spot polishing?

A

AdrianStewart

New member
is spot polishing a bad idea? I've got a couple of minor scratches from who knows what, I'd like to just rub in some polish on those areas ...



I have washed/clayed/NXT tech wax'd the vehicle within the last 2 weeks ... I wasn't going to polish until the end of summer ... but the scratches are an eyesore to me!
 
There it goes again. Clay does NOT remove scratches. That should be my new signature. "Clay Is not the miracle drug for everything". Maybe I missed read, maybe you used clay to clean your paint and not to remove the scratches.



As far as spot polishing, there is no problem with that it's as common as....something...you should polish them out, not wipe on something that will cover them up, you will be more satisfied. Buffing them is quicker and produces better results.
 
1st time 2 weeks using the "preferred" method, 2 buckets wash ... clayed ... re-wash ... then put a coat of NXT!



BUT ... I'm noticing the scratches MORE now that I'm aware of the autopian method!



thanks, I will spot polish with the MEGs step 2
 
Step #2? Does it have a number like Mequiar's #7 or something like that? Have you removed scratches before, just trying to get an understanding of what you know.
 
Are you talking about deep crystal polish? The polish doens't have any bite and I'd be suprised if you could get the scratches out.
 
my concern is that I won't have the 5-6 hours for a few weeks to do a full detail, I have enough time to give it a good wash ... then I'd like to just spot polish without messing up the rest of the car!



it is megs crystal step 2
 
Anyway, a high speed buffer will heat up the paint allowing the finish to lay down better. Yes you can use a MF rag to polish out, will just take some time and you might cause some marring with it. If you end up marring the paint, then use some carnuba paste wax as the finishing glase. The scratch might have to be wetsanded out. An applicator will not work. You need to cause heating friction, this is what removes scratches. If your can feel the scratch with your finger nail it might be too deep.
 
Karma is when people vote on you on how you helped someone. It just let's others know how helpful you are, bad is bad help and good is good help.
 
I don't know how to vote for karma? ...

doesn't matter, as long as I can spot polish without f'n up the rest of the vehicle, I'll be happy
 
OK, to remove scratches by hand, one of the preferred methods is to use Mequiars Scratch-X. It's a lot of work, but it can be done, at least as long as the scratches are fairly mild.
 
heat up the paint, sure ... can an I polish in the sun by hand w/ the foam applicator!



I'm not going to rotary or high speed buff one area ... its not a key mark, just a little imperfection that I see, can't feel it when I rub my finger over it!
 
You should have no problem, don't use the foam applicator, it will not give you the texture you need like a MF rag. Doing it in the sun will be fine. Is the MG's #2 a scratch remover? If so, that should work or MG's #3 (not step #3)
 
AdrianStewart- You *can* spot polish, remove isolated scratches, etc. It's basically all I do on our vehicles 99% of the time.



You just rub the marred area with an abrasive polish until you've leveled the paint, like sanding a scratch out of a piece of wood using sandpaper.



Deep Crystal Step #2 won't do it, it's nonabrasive.



Scratch-X is the standard OTC answer for this and oughta work if you put the time and effort into it. I prefer products from 1Z and/or 3M but that's just personal preference. You use the abrasive product of your choice until the scratch is something you can live with. I generally use a MF for this, but others prefer foam, or even terry as it provides more cut. Then wax the area, going a ways beyond the part you polished so the new wax blends into what's already there.



No need for a high-speed buffer in most cases (I remove fingernail scratches from behind doorhandles by hand on hard Audi clear). No need for heat (I never work in the sun, only in a climate controlled shop) unless you're using a rotary-only product that *requires* heat to break down, so just use something that doesn't need that. All it takes is a lot of time and determination and a little common sense.



Gotta differentiate between Meguiar's Deep Crystal Line and their professional line. VERY different things...two products that were mentioned are the PRO line #2 and #3, which I'm familiar with:



Note Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner has recently been reformulated to work by hand/PC as well as by rotary. Make sure you get the *NEW* version if you're working by hand. It might be good for this job. #3 Machine Glaze is a nonabrasive "pure polish" (similar to #7/Deep Crystal #2) that's formulated so it won't dry out too fast when used by machine (works fine by hand too). Being nonabrasive it's not the product for this job IMO. For more info on Meguiar's products you might to toMeguiar's Online . It's easy to get mixed up with some of their professional products. If you don't know which Meg's product to use, maybe you oughta get your advice straight from them.
 
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