Spit Shining?

John,

WOW! Nice cars and even more impressive collection of carnaubas!!! Congrats!

Spit shining is about tiny amounts and tiny areas; going slowly but joyfully. However, it can work with a PC. Remember, you must use water, QD; a diluting agent to change the chemical properties of the paste while you wax. By hand you should use a dampened applicator/towel/cotton balls. Therefore, a dampened soft finishing pad will be good. You should hold the PC in one hand while the other is the sprayer hand. Apply a little carnauba to the pad, mist the surface and go! Use low OPMs, and spray water/QD liberally because you're working on a much bigger surface area. Keep misting/waxing (at least 3 times) until the carnauba disappears. Then you can stop and buff with a fine towel. DF will be good. A quality bonnet can work too, but while it is a lot thinner, it may saturate faster with the product. A healthy absorbency vs. waste ratio is important. Don't forget that many QDs contain alcohol, and it can too change the chemical properties of a wax. I'd go with chilled distilled water first. This way I can be sure that I actually spit shine the wax itself, and not the wax with a shine boosting QD/spray sealant or whatever. Let the wax do the work, and let the water do the work. A spray type product always enhances the shine, so what is true, honest spit shining? Good luck and chime back!
 
Bence said:
John,

WOW! Nice cars and even more impressive collection of carnaubas!!! Congrats!

Spit shining is about tiny amounts and tiny areas; going slowly but joyfully. However, it can work with a PC. Remember, you must use water, QD; a diluting agent to change the chemical properties of the paste while you wax. By hand you should use a dampened applicator/towel/cotton balls. Therefore, a dampened soft finishing pad will be good. You should hold the PC in one hand while the other is the sprayer hand. Apply a little carnauba to the pad, mist the surface and go! Use low OPMs, and spray water/QD liberally because you're working on a much bigger surface area. Keep misting/waxing (at least 3 times) until the carnauba disappears. Then you can stop and buff with a fine towel. DF will be good. A quality bonnet can work too, but while it is a lot thinner, it may saturate faster with the product. A healthy absorbency vs. waste ratio is important. Don't forget that many QDs contain alcohol, and it can too change the chemical properties of a wax. I'd go with chilled distilled water first. This way I can be sure that I actually spit shine the wax itself, and not the wax with a shine boosting QD/spray sealant or whatever. Let the wax do the work, and let the water do the work. A spray type product always enhances the shine, so what is true, honest spit shining? Good luck and chime back!
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Thanks for the compliments and information.

When spit shining leather it is recommend to apply a thicker layer of wax for the first coat and allow to dry for 5-10 minutes. Then start the buffing with a wet cloth and continue adding thin coats.

Here's How:
1. Spread a medium-thick layer of paste polish over the portion of the boot to be spit shined.

2. Allow it to dry for 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Wrap a soft, clean cloth around your index finger so that it is smooth (no wrinkles). Alternately, you can use a cotton ball. Dip your finger or the cotton ball into a container of water. The cloth/cotton should be wet, but not dripping.

4. Buff the dried polish (using a circular motion) with the wet cloth/cotton ball, until the wax starts to become shiney.

5. Still using the damp rag on your finger, apply a fine layer of polish in a circular motion and keep on rubbing lightly until a hazy shine develops.

6. Using the (now) damp cloth, or cotton ball, keep applying THIN coats of wax, buffing them with a small circular motion.

7. When the boot is highly glossed, use a clean dry soft cloth or a shining brush to give it a final buff.

Tips:
The reason to use a wet cloth is to stop the fine coats of polish sticking to the cloth and to encourage the polish to stick to the leather.

You want to keep on building up thin layers of wax until you have a completely smooth surface that gives the glossy shine.

After the first heavy coat of polish you must use small amounts of polish to build up the shine. If you use too much polish, it will dissolve the base you have already built up.

I know leather and a cars finish are entirely different. What would take place if you used this first heavy wax layer technique to start your cars spit shine proceedure?

Using a brand of wax that the manufacture recommends to fully dry to a haze before removal. Not a wipe on wipe off product. I understand that some waxes are extremely hard to remove if left on to long. I guess the water would help with the removal though. So it may not apply in this instance.

Why is it not necessary to start with a thick preliminary layer of dryed wax when spit shining a car?

It will be a few more weeks until I get down to preparing my cars for the fall/winter driving season. It's nice to live in AZ.

Thanks,
John
 
Bence said:
Yes, that's why I wrote the mist/wax/mist/wax/mist/buff sequence...

Other question: I tried with FK Pink Wax. To be honest: this wax is SOOO good that it doesn't really need spit shining. I stopped after 2 layers. But heck, I will try again...
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Bingo some one anwsered my question :bigups

thanks
 
Holy cow, what ever happened to your hood :rolling :beer
I could see 600hp from here :D

HELLROD037SM.jpg
 
John,

The Golden Rule with heavy carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, the dried Victorias are horrendous to remove...

Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
 
klnyc said:
Dag, Im off by 300hp :(
Whats the 1/4 mi on that baby? Low 6's??
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Low 6's?

I would say more in the area of an 'honest' 10 sec street car.

It doesn't see the strip. It is just used for getting the groceries. :shift

John
 
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