So many choices....

ABC is the neutralization system sold by www.autoint.com

The purpose of this system is to deep clean the paint of industrial fall out, ferrous oxides, and other sorts of paint contamination. It also cleans off wax and sealant on the car. The paint is supposed to be left deep down clean.

The A of the system is mixed 8 to 1 and is called the Acid Neutralizer. "It removes all waxes and sotrage stains. Neutralizes acids which may have been deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint. Removes lot stains, wax build up. Excellent prewash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates before sanding. Saves time when applied to used vehicles, remove ocidation, recduces buff time.
Packaged in: 1 gallon 4/case, 5 gallon, and 55 gallon"

The B of the system is called the Alkaline Neutralizer. It is ready to use and requires no dilution. "The second step of our Neutralization System Alkaline Neutralizer deep cleans painted surfaces to remove Alkaline Deposits. Also dissloves ferrous metal particles while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.
Packaged in: 1 gallon 4/case, 5 gallon and 55 gallon"

The C of the system is the pH 7.0 surface conditioner. It is the final step in this system. Its a shampoo that neutralizes the paint and makes it pH 7. It is either used in 32:1 mixture or the 128:1 super concentrate. "A fine vehicle wash solution designed to be the final step in neutralization, it returns the paint to it's original facotry pH level. Excellent for everyday use, pH 7.0 removes the dirt without stripping waxes, polishes, or sealants.
Packaged in: 1 gallon 4/case, 5 gallon and 55 gallon"

"...." Is from the Valugard by Automotive International Inc. catalog.

Hope this helps....
 
wait until I tried it. I know other people on this forum tried it. I still got the bottles sitting next to me in my study room.
 
Acid fallout? Did we drop the bomb on Bin Laden already?



I thought all the expensive shampoos we buy so that and clay and pastes, wax etc.



IS it hype?



I would love to see someone do half a car with ABC and the other half with something else.



Any volunteers?
 
Your Welcome.



GMN - Many people experience this in certain areas of the US. NJ for one is prone to acid rain. The ferrous metal gets on the surface when cars are transported by rail, when the train stops the brakes emit these ferrous oxides.



Is ABC hype, I would doubt it. I have used C as a shampoo and it gets the job done without the fancy frills of Cold Class wash or Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo. I will post my results as soon as I use the complete ABC system.
 
From Chemistry 101, I remember soaps as being basic which sould seem to neutralize the acid. and if you use DAWN it would remove the old waxes. As for rail dust clay gets it out.



I am just trying to point out there are other ways to accomplish what they state their product does.



I am not knocking ABC but it seems this is the only prodcut like this or are there others? Most good products have copy cats, they are better, ok, and/or worse.



I am interested in the product but would love some additional information from others. Do you beleive what they say? Dissolve ferrous? What about if you have bare metal showing? hmmmmmm. The more I type the more I wonder. I could get technical and geeky but I think you would hate me if I did.



Heck you may hate me already. LOL



Who is manufacturer? I would love to read more and analyze?



I will look at site you posted in your post.



I love technical stuff. I mean no harm. But I love to learn!
 
Based on the sites ( www.autoint.com ) the clay only removes the head of the rail dust. There is still the stuff in the pores of the paint.

I think this is the only system of the kind to my knowledge, they do produce a clay though. The clay doesn't seem to flow well with some on this board. There are better clays out there.

I don't stick to a system of products, I try to find the best products out there for a specific job and mesh it all together.

ahh, don't get technical on me. I won't undertand technical stuff. I try to make it as simple as possible. Simple answers from a simple person.

so, I never stated I disliked you or said I dislike you. If I offended you in some way, please tell me how.

Later, I gotta finish up my english homework.
 
You never said you hated me I was defending my geeky post is all.



I gonna read up on this ABC stuff.



I always hated English. Prefer them psych classes due to the woman present!
 
The system was developed through work with PPG, DuPont and BASF, in conjunction with DaimlerChrysler, Ford, and GM. It is also part of tech bulletins issued by Mazda and Hyundai.



The tech bulletins from Ford, Mazda and Hyundai on the web site, as well as many pictures and explainations of the various conditions referred to in the TSB's.



The two areas you will need to explore are OEM/TSB and the Tech Tips sections.



the products are private labeled for Ford North America and Chrysler Canada. All new Ford Shop Manuals for each model which the dealerships receive have the process and procedures in them.



These were developed by the paint engineers for the auto manufacturers, working with the various paint suppliers to them.



:cool:
 
From some of Ron's posts a little while ago, these products are not generally designed for or marketed to the average consumer (for a number of reasons that I won't repeat here). This would help explain why there are not competitive products from vendors such as cma. There probably are other product lines out there but we would need someone with industry insight (like Ron) to point them out to us. Just think of the products as a fringe benefit to being an Autopian :)



I use the A product regularly to strip a cars finish clean. Its especially useful when removing Klasse (to start from scratch) as its more economical than the abrasives normally recommended for the job.



Steve
 
I bought the ABC system from Dave Luckanuck. You're right, he's a real nice guy.



I used it last friday on my Dad'd alero. "A" and "C" worked very well, but "B" didn't remove the ferrous particles from the rear bumper and trunk lid. I followed the instructions to the "T". I mixed "A" and "C" as outlined. I applied "B" as is. I let each one sit for 5 minutes befre removing. I applied "B" three times to the affected areas. It didn't really make a "dent" in the "rust spots". I was disappointed by this.



I was afraid to apply "B" anymore because I was worried it would damage my paint. So I stopped at three, and just moved on to "C".



What did I do wrong? So many people have had success with this product.



Ron, your input on this would be greatly appreciated.



As always, thank you.
 
Ron thanks for your post.



The website was very informative and useful. I was very interested in the fact the the manufacturers actually do care about the finish that much. I mean even Hyundai! I wonder if YUGO did? LOL



I wish the local dealers would care that much about the finish when they detail a car for delivery. Sometimes when I see them washing cars I shudder. I swear I can feel the pain the vehicle feels as they drag a sponge they just dropped on the pavement and rub a hood with it.



I await your answer to Bill's question.



After that I think I may call the local detailer you listed and talk to him a bit more.



Thanks again!



PS Wanna play golf sometime? If you come to NADA show in New Orleans 2002. I hope NADA works with the NFL and comes to some remedy to the problem with the Super Bowl.
 
Suggest you talk to David, and if possible, have him take a look.



It maybe that the particles have been on so long that they are really deep. Sometimes in a case where they have been on for over a year, we use clay on those spots while the "B" is dwelling.



The particles are loose, down in the pits they have created in the paint, but just wont come out since they are so big and deep. The clay will grab them and pull them up.



The white stuff you saw was all the waxes,polishes etc that you had been piling on. It stripped it all off, and as you found, the Dawn wasn't doing that.



The swirls that you saw, well, now I guess we know about the "hiding" factor of many products out there. Once you get a finish truly stripped down to the real finish, you can go after removing them in place of covering them up.



Check with Lugnut(Luckenuck) and have him take a look.



Got back late last nite from Puerto Rico. The Mazda, Toyota, Nissan, Infiniti, Kia, Saab distributors signed on for our program. We already had Ford, Hyundai,and Jag signed on down there.



Long 8 days.



:eek:
 
Actually, the "gumming" I experienced was from a bad bottle of 3M perfect it SMR (pn 39109). I was mistaken. "A" did an excellent job of removing my old wax applications. I've never used Dawn on any of my cars.



And you're right about the "rust specs". They have been sitting on the car for almost 2 years. They are probably too embedded for "B" to take care of alone. I will try and use the clay in conjunction with the "B" next time I use the system.



Do any of the products have a "best before date"? Will they go bad? Where should I store them? The cold weather is around the corner here in TO, so I won't be detailing again until next summer.



And Ron, you WERE right about clay alone making the problem worse. I clayed a very small portion of the bumper as a test, and the specs came back in a month much worse than before.



That's what really convinced me to call David and buy the system.



Thanks Ron.:)
 
Keep lids very tight, do not store in direct sunlight, keep from high heat(above 90) and from cold ( 50 F). The shelf life is a minimum of two years, may go as high as 4 years.



Always shake well before opening as some of the solid content may have settled out and needs to be remixed into the solution.



We did the system as a demo on a 1 1/2 year old Pathfinder in P.R. last week. The vehicle looked good, but was rough to the touch, had a few particles that were really deep.



When we "A", you could actually see small clear particles coming up from the paint, the "swelling" going away. Had to "B" three times, and use the clay on one small part of rear fascia. The paint there, due to the flexagents, is very porus and the iron oxides get in deep.



Came out perfect, good thing, as it was the Nissan Distributors wife's vehicle.



Got them having all the dealers they distribute to going on the entire system.





:bounce
 
OK, this sounds like something that would work well on my abused (by previous owners) Alfa. Is this stuff available in the UK? Would it be worth shipping here or is there something similar from Ford or Mazda UK?



Steven

Alfa 164

Autoglym & Blitz
 
We do not recommend the use of the system on non-clearcoated vehicles, unless the user is versed in the use of a rotary buffer. It will strip the paint clear down and most will have a heart attack to see their paint flat as a pancake.

There is a detailer on our website that is in the UK and has product.

To ship it over is so bloody expensive, well, you don't want to go there. Probably 3 to 4 times the cost of the product.

Check on the site www.autoint.com and look at the "find a detailer" section. His phone number, etc are listed.

:up
 
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