I disagree with this statement. I think UPGP is a very good beading product. Very tight and tall beads, that looks like freshly applied 476s, and behaves this way for a long time. I just washed my car at the coin-op last night, it has upgp on it, as well as a trunk test panel of 476s, 1000p, 2180. The upgp easily outbeaded all the other products. All products were applied 2 months ago, and not topped with anything else.
I think the important thing to make UPGP work is no contamination and good paint.
-The paint should be clean and smooth, no oxidation, make sure to remove any other product on it with paint cleaner, IPA, whatever necessary.
-Make sure the applicator is perfectly clean, use a brand new one if necessary
-Let it cure for at least 12 hours in dry (non-humid) conditions, I go for 24 hours to be sure.
-go ahead and layer it every 24 hours if the car is just sitting there.
-don't top with any other product, even QD. That other product will interfere with the beading characteristics of what is underneath.
I haven't found anything that will outbead it, especially as the coating ages. This includes 476s and 1000p, two well known durable products. They probably bead similarly the first day after the coating is ready, but down the line I've found UPGP just lasts.
I must admit UPGP requires more attention in getting the best results. This car that is beading so well with UPGP right now, had tons of trouble with it the many other times I used it. It almost seems like UPGP was not there even after multiple layers. The problem I think was the car was parked outside in the open and the nightly dew would prevent the full cure from happening. This was the case for many trials of the product. This last time I put it in a garage for 3 days while applying my test products over the car before bringing it back to it's normal parking spot, and this is when UPGP results dramatically changed for this car for the better.
