Sometimes you just need a more agressive pad...

I

imported_porta

New member
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum and know next to nothing about detailing stuff, so please excuse me if I sound like a total idiot.. =)



anyways, I bought my car about 2-3 months ago(93.5 Toyota Supra) and the paint job on there just plain sucks... according to the previous owner it was a $900 ghetto paint job.. I mean if you look closely you can see paint blobs on the bottom of the car, etc. But my main concern is that on some of the places of my car, the paint is peeling off a little(happens at the edges where the rubber linings are). Also the front bumper has little paint chips(not sure how to describe this but when my friends see it they think it's just bugs stuck on my bumper, but when you look at it closely it's little chipped spots where the paint is cracked). Is there anything I could do to these problems? Or is my only way out to burn a hole in my pocket for a new paint job? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. =)
 
find out where and when it was painted. Who did it and what kind of prep did they do? It might be covered under a warranty if it was repainted recently.
 
What happened to the car. A 93.5 isn't very old now days and shouldn't need to be repainted just yet. If it's a turbo and has low miles get it painted the way it should be painted and spend the $3000 - $4000. If not and you got a great deal just live with it. How long ago was it repainted?



Don't mistreat your supra like the previous owner. There was only 12,000 supras made between 93.5 - 98.
 
If the paint is peeling, it usually means that the painter did not properly prep the old paint before applying the new paint. This is bad news. It almost always means that the whole car will need to be sanded back down to the original paint, primered and repainted. You should expect to pay $2,000+ for a decent paint job. If you want to do a lot of the prep work yourself, you can bring this number down quite a bit. It is a nice car, so having a good paint job will help keep the value up.



db
 
TTSUPRA: Don't worry about me mistreating the supra, that will never happen. I've dreamed about a Supra for around four years now and now that I finally got my hands on one, I'm going to do whatever I can to keep it in the best shape. BTW, it's a N/A, can't afford a TT for now and didn't really feel like waiting any longer. I know alot of supra enthusiast and owners think it's a dumb choice to go for N/A when you really want power, but I don't care. I'm happy with what I have now and in the future I can always swap the engine/tranny out if I ever come up with that much money.. =) Oh yeah, I have no clue when the car was repainted, all the owner told me was he spent 900 dollars on it, the dumb thing is I'm pretty sure the original color is silver(the engine bay, trunk(where spare is) etc, are all silver, and he painted it silver again. I checked carfax before I purchased the car and it was clean title with no bad records so I doubt it's been in a wreck(all the vin numbers are present so all parts should be original).



Anyways, if my paint is peeling off at the edges(where the rubber lingings are), I'm pretty much screwed? =( this sucks. Anybody know where I can find instructions on how to prep my car for paint so maybe I can do it myself to save money? Anyways, thanks for everybody's input.. =)
 
Yea nothing at all wrong with an NA MKIV. I'd love to have one they can hold their own against most stock sports cars anyways but you have excellent Toyota reliability, MPG and of a torquey I6.



I would just put a 50shot of N2o on it in case it is ever needed and leave everything else stock including exhaust :)
 
I'd like to discuss which pads you like for "extreme cut" or "heavy compounding".

Sometimes the old standby LC Orange just isn't enough, especially for rock-hard clearcoat!

Anyone tried the "Surbuf" pads? Opinions?

What about the LC "Foamed wool"?

LC Yellows?

What do you think does the best job?

What are other options?

(Mostly interested in pads for RO/DA polishers!:biggrin:)
 
Hey Bill Luster,

I have run through a bunch of the L/C Purple Wool Foamed Pads and they work great, fast, and finish down incredibly clear in my experience.
I had a Black Lexus 430, similar to the one GMBLCK just did awhile back, and this paint was not responding to Orange Foam Pad + anything short of 3M heavy duty compound which I would never do on old paint anyway.

I finally took out the foamed purple wool pads and M105 and just killed the scratches, etc., right off the finish quickly!

The only downside I can think of is that these pads dont last long - certainly not even close to what a traditional wool pad, but for the fact they lint alot less than traditional wool pads, and finish way better than a cutting wool pad, they are a good workhorse for me.

Oh, all this work was done with a Makita 9227C, no random orbitals were used.

I still dont have time to figure out how to post pics up here like all you guys do, so I will try to send a before and after of a door on that black Lexus I talked about so you can see how good the purple foamed wool works, ok?

Bill, sent you a PM..

Dan F
 
I've tried Surbuf 6 inch pads with System One and a Meg's G110. To my mind the combo worked the way a rotary/wool pad combo would with System One. Defects were removed quickly but were replaced with a fine regular scratch pattern. These were easily taken out with a fine foam pad, > 70 ppi, to give a glossy finish.

The nice thing about the Surbuf pads is that I didn't have to exert any pressure at all. Actually I lifted up a bit on the polisher to let the pad jostle about freely. That would seem to make heat build up a non issue.

People have reported awsesome results with Meg's M105 and the Surbuf pads.
 
I've tried them all with an ROB and I would have to say that my favorite would be the Surbuf pads on a PC/G110v2. If I'm using a wool pad you can bet that I'm usually using my Dewalt with the bigger pads or the Metabo with the smaller ones. Not that I didn't get good results with the Surbuf, but if the paint requires that much attention using
wool with a DA seems to require a lot of work to wipe the polish off when the paint is oxidized. In my experience though the Surbuf didn't cake up near as fast as the other brands. The Cyclo pads also worked well via DA. I think if I were just doing my own cars and didn't have a rotary I'd be pleased with the Surbuf. I did say I've tried them all but I haven't tried the PFW on a DA now that Ive had a little coffe and awake, but I'd like to hear what peoples experiences were with the PFW via DA.
 
Stokdgs said:
Hey Bill Luster,

I have run through a bunch of the L/C Purple Wool Foamed Pads and they work great, fast, and finish down incredibly clear in my experience......
I finally took out the foamed purple wool pads and M105 and just killed the scratches, etc., right off the finish quickly!

The only downside I can think of is that these pads dont last long - certainly not even close to what a traditional wool pad, but for the fact they lint alot less than traditional wool pads, and finish way better than a cutting wool pad, they are a good workhorse for me.

Oh, all this work was done with a Makita 9227C, no random orbitals were used.

Bill, sent you a PM..

Dan F
Click to expand...

Hey Dan... I got your PM. When you say the purple wool pads don't last long, give me an example. How many uses? Washable? Use once throw away?

Blinky said:
I've tried Surbuf 6 inch pads with System One and a Meg's G110. To my mind the combo worked the way a rotary/wool pad combo would with System One. Defects were removed quickly but were replaced with a fine regular scratch pattern. These were easily taken out with a fine foam pad, > 70 ppi, to give a glossy finish.

The nice thing about the Surbuf pads is that I didn't have to exert any pressure at all. Actually I lifted up a bit on the polisher to let the pad jostle about freely. That would seem to make heat build up a non issue.

People have reported awsesome results with Meg's M105 and the Surbuf pads.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. What's the longevity of those pads? Washable/Re-usable?

Bullitt said:
I've tried them all with an ROB and I would have to say that my favorite would be the Surbuf pads on a PC/G110v2. If I'm using a wool pad you can bet that I'm usually using my Dewalt with the bigger pads or the Metabo with the smaller ones. Not that I didn't get good results with the Surbuf, but if the paint requires that much attention using
wool with a DA seems to require a lot of work to wipe the polish off when the paint is oxidized. In my experience though the Surbuf didn't cake up near as fast as the other brands. The Cyclo pads also worked well via DA. I think if I were just doing my own cars and didn't have a rotary I'd be pleased with the Surbuf. I did say I've tried them all but I haven't tried the PFW on a DA now that Ive had a little coffe and awake, but I'd like to hear what peoples experiences were with the PFW via DA.
Click to expand...

I'm also very interested in Surbuf and PFW. My main concern is the price-to-longevity ratio. I'd hate to think that these pads need to pitched after one or two uses, when I still have some orange pads from 5 years ago and they're still perfect... after MANY uses!!!:biggrin:
 
If the DA and orange or cyan pads are not doing the job I grab my rotary. Simply faster and more effective IMO.

I do plan to try out some Surbuf pads though. ;)
 
This is a good thread, as I haven't got a rotary and have never used one. I've got some Surbuf pads, ready to try them out, just haven't done a car that needs them yet. I've got yellows and I don't find they work that good, but maybe with the new Griot's DA, i'll have to try them again.
 
I have used the L/C Yellow pads in the past, when I was using a Porter Cable 7424 and Zaino ZPC-Fusion Swirl Remover, and this combo worked great too.
I had to really lean on the pads to get them to cut, but the 6" Yellow Foam Pad worked well.
I ended up wearing the first pad down to nothing by the end of the 2nd Black SUV, and finished up with my spare Yellow on the remaining 2.
This required a follow up with L/C White Foam Pads and
the same Zaino Fuison Product, and it looked just perfect when all done.

For Luster - the Purple Wool Foam pads last a couple maybe, black scratched vehicles, before they lose most of their fiber and you have a flat foam wool pad that isnt very good any longer.
But, as I said before, they are fast, cut great, for me, dont leave swirls that are very noticeable, and can be quickly followed up with anything to make the finish even more perfect.

Dan F
 
80% of the time I use surbuf and M105. As noted above you don't need excessive pressure, so a good old 7424 will work. If you are extra nice to the surbuf pads (clean after every 2-3 sections) they will last much longer. No way they will last as long as a foam pad.

Since paints are different, sometimes I find that the tangerine pads w/ M105 will cut better then surbuf. This is not true on every paint, but give it a try if the surbuf pad do not cut it. To do extreme correction you need a machine that will withstand excessive pressure and will not bog down. The flex or festool IMO will meet these requirements. It can be done with a G110v2, but will take longer.

I do not like using LC yellow pads with a PC, the micro marring when used with a heavier compound is not something that you want to spend all day on to remove.
 
gmblack3 said:
I do not like using LC yellow pads with a PC, the micro marring when used with a heavier compound is not something that you want to spend all day on to remove.
Click to expand...

I haven't touched a LC yellow since trying PFW. First time I used PFW it was on white with moderate defects, finished with almost no pressure. After getting it out in the sun I felt it was LSP ready. Although the PFW cuts well if something really needs taken down I reach for the old twisted wool and a rotary.

I've washed PFW at least 3 times, fluff it in the dryer under no-heat and let it air dry. I try to keep it very clean while working and change pads frequently to hopefully add to the longevity. So far so good.

TL
 
Sounds like the key to making the Surbuf and PFW pads last longer is to not allow too much product to build up on them.

And if you don't use too much pressure, they could probably last pretty well.:D
 
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