Slippery protectant to use OVER leather conditioner?

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deathshead

New member
Hi guys, My 2013 Fiat Abarth has red leather seats.

I want this leather to LAST!,

The car will be a daily driver, and im a BIG dude!, and i get in and out of the vehicle many times a day.



I will be using duragloss 221 leather conditioner on the seats as soon as i take delivery of the vehicle.



This may sound wierd, but I love the feel of super slippery leather seats!



I also have a theory that the slicker the seat the less wear it will see, as there is no "grind" when getting in and out.



Im looking for the slickest protectant I can find to go over the dg221,



Armor-all?

303 Aerospace protectant?



Any other suggestions?



Thanks!
 
The way to ensure durability of auto leather is to ensure it is always clean and free from abrasive dirt / grit



1. Clean - thre are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear



2. Hydrate – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes (finished leather (urethane ) doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation)



3. Protect - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off







“Automotive (Finished) Leather Upholstery” -http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...-finished-leather-upholstery.html#post1504256



I hope the information in this article is of some help to you. If you have any further questions please let me know
 
The more slippery the seat, the greater the chance for it to attract dirt/resoiling thus prematurely breaking down your seat surface's top coat. Not to mention the protectant bleeding onto your clothes. I'm afraid you'd have to stay on top of this regiment constantly for it to pay off. Plus, with you being a big guy in a tiny vehicle I think you're seat's destiny are stacked against you.
 
Go back to your dealership, clean off all that stuff before you do and pay them to apply the Chrysler Master Shield Leather/Vinyl Protector.

Yeah it will cost you but Chrysler has tested, used, sold, etc this product close to 20 years and it is "not a dressing", but a "permanent coating" that they warranty.

The dealer does not warranty it, but just like your Fiat's warranty, it's a "factory warranty", issued, honored by Chrysler Corp., so no "snake oil, etc have problem, never get it resolved sort of product that many dealerships sell".

Grumpy
 
Can you really re-hydrate coated leather? If the products out there aren't actually getting to the leather, but the coating, wouldn't that mean the damp cloth is just wetting the coating also, not actually getting hydration to the leather itself?
 
The old "wive's tale" of hydrating the coated leather used on the majority of new vehicles today is just that, an "old wive's tale", that is used to sell products to make people feel good.

You are correct, all the "hydrating products" do is set on top of the coating, gives a nice shine for a short while though.

The leather/vinyl product is very unique in that it breathes out but not in.

In other words it allows the leather to off gas, but will not allow moisture or body oils to enter into the leather, the two most damaging of things that can happen to treated leather.

It's base is the same as the UVGard in the ETR kit, just some chemical tweeks for use on factory coated leather and less shine.

Which means it also has some UV blockers in the product.

Unfortunately, the product, either under the Chrysler MoPar Master Shield label, or the ValuGard label, the Nissan labeled, etc products are not available to the normal detailing industry.

It must be applied on to "very clean leather or vinyl", so any oily products, dressings, etc must be removed before application.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Unfortunately, the product, either under the Chrysler MoPar Master Shield label, or the ValuGard label, the Nissan labeled, etc products are not available to the normal detailing industry.
Click to expand...



Why won't AI sell it to the 'normal' detailing industry? From what it sounds like it would be a great product to have, and a huge potential profit center as an add-on service just like the ETR kit is.
 
Agreements with the big volume guys who sell it their dealerships, who sell it to their new car buyers.

More profitable volume there.

You can probably order a case of it under the ValuGard brand, but without the warranties, as it is for new vehicles, some registration hoops to jump through, etc.

It's called "business".

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Agreements with the big volume guys who sell it their dealerships, who sell it to their new car buyers.

More profitable volume there.

You can probably order a case of it under the ValuGard brand, but without the warranties, as it is for new vehicles, some registration hoops to jump through, etc.

It's called "business".

Grumpy
Click to expand...



Gotcha. Figures they'd lock up distribution contractually.... just unfortunate for us "little guys" who do a lot of new car prep details like I've been getting lately.
 
There are a few MOPAR outlets (on-line) selling the Master Shield product...it's nearly $100 for a small bottle.
 
[The old "wive's tale" of hydrating the coated leather used on the majority of new vehicles today is just that, an "old wive's tale", that is used to sell products to make people feel good]



I agree with the above, but with one caveat; finished leather is hydrated with water vapour, not an oil-based conditioner
 
deathshead said:
This may sound wierd, but I love the feel of super slippery leather seats!



I also have a theory that the slicker the seat the less wear it will see, as there is no "grind" when getting in and out.
Click to expand...





You are right about less friction rubs on slippery leather seat.



Super slippery leather seats will certainly reduce friction wear to the leather finish; however, you may have to take care of soiling accumulation periodically as well.





#1 A typical car interior. . .

Mercedessoilstripping-007.jpg






#2 See the soil accumulation on the surface contact areas. . .

Mercedessoilstripping-008.jpg






#3 Application of restorative cleaning product, select a product that is able to remove old and ageing conditioner or protector including the silicone types.

Mercedessoilstripping-010.jpg






#4 Horsehair detailing brushes into the valley of the grain. . .

Mercedessoilstripping-012.jpg






#5 Returning to the original finish prior to protection or conditioning re-application. A leather-safe system is without the fear of physical harsh scrubbing damages and worries of streaks.

Mercedessoilstripping-013.jpg






This stripping is recommended as soon as soiling builds up to reduce damages or distorts the beauty of the finishes, easier to look for a system with matched product that takes care of routine, periodic and restorative care in a maintenance cycle.





Roger Koh

[email protected]
 
Fatliquoring - This is the wet-end softening process, known as fatliquoring. Oils are added in the tanning or retanning prices to make the hide soft and flexible. In the very old days leather was simply "stuffed" with oils and fats and were left to just sit in the fiber structure.



But over time, the oils migrated out of the leather and consequently the oils had to be replaced at regular intervals and so the idea of "feeding leather" grew in nomenclature and popularity.



If the oils were not replaced the leather would become hard, it would shrink and crack.



But leather manufacturing and the development of sophisticated chemicals has created oils that meet very high specifications.

These oils are typically full reacted to the fiber structure and as a consequence a minimal amount of the oil will migrate out of the leather. Because of this low migration it is really NOT NECESSARY to continually add conditioners and creams to replace lost oils.



Boy that blows a lot of commonly held myths about leather doesn't it?



Any comment on the above Dr
 
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