So I've gathered

S

solekeeper

New member
I've spoken to a few very cool people through here, and for my attack (for those who didn't see my body shop thread) for the 1500 scratches..

I will be using M105, then following up with M205

What do you guys think? Good enough for a clean finish on a freshly sanded 1500 surface?



I already have my 3rd step (3M's Ultrafina with their blue pad)

Can you guys recommend me 2 pads to try with the 105 as well as the M205

Trying to keep marring/Holograms to a limit here, so nothing to abrasive please!



If someone see's something that maybe I shouldn't do, please let me know.. I plan on ordering these products this coming weekend.



Thanks again~
 
solekeeper- I dunno....1500 scratches might be a bit of a stretch for M105 :think: Better use a fairly aggressive pad for that.
 
Presta 1000 should take care of the 1500 scratches fairly easily, it'll just require a lot of follow up from the marring from that.
 
1500 grit scratches with M105... by DA or rotary? Pad? If by DA, not a chance!



I'm with Accumulator on this one. I'd wet sand with 2500 or 3000 first to remove the 1500 grit scratches. In the end you will have a better finish, it will take less time, and you will probably remove less clearcoat material.
 
RickyMartinZ28 said:
1500 is aggressive.... I've never had a need to wetsand with anything more aggressive than 2000, 3000 usually...
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I'm currently at a bodyshop, so 1500 is what we use post paint.

Can anyone recommend me something then?
 
solekeeper said:
I'm currently at a bodyshop, so 1500 is what we use post paint.

Can anyone recommend me something then?
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1500 seems popular with body/paint guys; my painter thouht I should hit the M3 with that (I chickened out..).



Go over it with 2-3K Meguiar's/Nikken Unigrit or Mirka, just enough to remove the coarse sanding marks. That'll result in a finish that'll be easy enough to bring back with reasonable compounding/polishing.



Seriously, it'll be a *LOT* easier to avoid an "oops!" if you do it that way because it's pretty easy to control what's going on with the sanding and far less so with very aggressive compounding.



(Yeah, you rotary-Meisters can go ahead and just buff out the 1500 marks, but people who haven't done it a zillion times should, IMO, play it safe.)
 
I'd be doing things totally different.

1-1500 Trizact dry

2-3000 trizact wet

3-3M Extra Cut / Meg's M105 - wool pad (Micro-Surface TufBuf)

4-depends on the shop and how much time you're willing to take on the final product



If you final sand with 3000 it will reduce the need for a heavy cutting compound step that will surely cause more problems than anything good. Either way I really don't think only doing 2 buffing steps is a wise move, but again it depends on your shop requirement.
 
solekeeper- Why is that? Seems you shouldn't be handicapped when it comes to having the right stuff to do the job properly. Not like it'd be a waste of money overall IMO.



David Fermani said:
Every Body Shop I go into these days use [Trizact]..
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I bet Stoddard is using it :think: I'll have to ask next time I'm up there. My "good" painter is still using Mirka 99% of the time.



I kinda like the Mirka foam sanding pads... not that I know what I'm talking about here, but they seem better suited to a neophyte like me, were I to try machine sanding something. I *almost* bought their "Bulldog" sander system once but then I decided I could live without it.
 
bufferbarry said:
...[Trizact paper is].. the best stuff out there!
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Woah, that's one strong, unqualified opinion, and when *you* talk sanding media I pay attention :D Better than Nikken or Mirka huh :think:



My prejudices against 3M paper stem from the old stuff I used back in the day, and that [stuff] left some awful tracers. Glad to hear they're making better papers these days.
 
Production clears tend to be very hard. And when you're past a certain amount of

time, it gets stupid hard to buff... You really should try finish sanding to 2000 grit

at the very least.



Clear is not clear, That's like saying all compounds are the same.



Try this:



M105 with a good wool pad @ around 1000rpm. It's going to feel painfully slow;

as if your wasting valuable time. Slow steady passes with little/moderate pressure.

Small 1.5' x 1.5' sections at a time. It's hard not to but DONT rush it. Just give

this a try...



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