Some questions on Finish Kare

N

nonwelder

New member
A few questions...



Well, first of all, I got my sample of 435 today. Wow, nice stuff!



Anyway, what is the difference between 425 and the Finish Kare Anti Static Poly Wipe Finish Restorer Spray Detailer?



Also, for a LSP, would you suggest 2180 or 1000?



Thanks. any other input on FK is appreciated!
 
OneQuickGT1 said:
A few questions...



Well, first of all, I got my sample of 435 today. Wow, nice stuff!
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You mean 425, right? Yeah, good stuff. I don't use it over carnaubas as much as over sealants though.



Anyway, what is the difference between 425 and the Finish Kare Anti Static Poly Wipe Finish Restorer Spray Detailer?
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That other spray is the FK146, right? I'm using it pretty much recently.



The 425 leaves a slightly higher gloss and is a little more slick. The 146 cleans better and seems to be a little more forgiving of any flaws (no it won't conceal "regular marring" but it will look a bit nicer than 425 on a ~95% finish). E.g., my Yukon isn't *quite* perfect any more, but it looks fine with 146; with 425 I could notice the minor imperfections easier.



Also, for a LSP, would you suggest 2180 or 1000?
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Haven't tried the 2180. The FK1000P is very nice in a "glossy sealant"-look way, but no you won't mistake it for a carnauba. It can look like "additional clearcoat" and on light colors and metallics I think it looks good. VERY good at shedding dirt, seems resistant to bugs/etc. too. Can be a little tricky to layer (gotta avoid solvent-action) and you also have to be a little careful about how you use it on black plastic trim.



any other input on FK is appreciated!
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The FK1119 (part one of their decontamination system) is good for a "super shampoo" and even helped me get some lane-line paint off.
 
OneQuickGT1- If you ever try the FK146, I'd be interested to hear what you think of it. I seem to be the only person around here using the stuff.
 
Accumulator said:
OneQuickGT1- If you ever try the FK146, I'd be interested to hear what you think of it. I seem to be the only person around here using the stuff.
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Not so, Mr A.! I too love 146. And as you do, I find 1000P is nice over light metallics. I like to top it with FK's Pink Wax. I have just about all of the FK line, but find I primarily use 425, 146, 1000P and Pink Wax. I have a little bit of the FX 100 left that I like as well, but it's going fast.
 
Ah, the old, wonderful-finicky FX-100...



What a great stuff it was!



1000P, 2685, 215, 425 are my faves, but I really like 218's, 2180's look as well.
 
Accumulator said:
, my Yukon isn't *quite* perfect any more, but it looks fine with 146; with 425 I could notice the minor imperfections easier.







Can be a little tricky to layer (gotta avoid solvent-action) and you also have to be a little careful about how you use it on black plastic trim.





The FK1119 (part one of their decontamination system) is good for a "super shampoo" and even helped me get some lane-line paint off.
Click to expand...



lol feel like accumulator owns a fleet of cars



What do you mean by solvent action?
 
FYI: I wrote Finish Kare a few weeks ago and asked about curing time. They recommended that one wait 24 hours to a couple of days before applying the second coat of 1000p. Perhaps allowing sufficient time for the first coat to cure will reduce any problems caused by solvent action. Perhaps.
 
Landcruiser- Ah, glad to hear that you like the FK146! Heh heh, at least that makes two of us.



FWIW, I'm using it on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic, and I think it'd look better on a lighter color. Not *bad* or anything though...and I'm not topping it, which would probably make a diff.



Alexshimshimhae- Heh heh, guess how I came up with the username "Accumulator" ;) But I'm down to eight now, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna sell the RX-7.



The "solvent action" in question is related to the "like-removes-like" phenomenon, where subsequent applications of a product remove the already-applied stuff, precluding true layering.



Akimel- Yeah, I'd talked to a lot of people about how to layer FK1000P, and I thought I had the whole thing figured out. I waited at least 24 hours, and often longer, as I did the Yukon XLD; sure didn't want my efforts on that beast to be in vain! But alas, I ended up with some pretty awful pseudo-holograms after the final (fifth) coat and fixing those was enough of a hassle that I haven't tried adding another layer since.



I've had a few areas where it apparently didn't layer right on some exterior black trim (had to redo a few small areas) and overall, it just doesn't layer the way, say.... KSG does. Doesn't offer the same kind of "thick protective coating" you can get from heavily layered KSG either, but the FK1000P sure does shed contamination really (and I mean *REALLY*) well. I kinda wish it did do the "thick coating" thing the way KSG does though...it's much harder to avoid marring with the FK1000P than it was with KSG, even though I'm using it on *much* harder paint.
 
Accumulator said:
Landcruiser- Ah, glad to hear that you like the FK146! Heh heh, at least that makes two of us.

FWIW, I'm using it on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic, and I think it'd look better on a lighter color. Not *bad* or anything though...and I'm not topping it, which would probably make a diff.
Click to expand...



I agree- 425/146/1000P do not attract "stuff" like carnubas do. I'm not as impressed with some of the other FK offerings though.
 
landcruiser said:
I agree- 425/146/1000P do not attract "stuff" like carnubas do..
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IME, the FK1000P is better in that regard than my other sealants too. Using the FK QDs over other sealants helps a bit, but oh man does that FK1000P shed stuff, even bugs that've been left on for [I won't say how long :o ].
 
porta said:
Or top 1000P with 915 if you dont like the look of it.
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Right; FK1000P is a sealant (despite the "hi temp paste wax" description) so I'd apply it *before* the wax, not as a topper.



Alexshimshimhae- Gotta say that I can't help but gently :nono you about trying yet another product ;) FWIW, I'd only use FK1000P on finishes that I can get *and keep* basically perfect, unless maybe...oh I dunno...you use it over something that will fill a bit while being sealant-friendly like DWG (or whatever it's called these days) or Autoglym SRP. If you need to polish more than once a year to be happy with the finish, I'd just stick with what you already have.
 
Finish Kare is awesome, 2180 is great sealant but you have to use portercable or DA machine to apply and work it in with light pressure. It only last 4-5 months if you dont. If you do you can see 8+ months. Makes finish super slick too - makes topping with hard to use products easy cuz it so slick. You can forget about car for a year with 2180 top with 1000P heh. I talk with a distributor autoaesthetica for 45 minutes one day and learned how to make 215 go much easier and learn way more correction(real correction) from it, it clean paint awesome and with good technique can correct some too.



After I talk with Mike who really know this line is that FK product some have little learning to apply to get results that beat other stuff. Pastes which are very nice are apply really easy just like others, but some of the other product which I like to begin with can get much better result if you know any little trick to them(2180 machine with little pressure on finish pad) .



I also use #146 for multiple use too now after conversation. Windows cleaner, lubrication for claybar, you can careful in place of poorboy spray/wipe but with SLICK anti static. I really like 146 now. 118 is great shampoo, clean easy and rinse FAST. 218 for sealant doesn't have heavy cleaning like old fk1 dist says, I tried this on oxidated paint. Seem to be close to pure sealant with very light clean. Easy to apply easy remove. LoveFK:D
 
ltebow34 said:
Finish Kare is awesome, 2180 is great sealant but you have to use portercable or DA machine to apply and work it in with light pressure. It only last 4-5 months if you dont. If you do you can see 8+ months. Makes finish super slick too - makes topping with hard to use products easy cuz it so slick. You can forget about car for a year with 2180 top with 1000P heh. I talk with a distributor autoaesthetica for 45 minutes one day and learned how to make 215 go much easier and learn way more correction(real correction) from it, it clean paint awesome and with good technique can correct some too.



After I talk with Mike who really know this line is that FK product some have little learning to apply to get results that beat other stuff. Pastes which are very nice are apply really easy just like others, but some of the other product which I like to begin with can get much better result if you know any little trick to them(2180 machine with little pressure on finish pad) .



I also use #146 for multiple use too now after conversation. Windows cleaner, lubrication for claybar, you can careful in place of poorboy spray/wipe but with SLICK anti static. I really like 146 now. 118 is great shampoo, clean easy and rinse FAST. 218 for sealant doesn't have heavy cleaning like old fk1 dist says, I tried this on oxidated paint. Seem to be close to pure sealant with very light clean. Easy to apply easy remove. LoveFK:D
Click to expand...



Thanks for a informative post! Can u tell us more about the tips on FK215?
 
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