Soap, soap, soaps…


Hmm.... I tried and entire bottle of Mr Pink and wasn't impressed with it. The suds were slick but I didn't think it cleaned very well at all. i thought DG902 was a better offering.

I feel the same way it just lacks cleaning power. Mr. Pink is good smelling, it is very sudsy, the bubbles last a long time, and has great lubrication.
 

Hmm.... I tried and entire bottle of Mr Pink and wasn't impressed with it. The suds were slick but I didn't think it cleaned very well at all. i thought DG902 was a better offering.

What dilution did you use?

I have used 3D Pink one time and it seemed to clean well but the one standout was suds longevity. When I usually clean wheels, suds go flat but 3D had staying power. I am not sure if that is really but it felt good in use.
 
Yeah, unfortunately it's the same story with 3D and GG (can't find 3D on any of the Canadian Detailing suppliers). At least I got a good reason for another NY road trip LOL.

Call HD customer service or send a PM to Ben as I know they have Canadian distributors.
 
What dilution did you use?

I have used 3D Pink one time and it seemed to clean well but the one standout was suds longevity. When I usually clean wheels, suds go flat but 3D had staying power. I am not sure if that is really but it felt good in use.

Sorry for the confusion. I was talking about CG Mr Pink. I used it at their called for dilution as well as a little stronger. I don't like to double stuff unless I have worked my way up to that point.
 

Sorry for the confusion. I was talking about CG Mr Pink. I used it at their called for dilution as well as a little stronger. I don't like to double stuff unless I have worked my way up to that point.

I actually meant Mr. Pink. CG states 1 ounce to 2 gallons on their web site.

I had compiled this a while back and the Mr Pink has not changed.

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I currently use CG CWG as my stripper wax when doing a detail or paint correction and Duragloss 901/902 for my maintenance washes. I am almost out of DG 902 and the 2 soaps I am thinking of going with are Megs Hyper Wash or Ultima Paint Guard Wash. Nothing but good reviews on both.
 
Endorsement

Guys, my experience with CG's Mr. Pink has been pretty much positive across all columns on the check list. I've found no issues with its ability to clean. I guess the possible variations we might experience could be the local water supply and dilution ration, as Bunky hints at.

When I wash, I typically mix 1 oz of soap in two gallons of water in my wash bucket. I foam the car with a mixture that's 1 oz of soap in the quart container on the Gilmour. With these ratios, there's lots of soap being applied to the vehicle.

I bought my gallon of Mr Pink a while ago. It was sort of on a whim. I'm always skeptical with "new" products and I was unimpressed the first couple of times I used it. I later came to realize that it imparts a gloss on coated cars that no other soap has matched. And when I say "gloss", it's beyond that - - it's really something to see. Even cars that have never been waxed or cared for, they look great after using Mr Pink.

Mr Pink has mostly become my default weekly wash soap. The low price makes it even more appealing. I've got many different soaps on my shelf but I find myself reaching for this one most frequently. It's a pleasant to surprise to find such a good soap at this price point.
 
What's the appeal of suds? I consider them a, uhm....side-effect at best, not beneficial. I see them as just, uhm...air bubbles and I want *liquid*. Yeah, they can look appealing, but *functionally* I don't see what they bring to the table (and I've considered whether they contribute to stuff like encapsulation).
 
Dr G once said that ONR is safer to use than soap...but they market soap too because people want to see suds...even though chemically speaking, they don't bring any advantages.
 
If suds don’t help to lift dirt/clean, why would people like foaming cleaners?! I had assumed the increased surface tension at the edge of the bubble would help clean/lift dirt to some extent? What’s the point of a foam cannon if the bubbles are useless, might as well spray it down with UWW+, no?
 
If suds don’t help to lift dirt/clean, why would people like foaming cleaners?! I had assumed the increased surface tension at the edge of the bubble would help clean/lift dirt to some extent? What’s the point of a foam cannon if the bubbles are useless, might as well spray it down with UWW+, no?

Ah, some good Qs there, let's see if I have decent responses.

I think foaming cleaners are working differently from the suds in shampoos, the former being a more active part of the cleaning process (I'm thinking of say...foaming window cleaners or oven cleaner). But yeah, maybe you're right...I just dunno.

I thought that the idea behind a foam cannon (which I've never used) is to get the shampoo to cling better during the dwell-time.

With my foamgun-centric approach, I want liquid soap solution spraying at the point of wash media-to-paint contact, and also flowing through the bristles of the BHB (or nap of the mitt) to flush away the dirt. I'm relying primarily on the mechanical action from the wash media to dislodge the dirt and then the foamgun's output flushes it away. So with those objectives, I want a fairly, uhm...."thin" output from my foamgun, not truly foamy output that would cling.

My only real experience with true foam/extreme sudsing was when I tried "foaming sprayers" with my Rubber Cleaner (tires) and Wheel Cleaner. Got 'em from Griot's. Did *NOT* like them, not at all. Retired them after a few uses.

So I guess I see foam as being about dwell-time, active sudsing in Window/Oven cleaners as being different from what we're discussing when washing cas with carwash shampoo (in the practical sense). Maybe it's just my perspective (based on my somewhat wacky wash methodology), or maybe I'm still missing something here. I can't help but think that "suds" = "bubbles of air, not liquid shampoo that'll clean".

More discussion is welcome..
 
To me, sides are concentrated soap to provide more lubrication. I could be wrong, but a bed of suds + soap solution seems like it provides more lube than just soap solution.

I always feel like there is more soap and less water in "suds" compared to soap solution. I could be mistaken.

Since suds tend not to just run off the surface, if anything they are keeping a bit more soap on the surface a bit longer.

The state of suds in wash solution also gives you a bit of confidence that all the surfactants in the soap aren't used up.

All this is my own speculation. To be honest, I use a rinseless solution 90% of the time these days because it's just easier and works better IMHO.

Final pressure rinse with DI water and rinseless wash mixed with DI water means I can wash my black car in the blazing sun taking my time with no water spots. I don't even dry it. I just let the rinseless dry on the surface in the sun (on black) and wipe it down with QD when the whole car is complete.


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I would say foaming action mores helps with clinging to the surface therefore less of it falls off requiring less product overall and makes it more efficient.
 
Ah, some good Qs there, let's see if I have decent responses.

I think foaming cleaners are working differently from the suds in shampoos, the former being a more active part of the cleaning process (I'm thinking of say...foaming window cleaners or oven cleaner). But yeah, maybe you're right...I just dunno.

I thought that the idea behind a foam cannon (which I've never used) is to get the shampoo to cling better during the dwell-time.

With my foamgun-centric approach, I want liquid soap solution spraying at the point of wash media-to-paint contact, and also flowing through the bristles of the BHB (or nap of the mitt) to flush away the dirt. I'm relying primarily on the mechanical action from the wash media to dislodge the dirt and then the foamgun's output flushes it away. So with those objectives, I want a fairly, uhm...."thin" output from my foamgun, not truly foamy output that would cling.

My only real experience with true foam/extreme sudsing was when I tried "foaming sprayers" with my Rubber Cleaner (tires) and Wheel Cleaner. Got 'em from Griot's. Did *NOT* like them, not at all. Retired them after a few uses.

So I guess I see foam as being about dwell-time, active sudsing in Window/Oven cleaners as being different from what we're discussing when washing cas with carwash shampoo (in the practical sense). Maybe it's just my perspective (based on my somewhat wacky wash methodology), or maybe I'm still missing something here. I can't help but think that "suds" = "bubbles of air, not liquid shampoo that'll clean".

More discussion is welcome..

I've been using the Gilmour 75QGFMR foam gun for a few weeks now and I noticed the bubbles were snap-crackle-popping like Rice Krispies. I have a hunch that if I can hear it the bubbles are generating enough force to agitate the surface and spread the solution (soap/water).

Honestly I won’t be able to tell for sure if the foam gun is helping until winter comes. Now that the paint is perfect and its layer up with Wet Diamond it always feels clean / just clayed. The other day I just did the foam gun, rinsed, patted dry and it looked like the 2 hour, two bucket wash job (I did the wheels while the soap –Mr. Pink was “working”).
 
To me, sides are concentrated soap to provide more lubrication. I could be wrong, but a bed of suds + soap solution seems like it provides more lube than just soap solution.

I always feel like there is more soap and less water in "suds" compared to soap solution. I could be mistaken.

Since suds tend not to just run off the surface, if anything they are keeping a bit more soap on the surface a bit longer.

The state of suds in wash solution also gives you a bit of confidence that all the surfactants in the soap aren't used up.

All this is my own speculation. To be honest, I use a rinseless solution 90% of the time these days because it's just easier and works better IMHO.

Final pressure rinse with DI water and rinseless wash mixed with DI water means I can wash my black car in the blazing sun taking my time with no water spots. I don't even dry it. I just let the rinseless dry on the surface in the sun (on black) and wipe it down with QD when the whole car is complete.


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I've never tried rinseless, and I'm not 100% sure of that wash process. I've been sticking with what works (2 buckets) but I'm looking for a something quicker (looking into rinseless).
 
No one has mentioned Poorboys World Super Slick and Suds. This is my go to wash for the 2bm. I've never used a foam gun so I don't know how it performs on that aspect. However, it has great dilution rates without compromising lubrication. And by using less, I find it does less damage to the LSP. I haven't tried Meg's Hyper Wash though. It is next on my shopping list.


Matty Nuggs, PGA
 
Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. Works really well for me. I am not concerned with the nice smell, although its nice. It creates nice thick suds, that cling well and doesn't seem to leave much residue behind.
 
I ordered some Meg's D110 Hyper Wash!

I currently have 1/3 of a bottle (64oz) Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash, and 3/4[SUP]th[/SUP] of a gallon of Chemical Guys – Mr. Pink. I also picked up some of those pumps for the gallons as I’ve been using way to0 much soap. I’ve been putting 3-5oz Meg’s Gold Class per bucket, and about 4-6oz CG Mr. Pink in the foam gun... Going to step it back to 2-3oz per bucket and 3-4oz in the foam gun (maybe less). Note: Mr. Pink doesn’t say how many OZ per gallon/bucket.

Suggestions?
 
4u2nvinmtl;1990511[I said:
Note: Mr. Pink doesn’t say how many OZ per gallon/bucket.[/I]

Suggestions?

My bottle has instructions on dilution rates for the gallon buckets; I don't have it in front of me--but I believe it mentioned "cap-fulls" as the measurement. I poured one cap-full in a measuring cup and it's exactly .25oz.
 
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