Soap for FMJ? (FMJ not lasting!)
- Thread starter G35 Mass
- Start date
imported_truzoom
New member
I think the more important question is, how MUCH soap are you using? What sort of mitt? Is the car stored outside?
imported_Picus
New member
Heya - very interesting. I've always recorded good durabilty from FMJ. What was the prep prior to the FMJ? I can see it not lasting if it was applied over polish residue, or a wax. Also, if it is stored outside it could be any number of environmental issues... I doubt a wolfgang soap is stripping a sealant.
Wasatch
New member
You are doing something totally wrong. I have AJ on the X for over 5-6 weeks went through rain a few washes and a QD just about ever other day, and the paint still looks close to day one. I consider AJ and FMJ pretty close if not identical products. Or you could be just a troll. Lately Autopia has been getting alot of people with less than 5 posts claimed/asking some outrageous stuff.
Troll? Thanks. As you see, I registered a while ago, not today. I purchased over $400 in detailing stuff, ALL of which I decided on based on what I read here.... BUT I know how to SEARCH, therefore havent needed to post any other questions... (though I was suprised that was my first post, figured I would have said something in the past 5 months)
ANYWAYS
my prep was Pinnacle Clay, ssr 2.5, ssr 1, poorboy's polish, and Menzerna FMJ, All applied with a PC.
Im wondring if the application of the FMJ was the problem. I applied with a black pad, did the entire vehicle, then removed the excess. Im wondering if I put it on too thin? I was going to put on a few more layers of FMJ, but I didnt have time for another week, and by then I had driven 500 miles, and didnt want to seal in any contaminants( I wasnt going to re-clay over fresh sealant) Is it possible that the application was the problem? I didnt "work" it in, like I did with the PoorBoy prep products, just a quick once over. I figured doing the entire car allowed it enough time to cure into the surface, probably 20-25 minutes. There was no smearing, it was all powdered residue.
I use very little soap, Ide say about a half-dollar size in the bucket, then warm water. I wash using a dogbone covered in MF, dry with waffle-weave MF. I do store it outside all the time, it is my daily commuter (40 miles each way). I do live a mile from a Very busy airport, but no where near any railways. (I would think that air planes / rail would just contaminate the surface, not destroy the sealant)
Thanks
G35
ANYWAYS
my prep was Pinnacle Clay, ssr 2.5, ssr 1, poorboy's polish, and Menzerna FMJ, All applied with a PC.
Im wondring if the application of the FMJ was the problem. I applied with a black pad, did the entire vehicle, then removed the excess. Im wondering if I put it on too thin? I was going to put on a few more layers of FMJ, but I didnt have time for another week, and by then I had driven 500 miles, and didnt want to seal in any contaminants( I wasnt going to re-clay over fresh sealant) Is it possible that the application was the problem? I didnt "work" it in, like I did with the PoorBoy prep products, just a quick once over. I figured doing the entire car allowed it enough time to cure into the surface, probably 20-25 minutes. There was no smearing, it was all powdered residue.
I use very little soap, Ide say about a half-dollar size in the bucket, then warm water. I wash using a dogbone covered in MF, dry with waffle-weave MF. I do store it outside all the time, it is my daily commuter (40 miles each way). I do live a mile from a Very busy airport, but no where near any railways. (I would think that air planes / rail would just contaminate the surface, not destroy the sealant)
Thanks
G35
imported_Picus
New member
Interesting. It doesn't sound like the application was an issue - I apply FMJ the same way (black pad/PC, very thin, one coat). I too let it sit for about 30 minutes then buff it off. You don't need to work it in at all. I have no experience with Poorboys Polish; I know they have a polish with carnauba in it; is that the one? If so it might be a bonding issue? Did you remove the polish residue with alcohol/water? It sounds to me like the FMJ couldn't bond over something that was on the paint... very odd in any event. Could be environmental I suppose, but seems unlikely.
I'd try again - this time wash, prep with alcohol/water (50:50, you know the drill), then apply FMJ the same way (thin, thorough coverage), let haze and buff off.
I'd try again - this time wash, prep with alcohol/water (50:50, you know the drill), then apply FMJ the same way (thin, thorough coverage), let haze and buff off.
imported_truzoom
New member
Could...fuel residue from the planes be falling on your paint and stripping the sealant? I know, far-fetched, but is it possible?
That could mean bad things for your health, also
That could mean bad things for your health, also
imported_Picus
New member
G35 Mass said:
It's badically rubbing alcohol (the 70% off the shelf stuff) mixed 50:50 with water; folks here use it to strip wax and remove polish residue before sealing.
What did you use to buff off the polish residue before waxing? The paint should have looked pretty good already prior to waxing.
Was the black finishing pad you used for waxing clean? perhaps it had some other chemical residue in it?
After waxing, was it immediately, i.e. with 24 hours, subjected to any harsh weather?
Was the black finishing pad you used for waxing clean? perhaps it had some other chemical residue in it?
After waxing, was it immediately, i.e. with 24 hours, subjected to any harsh weather?
imported_Picus
New member
G35 Mass said:
I only use it after the last polishing step before sealing/waxing. So I wash, clay, polish, isa:water, then seal/wax. The alcohol/water is just to make sure you have a totally clean surface on which to put the sealant. Any polish residue will mess with the bonding.
imported_memnuts
New member
Isn't FMJ suppose to sheet water rather than bead?
CMA quote:
Super slippery finish sheets water to reduce water spotting.
CMA quote:
Super slippery finish sheets water to reduce water spotting.
imported_Reflections
New member
I have never let any alcohol touch my finish and have never had a problem with bonding or durability with sealants. A quick wipe with a QD spray does the trick, or when I go the extra step with the machine glaze, it removes any polish residue as well.
I suspect the polish is creating a bonding problem. I've never had FMJ wear off of one of my cars that quickly. Of course I use FPII followed by Menzerna's glaze to avoid bonding issues with other manufacturer's products. Who knows whether one manufacturer's chemicals will stick to anothers. It might be a totally different problem, but I would skip the polish next time and see how it does.