Thanks first to William H. Bonney for sending it to me to try.
I picked up a fender from the body shop owner I know, unfortunately, the only one he had in decent enough shape was white.
Anyway, it has been 28 years (since I was in high school) that I have used a rotary so I did some practicing today with the 7428 and the fender.
1. It seems to take more polish than the PC, Cyclo or UDM, seems to clear out and dry quickly and I get some hop.
2. Even bumping it up to 4 (speeds are 1-6, not rpms
) and using Optimum Compound and a Meguiars burgandy cutting pad, I couldn't burn an edge even using moderate pressure. :think:
3. Correction is definitely faster than a DA/RO buffer.
4. Even with halogens, I didn't notice any holograms when I was done-finished out with Optimum Compound and a yellow Meguiars polishing pad. Looked LSP ready, in fact.
5. Hopefully I get time in the next few days to practice on my car...probably best to do that before using it on a customer's car...although I am pretty confident if I keep the speeds down and stick with polishing pads I'd be fine.
I picked up a fender from the body shop owner I know, unfortunately, the only one he had in decent enough shape was white.
Anyway, it has been 28 years (since I was in high school) that I have used a rotary so I did some practicing today with the 7428 and the fender.
1. It seems to take more polish than the PC, Cyclo or UDM, seems to clear out and dry quickly and I get some hop.
2. Even bumping it up to 4 (speeds are 1-6, not rpms

3. Correction is definitely faster than a DA/RO buffer.
4. Even with halogens, I didn't notice any holograms when I was done-finished out with Optimum Compound and a yellow Meguiars polishing pad. Looked LSP ready, in fact.
5. Hopefully I get time in the next few days to practice on my car...probably best to do that before using it on a customer's car...although I am pretty confident if I keep the speeds down and stick with polishing pads I'd be fine.