Single stage paint

Pretty much the same way I approach b/c, except a) ss is generally softer (white excepted, it's hard as a rock), b) I have more pads/MFs on hand as they can load up quick, and c) I'll more often use glazes, especially on older paints.



Don't freak out about all the paint transfer onto the pads, but don't keep polishing forever either. If it's original paint you don't want to thin it too much, and if it's a single stage repaint it might be a cheapie job that could turn out to be fragile/thin. And (again, unless it's white) don't forget it's soft; you don't want to cut through by treating it like a hard b/c.



Not much that standard products like 3m PI-III RC and MG (05933 and 05937) or the equivalent from other sources can't handle unless you're dealing with something really nasty. If it's *badly* oxidized* I'd either pretreat with something like #7 first (apply very heavy, leave overnight, *then* buff off excess and evaluate paint) or use a chemical cleaner that'll remove the oxidized paint. Once the oxidized paint is off, you can better evaluate and deal with marring/etc. In these cases I wouldn't clay until you've done such stuff, the clay will just load up with oxidized paint. But those extreme cases are sorta rare, at least in my experience.
 
S/S paint tends to be more oxidised by the time I get it.



In support of Accums great advice, I'd second the chemical cleaner being part of your arsenal.



I've have two oxidised jobs coming up soon - one red (yuk), one white ( :scared: ).



So I just ordered a few bottles (the last ones) of MPPC from ACC in preparation.



I can't wait to do the white one....not!
 
MPPC - Megs Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner.



A paint cleaner heavy with chemical cleaners (new VOC rules non-compliant, hence, discontinuance) and some abrasives.



Great for oxidation - chemicals tend to work better on s/s oxidation without having to get aggressive.
 
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