Sometimes you just need a more agressive pad...

I really like surbuf pads! They cut very well and you don't have to use heavy pressure. I use surbuf/m105 on my metallic silver, and it's LSP ready if I chose. The micro marring is there, but you can't see it, even in direct sunlight. On darker colors micro-marring is noticeable from surbuf pads, but can be easily be removed with a finer pad/polish. I like working with low profile pads, generally speaking. The surbuf pads are extremely easy to clean while you're working. A couple strokes with a pad conditioning and they're as good as new. Can't say the same for a foam pad. However, a foam pad will last a lot longer than surbuf pads.
 
Since we're comparing the wool to the foam, what about the 4" megs heavy cut pads on a PC. I have a 7" for the rotary and it seems much harder than the LC yellow or orange. For the detailers that do use these, do you notice more cut and correcting ability than the LC, or is it more trouble than it's worth to try to polish down after using it. Little off base,but I just ordered some to compare to the LC line, and was wondering what your thoughts were. I rarely use the PC/Griots/Cyclo but there are cars that come in that are just calling for a PC if that makes sense.
 
Based on the above comments I think I go ahead and order some Surbufs AND some PFW's to see which one suits me best.

Anything else out there that might suit my needs for heavy cut?
 
On a severe swirl job I used Yellow LC pads and wore two of them down flat with very little results.
Then I tried the Surbuf pad with Meg105 and here are some thoughts...

This process can be messy.

1. Do not prime the surbuf pad.
2. Apply 4 "larger then pea sized" dots of M105 to the pad.
3. Work the polish into an 12x12" area without turning on your PC.
4. Spritz the surface with water.
5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency.
6. Turn on PC and work the polish till it appears to dry.
7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish.
....(What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface)
8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105 from the surface.
9. Inspect and repeat if needed.

What is a neat thing about this pad is that even if you don't know how to use a rotary you can use it to remove some pretty serious defects via DA random orbital.

Depedning on the hardness of the clear, you "might" be able to go right to M205 with a gray finishing pad via the KBM. Sometimes a middle step with M205/orange pad via KBM is required.

Do not be fooled into thinking that this pad cannot cause damage, because it certainly is capable of removing a lot of paint in a hurry!!! This pad can damage paint. Do not think of it as some foo-foo lightweight pad. Be very careful when buffing plastic panels, bumpers, side view mirrors, and other parts that may have been painted using flex agents.

Surbuf pads are designed specifically for use on random orbit sanders/polishers and probably would inflict some major damage if used with a rotary. They are not like traditional wool pads in any way. Probably as close as you can get to being an all out furry sanding disk. Use the Surbuf pad as you would any other foam pads, and the result is very similar to that of a WOOL pad on a ROTARY! The Surbuf pad is extremely easy to clean and doesn't smell like dead sheep.

The Surbuf pad does a great job and makes quick work of correcting severe and stubborn swirls and scratches.
From now on if it's more than the orange pad and M105 can do I'm reaching for the Surbuf pad.
IMHO this method will level paint as good as a rotary.
 
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