Some questions on Finish Kare

Accumulator said:
IME, the FK1000P is better in that regard than my other sealants too. Using the FK QDs over other sealants helps a bit, but oh man does that FK1000P shed stuff, even bugs that've been left on for [I won't say how long :o ].
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How would you compare 1000p to something like 845 in terms of protection/dirt shedding ability, looks, and longevity?
 
Rob Tomlin said:
How would you compare 1000p to something like 845 in terms of protection/dirt shedding ability, looks, and longevity?
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I find the FK1000P to be superior in the functional sense but the appearance diff is gonna be personal preference.



While both products do best for me layered, when you're only doing one coat the FK1000P is mighty impressive. To be fair, I should point out that I get inconsistent durability from 845; sometimes it's simply amazing and other times it needs redone frequently...never did figure out why. No such issues with the FK1000P.



The best thing IME is the way it sheds dirt and protects against etching/etc. I've gotten to where I neglect the Yukon something awful because it always washes clean with zero issues, and I've left bugs on it for weeks; any of my other LSPs would be not only dead by now, but would have also allowed the long-standing contamination to do serious damage. This aspect of the Fk1000P has really impressed me. SuperBee364 had raved about this, and it was a big part of why I decided to try the stuff.



While 845 is "bright, reflective" and kinda "sealant-like", the FK1000P really does look like a thin layer of oh-so-shiny additional clear. Hard for me to verbalize how it strikes me, but I keep thinking that I shouldn't like it as much as I do on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic...like I oughta want to top it, but I actually like how it looks (and I'm really an old-school paste wax-look guy). Really the sort of thing you'd have to try for yourself I guess, but I don't think I'd choose it for a nonmetallic dark color. Hey, if you don't like how it looks it'll still be great for wheels. It doesn't look like Zaino. It doesn't look like KSG, UPP, BF or anything else I've ever used.
 
I see same as well as accumulator. 1000P shed dirt much faster and make washing easier because of release of dirt. I only see maybe 4 months out of 845 coat and see 6-8 out of 1000P and maybe its because it clean easier so I have to use more gentle stuff to clean. Both have similar look, but 1000P has thick look to me.
 
Accumulator said:
I find the FK1000P to be superior in the functional sense but the appearance diff is gonna be personal preference.



While both products do best for me layered, when you're only doing one coat the FK1000P is mighty impressive. To be fair, I should point out that I get inconsistent durability from 845; sometimes it's simply amazing and other times it needs redone frequently...never did figure out why. No such issues with the FK1000P.



The best thing IME is the way it sheds dirt and protects against etching/etc. I've gotten to where I neglect the Yukon something awful because it always washes clean with zero issues, and I've left bugs on it for weeks; any of my other LSPs would be not only dead by now, but would have also allowed the long-standing contamination to do serious damage. This aspect of the Fk1000P has really impressed me. SuperBee364 had raved about this, and it was a big part of why I decided to try the stuff.



While 845 is "bright, reflective" and kinda "sealant-like", the FK1000P really does look like a thin layer of oh-so-shiny additional clear. Hard for me to verbalize how it strikes me, but I keep thinking that I shouldn't like it as much as I do on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic...like I oughta want to top it, but I actually like how it looks (and I'm really an old-school paste wax-look guy). Really the sort of thing you'd have to try for yourself I guess, but I don't think I'd choose it for a nonmetallic dark color. Hey, if you don't like how it looks it'll still be great for wheels. It doesn't look like Zaino. It doesn't look like KSG, UPP, BF or anything else I've ever used.
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Thanks.



Just for clarification, I have been using FK 1000p on and off for a couple of years now and I love it as well. I was just looking for comparisons with 845 (a product that I also have but have not used much because of the difficulty I had in it's application/removal).
 
Rob Tomlin- OK, gotcha...hope I made some sense Re the comparison.



When applying FK1000P, I found that *lightly* misting the applicator with FK425 helps a bit and I didn't experience any downside (I'd wondered if it might compromise durability). My issue with it was the pseudo-holograms, which were pretty alarming to discover but nothing like the headache I got when 476S did that.



ltebow34- Yeah, being able to clean with gentle products/methods is a real plus. On the "thickness", I don't find it as thick as KSG, especially in the functional sense; I was able to keep a KSGed vehicle marring free pretty easily because of thick build-film that I get with many layers, but I have to be a lot more careful with my FK1000Ped vehicle (even though the clear is harder).
 
Accumulator try using just towel with 425. instead of spraying on paint, spray on towel and buff over paint. I had same trouble on hot dark car in the sun but learned this trick and its the easy way. Mist lightly on mf, then go over paint, and just flip towel and move on.



For substitute try 146 in place of 425, it picks up more but still leaves same anti static slick finish plus wont hurt LSP. We are only 3 people in world who love 146 hehe
 
Rob Tomlin said:
Thanks.



Just for clarification, I have been using FK 1000p on and off for a couple of years now and I love it as well. I was just looking for comparisons with 845 (a product that I also have but have not used much because of the difficulty I had in it's application/removal).
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Considering all the posts talking about how easy 845 is to apply and remove, and how great it is in terms of protection and durability, I knew I had to give this product another chance. The first time I used it was on my yellow single stage paint, and it was a bear to remove (and it didn't apply that easily either).



I just finished applying a coat of 845 to my wife's silver Mazda 5. It went on easier than when I applied it to my yellow SS paint, and more importantly, it removed *much* easier as well. This was much closer to the product description that I had been reading on the detail forums for years. I would still say that it doesn't apply super easy (as compared with some carnauba paste waxes such as Supernatural, Trade Secret etc.) as the applicator sponge was a bit "grabby" on the paint.



But the 845 removed quite easily. Perhaps not quite as clean and easily as say Blackfire Wet Diamond, but not too far behind that.



The thing that I am impressed with the most so far is the fact that there was such a noticeable difference/improvement in looks immediately after application. I am used to sealants that don't really look like much until the next day after curing. I applied this over Opti-Seal. I have always felt that OS darkens the paint, and this normally isn't something I really want on Silver, but I thought it looked pretty good on my wifes Silver Mazda 5. Well, the 845 really "brightened" the paint and made it pop more than it was. It also improved the slickness.



Now we will see how it sheds dirt and holds up long term.



At least now I won't feel like such an idiot for saying I had difficulty applying/removing 845 any more!



Still wonder what the issue was when I used it on my yellow car. Single stage paint? Weird. <shrug>
 
IMHO, I don't think so. 146 has some additional cleaning ability that 425 doesn't have. I think 425 is a better choice for helping out when drying the car. If you have the time, I do like topping 1000P with FK's Pink Wax. This is my favorite on metallic Japanese paints. I've got so many FK products, that I find them a little CG like in that they seem to have similar descriptions. Maybe I'm just too impatient, but I can't say that I like 216, 218 or 2180 all that much. 215 is OK, though. Another product that I really do like is FK's 108. The different glazes are another ? for me. Bence is the man when it comes to FK products. For a glaze, I like CGs EZ Creme.



Just my .02



HTH
 
2005GTPinMD said:
I never heard of 146 - might try it with my next order. I use FK425 while drying my car. Would FK146 be better for that use?
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IMHO, I don't think so. 146 has some additional cleaning ability that 425 doesn't have. I think 425 is a better choice for helping out when drying the car. If you have the time, I do like topping 1000P with FK's Pink Wax. This is my favorite on metallic Japanese paints. I've got so many FK products, that I find them a little CG like in that they seem to have similar descriptions. Maybe I'm just too impatient, but I can't say that I like 216, 218 or 2180 all that much. 215 is OK, though. Another product that I really do like is FK's 108. The different glazes are another ? for me. Bence is the man when it comes to FK products. For a glaze, I like CGs EZ Creme.



Just my .02



HTH
 
Over FK stuff it works absolutely great. But over other products, it may smear. Spritzing it on the towel usually solves the issue. Best looking/slickest spray product ever, but OCW is very close. FX-100 was a bit warmer.



My fave FK glaze is the #1 New Car Glaze, which is a curable, non abrasive glaze with slight concealing ability. Looks great, adds surprising protection. Sorta LSP-light...
 
Bence said:
Over FK stuff it works absolutely great. But over other products, it may smear. Spritzing it on the towel usually solves the issue. Best looking/slickest spray product ever, but OCW is very close. FX-100 was a bit warmer.



My fave FK glaze is the #1 New Car Glaze, which is a curable, non abrasive glaze with slight concealing ability. Looks great, adds surprising protection. Sorta LSP-light...
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OK. Gotcha. I've never used it with anything other than another FK product under it. Thanks for the tip. Do you find the FK #1 similar to Meg's New Car Glaze (#5 I believe?)
 
ltebow34 said:
Accumulator try using just towel with 425..
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Tried that, didn't care for it; I want things as *WET* as possible with QD when drying for max lubrication/etc. Do like that technique in general though :xyxthumbs And I do it that way with FK146 when cleaning wheel barrels (cleaning the rusty dust from the brake rotors after a wash, when the vehicle is first moved).



For substitute try 146 in place of 425, it picks up more but still leaves same anti static slick finish plus wont hurt LSP. We are only 3 people in world who love 146 hehe
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Yeah, I *never* hear about anybody using FK146! It seems to do a tiny bit of concealing too, or at least more than the old version of FK425 did (well, that stuff doesn't hide *anything*).
 
Marcus, 215 is MUCH stronger than 303. I tried it with a wool pad and it corrects nicely. If you have two primed pads (1 wool, 1 soft polishing/finishing), you can do the job with that one liquid. In 1.5 step. :) This means that you cut the surface, change pads, finish with foam, then remove. Of course, you should add more product as necessary, especially if you are using little amounts and/or the surface requires longer working times.



Joe, I don't have any experience with the Meg's #5, but I *feel* that the FK #1 is a contemporary, modern product. I dunno when it debuted, but it has the same chemical backbone as 300 for example.
 
Bence said:
Joe, I don't have any experience with the Meg's #5, but I *feel* that the FK #1 is a contemporary, modern product. I dunno when it debuted, but it has the same chemical backbone as 300 for example.
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I just may not have spent enough time with the various FK polishes/glazes to gain a full appreciation of them. And maybe that's why I shy away from them? 303, 330, 216, 218 and 185 kind of leave me flat.



Forgot to mention 108 (I think?) I like the way it works.



I too use the 146 on wheel barrels to get the after wash "gunk" out.
 
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