some holograms coming back after a few days..

I

imported_Reflectionz

New member
using hi-temp 61 polish, megs tan finishing pad or lc black, speed 1300 rpms.



is the oil in the polish hiding some and coming back? am i not working it long enough?



i usually do 2-3 passes to an area with no or very little pressure (pass in like 1 pass, not working the area till theres no more polish). is that how long should it take it polish out a car to get rid of buffer trails?



you cant get additional buffer trails with a finishing pad could you?
 
Are you hand glazing or hand polishing after using the rotary? Your hand should always be the last step in a detail not the machine that's probably why it's happening. Could be the product as well. Some are great for that intial shine factor but within days they break down and look like poo.
 
Jakerooni said:
Are you hand glazing or hand polishing after using the rotary? Your hand should always be the last step in a detail not the machine that's probably why it's happening. Could be the product as well. Some are great for that intial shine factor but within days they break down and look like poo.
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Whaaaaaaaat?!?!



I think i need to stop by your shop sometime and show you how to finish with a machine.
 
Reflectionz said:
using hi-temp 61 polish, megs tan finishing pad or lc black, speed 1300 rpms.



is the oil in the polish hiding some and coming back? am i not working it long enough?



i usually do 2-3 passes to an area with no or very little pressure (pass in like 1 pass, not working the area till theres no more polish). is that how long should it take it polish out a car to get rid of buffer trails?



you cant get additional buffer trails with a finishing pad could you?
Click to expand...



I haven't used the products or the lc black pads you are using so I can't say if that is the problem but make sure the surface is totally clean before you start.



Clay the surface, and use clean finishing pads in a clean environment. First pass use some pressure about 5 lbs or less. The second pass use less pressure. Third pass use just the weight of the machine. RPMs 1200 or less.



Derrick
 
Reflectionz said:
you cant get additional buffer trails with a finishing pad could you?
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You could if you're not removing the inital holograms. What is the condition of the finish you started with? I seriously doubt a final finishing pad with a polish is creating swirls unless you're doing something really wrong.
 
David Fermani said:
You could if you're not removing the inital holograms. What is the condition of the finish you started with? I seriously doubt a final finishing pad with a polish is creating swirls unless you're doing something really wrong.
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I agree.



Or one other possibility is that the pad is not clean and you are dragging some type of contamination in the pad.
 
Reflectionz said:
using hi-temp 61 polish, megs tan finishing pad or lc black, speed 1300 rpms.



is the oil in the polish hiding some and coming back? am i not working it long enough?



i usually do 2-3 passes to an area with no or very little pressure (pass in like 1 pass, not working the area till theres no more polish). is that how long should it take it polish out a car to get rid of buffer trails?



you cant get additional buffer trails with a finishing pad could you?
Click to expand...



I would think HT 61 with a finishing pad, would be very mild. Never used HT61, but their other products are outstanding. If you cut or polished first, then i think you are not using enough pressure. Try the 61 with a polish pad. Do an IPA wipe to remove oils.
 
salty said:
I would think HT 61 with a finishing pad, would be very mild. Never used HT61, but their other products are outstanding. If you cut or polished first, then i think you are not using enough pressure. Try the 61 with a polish pad. Do an IPA wipe to remove oils.
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yea.. im definitely hiding them! i did a alcohol wipe down with grease and wax remover, which is excellent for that purpose btw (found at paint stores), and everything came back like it was never done.



i might bump it up to a polishing pad but i always worried that a polishing pad will leave its own holograms. what speed do you suggest i spin it at? or does it not matter? what do you think of using something lighter like the ht-69 (wax/polish) and up the speed to 1500rpms on a polishing pad?



i only have time for 2 steps as i dont get paid enough to take my sweet time on a car (doing work for dealerships). it doesnt even have to be perfect.
 
It happens... I've slowly moved away from rotary finishing - I can finish fine most of the time, but one slip-up or rookie mistake and I've cost myself the time that I saved. I'm really looking at getting a UDM - Presta UCCL on a wool pad followed by P0106FF on my cyclo comes out perfect 100% of the time - I don't even need to check for hologramming in the sun, but it costs a bit of time - I'm thinking if the UDM could knock 10 minutes off my current finishing step, it'd be worth the price of entry.
 
themightytimmah said:
It happens... I've slowly moved away from rotary finishing - I can finish fine most of the time, but one slip-up or rookie mistake and I've cost myself the time that I saved. I'm really looking at getting a UDM - Presta UCCL on a wool pad followed by P0106FF on my cyclo comes out perfect 100% of the time - I don't even need to check for hologramming in the sun, but it costs a bit of time - I'm thinking if the UDM could knock 10 minutes off my current finishing step, it'd be worth the price of entry.
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does the udm do a better job than the pc? its just another orbital, right?
 
Reflectionz, i have used the 69 and found at times hard to work with. I didn't have much cut but finished down nicely. I found i had to remove the excess as soon as the panel was done. It does leave a nice shine and decent protection. If i am finishing with the rotary i usually stay around 1250 RPM. Buff enough to generate a little heat, then move on. Try a panel and do an IPA wipe, give you an idea of how the polish is working.



I also like to finish with a PC for the reasons that Mighty suggested.
 
salty said:
Reflectionz, i have used the 69 and found at times hard to work with. I didn't have much cut but finished down nicely. I found i had to remove the excess as soon as the panel was done. It does leave a nice shine and decent protection. If i am finishing with the rotary i usually stay around 1250 RPM. Buff enough to generate a little heat, then move on. Try a panel and do an IPA wipe, give you an idea of how the polish is working.



I also like to finish with a PC for the reasons that Mighty suggested.
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do you finish with a polishing pad or a finishing pad @ 1250 rpm?
 
Right now i finish with LC white polish pad and usually OP. The RPM will 'very' on different areas, i may reduce to 1000 RPM's on plastic bumpers, small areas, odd shapes etc.



On most paint i can get it swirl free with the rotary, but if it is black it is nice to also go over once with the PC.



This was cut with 3M fine cut and LC yellow

Finished with 3M machine glaze LC white all on rotary.

I generally now use HTEC, with maybe a little OP mixed in and OP to finish, the no dusting is so much better than the 3M stuff.



http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15747&cat=500&ppuser=17724

IMG_4688.JPG



http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15748&cat=500&ppuser=17724

IMG_4731.JPG
 
Maybe I'm lucky, but OP on a blue Edge pad via a rotary works great for me. I use the 600-900-1200 to 1500) then back down to 900 rpm for the last 2 passes. I use a pad brush after every few panals and flip it over after I do half the vehicle so I have a clean side to finish up.
 
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