So many choices....

Quick questions, Can you start out with "A" on a dirt car or do you have to: C, A, B, C? Also, how often do you recomend using the whole system. Since im not familiar with the product i really dont know. Thanks alot for the time.
 
You wet the vehicle, then apply the A, it is a sufactant based product so no need to wash with C first.



The wetting with the hose of water first softens the dirt and soil just as when you do a regular wash job.



It may be used as often as one feels is necessary based upon the amount of enviormental contaminates the vehicle is subjected to during the year.



When I lived in SoCal, did it every three months to my cars.



Here in Cincy,normally, don't have to do it as our air is not as polluted and have the good sealant on them.



May have to if a high ozone day and thunderstorms with hot temperatures hit the vehicle. Clean off the sealant and the acid rain at the same time and start over.



Always take a look at how the water is shaping up when I dry after a wash and it has been at the airport for a week. If I see short term spots formed in the water as drying, means the sealant is being attacked by hydrazine and other acids.



That is an indicator to ABC to neutralize the acids, but will remove the sealant.



Lazy as I am, going to have to be bad to do that.







:cool:
 
Do these products go on like a wash?? or are they more like a cleaner that has to be applied and then wiped off? I have 2 Klassed cars and in a few months I want to strip them and was planning on using Paintwork Cleansing Lotion but if ABC will be easier, I'm in!



H
 
Guess My Name- Hello and welcome. Part of the answer to your question is that there is not a consensus on how to remove particulate contamination -- particularly metallic particulate contamination -- in paint.

The autoint site refers a Ford technical bulletin. That bulletin describes autoint's product and its use, so I presume the bulletin was, in whole or in part, prepared by autoint for Ford's review and adoption, as is common industry practice. The bulletin's thesis is that clay does not get the job done, only an acid product like autoint's is effective.

The other view is that clay WILL remove the undesireble particles. Some parties add that the acid process is ineffective.


My post culling posts on the two views appears at:

http://216.147.22.29/forum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=2183&highlight=clay+AND+acid

As I state at the end of the above post, I have no personal experience with the acid process and no experience using clay to handle specific metallic particulate problems, so I have no basis for saying what I think is true regarding the subject. I don't know. If others do, I suggest they post.
 
in their paint, I can tell you unequivocally that clay will not solve the problem alone. As I stated in an earlier post in this thread, I did use clay on a small portion of the infected area, and the fallout came back much worse than before.



How do I know that the fallout didn't come back on it's own? The car only has "rust specs" on the trunk lid and rear bumper. It's been there from the day we got the car. At the time I knew nothing about ferrous particles and detailing, so I just brushed it off. Add that to that fact that the specs never spread or became worse over time. They only got worse after I clayed them. This leads me to believe that the specs are a result of something that happenned to my vehicle before the dealer received it, not an everyday problem I encounter in my surroundings.



Next summer, I will attempt the method Ron has outlined in this thread(that being clay and "B" together). If the weather holds, I may do the bumper this month.



But in the end, we all must do what we feel is best regardless of what others say.
 
these products go on like a wash. A is applied just like a wash using a dedicated mitt in diluted solution while B is applied by wetting a separate mitt with a squeeze bottle and spreading across the horizontal surfaces.



Keep in mind you don't have to do the entire system. If you are looking to do nothing more than strip wax/klasse/zaino/whatever, then all you need is A and then a car wash.



Steve
 
Really? I was told that you have to use the A and b together. Well, thats why i gave away my gallinon of A to wolfburg, so i guess he aint complaining;) BTW, how did it make it to you allright?
 
I ordered the A and B but will just use regular Pinnacle shampoo as a final rinse. I assume that this will be an acceptable substitute for the C. I didn't want to order a whole gallon of car wash when I have so much on hand already.



H
 
Hey brad - I never received the gallon but thanks for the effort and the expense! I ended up buying my own gallon as its pretty cheap.



Steve
 
really, damn Mail Boxes ect!;) Im sory for getting your homes up and thanks again for the sample of C. Hows the ABC workin out for you?
 
So I have my BFWD and would be looking to top it with something special to really make the black on my car pop. I am looking at caranubas because it will be garaged most of the time. I have looked at everything from P21s, Dodo Juice, BF Ivory Caranuba, the new Autoglym HD wax. I really just can't decide and hoping you guys might have some input. My inclination is to stay Blackfire all the way through the LSPs thinking they are structured to work together. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
I have only used Collinite 845 over BFWD and it looked very nice. I have Midnight Sun and I plan on topping the BFWD withi it in the spring. From what everyone here says, the Blackfire Wet Ice over Fire combo is a killer look. I can't wait to try it out.
 
if you have BF WD, then get Midnight Sun, it's a stunning combo! If you don't then consider AG HD, another very nice wax, with awesome beading/sheeting action!
 
tthomp82 said:
So I have my BFWD and would be looking to top it with something special to really make the black on my car pop. I am looking at caranubas because it will be garaged most of the time. I have looked at everything from P21s, Dodo Juice, BF Ivory Caranuba, the new Autoglym HD wax. I really just can't decide and hoping you guys might have some input. My inclination is to stay Blackfire all the way through the LSPs thinking they are structured to work together. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Click to expand...

This is just me talking, but I would suggest staying in the same family, after all they are designed to compliment each other and the formulation is compatable.There is a lot of talk around about these products used together,why not try the companion wax,and it is a blend which will bond with your sealant. :)
 
Goose said:
I'm glad to hear another person using Victoria Concours Wax.
It really is a nice wax...
Click to expand...

I really like Victoria, it gives a great look. I think Midnight Sun is more durable though? I'm doing a test right now... I've got a couple of quarter panels on my truck in MS and the others in Victoria, been raining here so we'll see how they last.
 
All good suggestions if a bit on the expensive side.

If you're looking for something cost-effective that does a great job, Natty's Blue is fantastic on black.

That being said, I'd take Midnight Sun over Natty's any day. Love that stuff.
 
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