Snuggle

thanks for the link intermezzo. i looked for it but never found it.



those are the marks but way more than mine. i have a feeling he just filled them with hand SMR and zaino.



BTW all I have tried another 3M product called perfect it 3 finishing glaze. for this they recommend a 6 inch dual action sander and a foam pad 05729....or you can apply it by hand. i bought a DA sander and tried it that way but it's slow to remove scratches and leaves the 3D swirls only in a different pattern. i am going to try it by hand to remove the scuffs made by the rotory. i'm curious to see the results of the rotory at 1500, held flat, lite pressure, and a little more glaze.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Intermezzo [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>

GMN, are you talking about debaser330ci's post?

This is the link to his thread.

Look at my car now! By Debaser330ci

Dougn,
In order to truly remove surface imperfections as opposed to just filling them in, I found the following technique posted by someone that has over 20 years experience using rotaries:

<em class='bbc'>Take a rotary, lambs wool pad, at 1200 rpm, keep it fairly flat to the surface and a mild polish, doesn't make to much difference which kind, just a clearcoat polish and work them out. [/i]

<em class='bbc'>Then switch to a fine foam polishing pad and the same material and do it again. [/i]

<em class='bbc'>You will not remove enough additional clear to cause concerns. [/i]

<em class='bbc'>Then take time with the polish and a PC and foam for one more working of the clear. [/i]

<em class='bbc'>Clean it off with IPA and check it, if looks good , seal it up with a high-quality polymer sealant.[/i]

If your scratches are very light, you might be able to skip the lambs wool pad step. However, the point I'm trying to make here is that (Showroom or Andre, correct me if I'm wrong) after using the Makita, you may very well have some fine visible marks left over which would require further polishing using the same polish with a DA machine. [/b]</blockquote>
Yes you are correct.:bow
 
this all brings me to another question. what to do after machine glaze? i clean up with 3M hand glaze but then I'm stumped. what is IPA and what is a poymer sealant as opposed to a wax?
 
IPA = IsoPropal Alchohol. Check the terms link as it gives a bunch of other abreviations used on the forum.



Sealants = polymers that protect paint from UV and other environmental damage and are applied like a wax basically. Blackfire, Klasse, & Zaino are some examples.



WAX = a natural product made primarly from Carnauba. It provides some protection but not much UV protection. It does not last as long as sealants.



I suggest you check out the carport site and the e-book as it will explain all this in a lot more details.



HTH
 
Yeah... maybe not the best Topic Title for a forum on cars, but it got your attention right?

I belong to the ACD Club (Auburn Cord Duesenberg Club) and we had a discussion on bug removal on the forums.

Someone had a suggestion and a few of us tried it and it really worked.

Snuggle dryer sheets or any brand. Wet them and keep them wet and the bugs and tar magically wipe right off. Not only does your bumper look great but smells like "spring" in the end.

Also... it doesn't cut into your detailing budget, CAUSE you "borrow" them from the wife's laundry supplies.

Some members tried them on their Auburns and Cords, however since I don't own any ACD's, I've tried it on my 2001 Focus and a 03 Ranger.
 
I would be worried that there was some abrasives in the dryer sheet. When you feel them, there seems to be a little grit in them.~X(
 
I think I've heard of this before. I just wonder if it's marring some of the paints. I know it's recommended that you NOT use fabric softener sheets when drying your MF towels (causes marring), so I'm thinking the same applies to wiping the sheets on the paint too.


If it works for them that's all that matter really, but I can assure you they won't be touching may cars. :)
 
Yes I have been using this for about 2 yrs now. It works fairly well. If you get a bug that is caked on it will mare the surface, but if you are doing a paint correction it wont be to bad.
 
DJT said:
Yeah... maybe not the best Topic Title for a forum on cars, but it got your attention right?

I belong to the ACD Club (Auburn Cord Duesenberg Club) and we had a discussion on bug removal on the forums.

Someone had a suggestion and a few of us tried it and it really worked.

Snuggle dryer sheets or any brand. Wet them and keep them wet and the bugs and tar magically wipe right off. Not only does your bumper look great but smells like "spring" in the end.

Also... it doesn't cut into your detailing budget, CAUSE you "borrow" them from the wife's laundry supplies.

Some members tried them on their Auburns and Cords, however since I don't own any ACD's, I've tried it on my 2001 Focus and a 03 Ranger.
Click to expand...



Dryer sheets have been used to remove bug residue for a while, and to my knowledge nobody has ever had their paint fall off from their use. This doesn't mean they are the safest and best way to remove bug remains.

Re-hydration- When drier sheets get wet, the softener (usually stearic acid) and the surfactants will aid in quickly hydrating the bug guts, which will make removing them extremely easy. Think fully hardened concrete vs. freshly poured (wet) cement.

The biggest drawback to using fabric sheets isn't the chemicals inside them, it is the abrasive natural of the sheet as well as the sharp exoskeletal remains of the insects. The potential of a particular paint's ability to reflect light is most related to how flat/smooth the surface of the paint is. Perfectly smooth paint will reflect light sharply. The surface of paint that has micro scratches and swirl marks looks more like a mountain range. This causes reflected light to disperse (vs. reflect evenly).

The material of a dryer sheet is abrasive to paint/clear-coat and will, over-time, dull the surface if repeatedly rubbed against it. Depending on the color of the car, this effect could be immediate. Also the dry sheet is flat and traps and removed bug remains between the sheet and the paint (there is no nap to hold the remains off the paint). This grinds the 'hard' remains into the paint, causing swirl marks and deeper marks.

If you are going to use dryer sheets to aid in removing bug residue, here is how I would do it.

First, wash the section with soap and water to remove any loose grit and dirt that could scratch/swirl the paint). Use a jet of water to rinse, trying to remove as much bug remains as possible.

Wet a dryer sheet and apply it to the area over the bug residue. Let it sit on top of the bug residue for about 5 minutes. Remove the sheet (don't wipe it over the paint as this will scratch) and rinse with pressure again. The remains should have hydrated/softened to the point that the jet of water removes most/all of the remaining residue.

Wash one more time with soap and water to remove any drier sheet residue.

Alternatively, instead of using dryer sheets I use a dedicated bug remover like Stoner's. Mist on, let sit, rinse.

If you have VERY STUBBORN bug guts, you are going to need something abrasive to remove them, such as Bug Sponge. At this point you are likely going to have some marring/micro scratching of the paint's surface, but this is the least of your worries.

If bug guts have been allowed to harden to the point that removal requires dedicated scrubbing, the acids in the bug have likely permeated into the paint/clear-coat. This can lead to a dull spot stain, at best, and paint failure at worst. The very best thing to do about insect remains is to remove them frequently. Not only does this prevent needing aggressive/abrasive methods to remove them, but it will save your paint from the acidic damage of bug guts.
 
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