difference in the protection of them.
 
SWETM said:
A question I wonder about how would a spraywax with 2 months of longevity applyied 6 times a year be any difference in wash marring and daily drivers indused scratchings hold up to a paste wax as 476s applyied 1 time or 2 times. So you can see the difference in the protection of them.
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I find no difference in wash-related marring between OCW and FK1000P, which I`d think is a pretty decent comparison between the two types of products.

BUT..that`s with *MY* wash technique, which regulars here know is awfully extreme. AND, the A8 doesn`t get all *that* awful between washes these days.

IMO one significant factor is how readily a LSP sheds contamination. The FK1000P, like (relatively fresh) Collinite, sheds dirt quite readily IME, so there`s little temptation to apply pressure while washing and less chance of residual dirt causing marring later (during drying, if you brush against the car, etc.). The OCW sheds contamination OK, but it`s not a strikingly obvious high-point like with the FK/Collinite.

As far as actual marring resistance, the only (conventional) LSP I`ve ever used that provided that is *HEAVILY* layered KSG, which I continue to use on glossy exterior plastics for just that reason. And the additional (relative) resistance is pretty minimal and would be easily overcome by somebody, say...washing by merely pressing a soapy wash mitt, worn as a glove, against a dirty surface and moving it a few inches under pressure.

Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
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