Spit Shining?

GregCavi

GregCavi

Pinnacle Detailing Owner
Hello everyone.

I have hear an awful lot about spit shining lately here on DC. I would have to say im a little bit confused on the process of this. Can anyone explain?

Thanks

Greg
 
I've heard two ways of doing it.

The first way is to remove your carnauba with a towel and then go over the car with a new towel and a QD of some kind.

The alternate way is to let the wax haze and then remove it by spraying it with the QD and then wiping.

In my opinion I would rather do the second method because it takes less time and fewer towels. The only problem with it is that you need to have a wax that you can leave on for an extended period of time, I tried this method on #16 and it was rather difficult to remove the wax. For WOWO waxes the first method listed works better because it allows you to actually remove the wax with some sort of ease.
 
I have read of several ways to do this and have tried a couple myself. There are probably threads here and at Autopia that address this topic.

The first method I tried wax applying Natty's to 3 coats of UPP...I divided a panel into 3-4 sections (depending on size) and applied a thin layer of Natty's to the first three sections, working in well. Then to section one, I sprayed a light mist of refrigerated distilled water and then another thin coat of Natty's. I then applied the first layer of wax to section #4, followed by water mist and second layer of wax on section #2. This method come from former military guys who had to spit shine their shoes. I had satisfactory results, but nothing so impressive that I felt it justified the time spent. It is a good way to get two coats of wax on the car at one time. The cold water spritz seems to set up the first layer of wax quickly. FK pink wax has been specifically recommended for this method, but I have never tried it personally.

The second method I tried was to apply a thrid layer of Natty's about a week after the method above to the entire car and let it dry to a haze and then remove by spraying a fine mist of S&G and buffing off with a plush MF. Now this was a result I really felt was worth the time and use of product. It added a deeper, wetter look to the finsih and added pop to the metallic flake on a Satin Silver CR-V. It also made wax removal quicker and essentially dust free. There is a recent post here or on Autopia by GSRStilez that show a dark silver car using this method with UPP removed with OCW. I'm afraid I don't have my digital camera right now to post any pictures myself and, tell the truth, I have never done it and would probably make a big mess of it.
 
mtwedt said:
The first method I tried wax applying Natty's to 3 coats of UPP...I divided a panel into 3-4 sections (depending on size) and applied a thin layer of Natty's to the first three sections, working in well. Then to section one, I sprayed a light mist of refrigerated distilled water and then another thin coat of Natty's. I then applied the first layer of wax to section #4, followed by water mist and second layer of wax on section #2. This method come from former military guys who had to spit shine their shoes. I had satisfactory results, but nothing so impressive that I felt it justified the time spent. It is a good way to get two coats of wax on the car at one time. The cold water spritz seems to set up the first layer of wax quickly. FK pink wax has been specifically recommended for this method, but I have never tried it personally.
Click to expand...


That's more or less how I do it. I've substitued the distilled water with chilled Crystal Mist at times also. Takes lots of time and is tedious. Not for the impatient at all.
 
I believe that TS is a WOWO wax. The first method where you remove the wax and then "spit shine" should produce better results.
 
tubafeak said:
I've heard two ways of doing it.

The first way is to remove your carnauba with a towel and then go over the car with a new towel and a QD of some kind.
Click to expand...


haha i didnt know there was a name for that....ive been doin that for a long time. somtimes when the wax dosnt come off that good or if i just feel up to it ill do this. it gets rid of any spots i miss with the towel the first time around.
 
Why do you have to refrigerate the qd or water?
Also, has anyone tried spit-shining with a liquid
wax?
 
usdm said:
Why do you have to refrigerate the qd or water?
Also, has anyone tried spit-shining with a liquid
wax?
Click to expand...

You refrigerate the spit shining liquid in order to have the wax set up quickly. To put it in perspective, think of candle wax. If you let it harden slowly it's soft, pliable, and cloudy looking. If you drop it into water it's quite a bit harder and less cloudy. Since you're looking for a hard and clear surface froma car wax the cold water makes sense, it amplifies the effect of the rapid hardening.

You can use a liquid wax to spit shine as long as it is a spray-type liquid wax. I would also NOT refrigerate it as this could cause the contents to separate or chemically change in a way that would make them useless.
 
Quote by mtwedt: FK pink wax has been specifically recommended for this method, but I have never tried it personally.
Click to expand...

No-no, it was not Finish Kare's Pink Wax! The pink wax that is made specifically for spit shining is Beauty Shine's #502 Pink Carnauba Paste Wax!

And the only method for true spit shining is mtwedt's FIRST method: spraying water/QD on the surface while waxing! Just see Nick T.'s methodology on this.
Spit shining is for deepening the look, by preventing the solvents to re-liquify and remove the previous layers. If you remove the hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. A high-solvent wax will remove the previous layer. You need water/QD (as it is up to 95% water) to neutralize the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears.
 
Ok so is this how it is done?

1. spread wax
2. after wax is spread, spray with cold water
3. buff off wax, and water until dissapeared

that it?

Greg
 
damped MF pad, apply a sparingly amount of wax, ( don't be tempted to apply more if it looks like it might not be enough) thoroughly work the wax spritzing it with the water as you go along, you need tiny droplets, no larger amount.

Work it section by section by section going back to the spot where you first started. When most of it disappears, and rest come to a nice haze, then buff.
 
Basically that's it. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
 
Can the spit shine technique be performed with a PC? Would it generate to much heat on low speed with light pressure?

I have some Beauty Shine Pink Carnauba Paste Wax (BKB Automotive Cosmetics, Inc.)

I have about 25 brands of other carnauba paste waxes to try. Will others work as well as the BKB pink?

What other brands would others recommend to try from the list below?

How about mixing layers?

How many layers of carnauba paste can be applied and still offer visual benefits?

I put together a collection in the last couple of weeks for fun. Most are listed below in no particular order.

Victoria Red

Pinnacle Souveran

Pinnacle Signature Series

Trade Secrets

BKB Automotive Cosmetics Pink Canauba

Gliptone GTO113

One Grand Blitz Wax

Zymol Vintage, Atlantique, Destiny, Concours

Swissol Smarged

P21S Concours

DP Max Wax

S100

Poorboy's Natty's Blue

Surluster Premium Paste Wax

Malm's Extreme Concentrate Carnauba Paste Wax

Soft99 Authentic Premium

Lusso Oro

Meguiar's #16

Carnauba Bay Paste

Chemical Guys XXX Hard Core Paste

Collinite #915 Marque D' Elegance

Harly Paste

Mark V Blue Carnauba Paste

Thanks,
John
 
No, it won't generate much heat. Although I haven't tried so many pastes, the three Victorias respond well to this method. The Beauty Shine would be perfect for it, but I think when you have sooo many jars, you should be the one who experiments day&night and report back. Theoretically each of them should work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of smthg is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
I'd try them all, with at least five layers, because some waxes continue improving their looks with even five or more coats, while others can stop @ 2 or 3. Spit shining can change much.
 
Anyone try out with Pinkwax yet?
Also, how come you guys spread wax 1st then spritz QD last? I thought suppose the other around? E.g. spray OCW then Meg16...no?
 
Bence said:
Basically that's it. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Click to expand...


thats the method ive used and read.
 
klnyc said:
Anyone try out with Pinkwax yet?
Also, how come you guys spread wax 1st then spritz QD last? I thought suppose the other around? E.g. spray OCW then Meg16...no?
Click to expand...


Yes, that's why I wrote the mist/wax/mist/wax/mist/buff sequence...

Other question: I tried with FK Pink Wax. To be honest: this wax is SOOO good that it doesn't really need spit shining. I stopped after 2 layers. But heck, I will try again...
 
Bence said:
No, it won't generate much heat. Although I haven't tried so many pastes, the three Victorias respond well to this method. The Beauty Shine would be perfect for it, but I think when you have sooo many jars, you should be the one who experiments day&night and report back. Theoretically each of them should work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of smthg is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again...
I'd try them all, with at least five layers, because some waxes continue improving their looks with even five or more coats, while others can stop @ 2 or 3. Spit shining can change much.
Click to expand...

"Remember, just removing the haze of smthg is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again..."

Please excuse all the questions. I am fairly new to this.

I have 2 PC's and a good supply of various pads and bonnets from different manufactures.

Would you recommend a pad or bonnet for wax application and spit shine buffing?
Should I change pad/bonnet often?

DF towel for light hand buffing step?

Could you give a detailed outline of the method you would use for a DA spit shine technique?

Also I have a fairly good supply of different manufactures QD's to experiment with. Chilled of course.

I will be trying this on a few of my cars.

Thanks,
John

OldsW-25NEWER033SM.jpg


HELLROD037SM.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top