Single Stage Paint

I

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So, I've officially decided that I DO NOT like single stage paint.

My mother has a Taffeta White Honda Civic that is SS paint, and for the life of me, I have NO idea why some people prefer it over CC.

Time and again, I'm forced to go back to this car and polish of the vehicle.

I created a thread on Autopia about my escapades with this vehicle but got the boot before I could really finish it. The story goes something like this...

The car is neglected (big time) because my mother and I have lived quite far apart until recently and car care is not her forte. When I first got to it (probably during the winter) it was not even white and had staining all over the car. So, I washed, clayed and did a two step correction (has plenty of RIDS) so I chose M83 on a 4" LC CCS Orange, followed by M80 on a 4" LC CCS White. The car looked great.

I finished it with 476s x 2.

After two week, the car was filthy again (parked in the elements and it had faced some pretty nasty weather). Nothing to worry about, I figured, it had good old 476s on it. Hard as a rock, right? Nope.

After I washed it, it didn't look "white" and after closer inspection, the paint was stained again. The best way I can explain it, is like the dirt was imbedded in the paint. Same as before I did the big job, just in different areas and less of it now.

Back to the drawing board.

Then, on March 6, 2009 I decided to go at it again. I created a thread on MOL about my process. http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31004&highlight=White+Honda+Civic

Well, here we are about 3 months later (about 11 weeks) and I went out today to wash her car. Since March 6th it has only been washed three times. Once in April and twice this May, but on today's wash, I once again noticed that staining was back.

That is to say, AFTER I was done washing it, there were areas that just WILL NOT come clean with my car wash shampoo (Gold Class) and a lambswool mit). The ONLY way to take them out is with some type of polish (M80, M83, M205, M105, ScratchX, ScratchX 2, D151) all work but the car will NOT come clean with washing alone.

So, what's the story boys? I put another coat of NXT 2.0 on it today (which seemed to work better than 476s) but still not great either.

Is this normal for SS paint, or am I doing something wrong? Frankly, I didn't want to use Wet Diamond on it because I didn't think this car deserves it. LOL

Any thoughts because this is getting to be a real pain in my a$$?
 
Most cars painted after the early 90's were painted with base/clear. Not always true, but base/clear just has so much less oxidation.

Single Stage, especially older SS, tends to oxidize very rapidly in the elements (sun, rain, washings).

I polished a 68 Mustang with SS paint. It was painted in 88, so it was a 20 year old paint job.

I had your same experience. 3-4 weeks later it looked oxidized and horrible.

The best luck I had with it was Zaino Clearseal. It seemed to last about 2 months before starting the oxidation process again. I guess, if you used one of the "clear sealant" products frequently, you could keep it looking nice.

Final point... Once oxidation gets chalky, it's time to re-paint.
 
Luster said:
Most cars painted after the early 90's were painted with base/clear. Not always true, but base/clear just has so much less oxidation.

Single Stage, especially older SS, tends to oxidize very rapidly in the elements (sun, rain, washings).
Click to expand...


Unfortunately, this is a 2001 (not that old) and it is definitely SS paint. It's like it absorbs dirt, rather than dirt collecting on its surface. If you can imagine on a normal CC, the dirt collects on top of the clear and with some car soap and a mit, you just wash it away and by in large, the finish looks and feels good again.

Not so with this car. When you wash it, it looks much better, but on closer examination, you'll see faint brownish staining IN the paint (not on the paint). I can remove it, but within a few weeks it is back again.
 
User Name said:
Unfortunately, this is a 2001 (not that old) and it is definitely SS paint. It's like it absorbs dirt, rather than dirt collecting on its surface. If you can imagine on a normal CC, the dirt collects on top of the clear and with some car soap and a mit, you just wash it away and by in large, the finish looks and feels good again.

Not so with this car. When you wash it, it looks much better, but on closer examination, you'll see faint brownish staining IN the paint (not on the paint). I can remove it, but within a few weeks it is back again.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've seen paint like that, but I always assumed it was older than 2001! Sounds like premature oxidation to me.
 
Environmental Contaminants
Studies by vehicle manufactures and OEM paint suppliers have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants from a paint film surface can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished with a thorough chemical decontamination system.

Signs of Paint Surface Contamination

? Dark coloured specks
? Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks
? Yellow stains
? Small metal coloured flecks
? Rough texture
? ?Water spots? or marks
?Surface etching
?Oxidation
? Black / grey paint ?staining?

Application Directions
Three simple wash steps, no rubbing; see product containers for more details or visit the (Valuguard or Finish Kare) web site.

System comprises:
1.A is an acid neutralizer (ph 12.0) that removes waxes, storage stains and neutralizes acid deposits, a solution of an 8:1 concentrate /clean water , allow to dwell for 5-7 minutes before rinsing.

2.B is an alkaline neutralizer (pH 1.0) that is a blend of acids, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the ferrous metal particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Allow product to dwell for 5-7 minutes, works well with detailer?s clay to remove contaminants. All necessary safety precautions should be taken whilst using this product

3. C is a surface conditioner a 128:1 concentrate vehicle wash and the third step in the neutralization process, which ensures any chemical residues, are neutralized and rinsed away.

I've also found that using a d-limonene solvent type car wash concentrate helps keeping light coloured cars 'clean' and white vehicles 'white' (hope that makes sense) Chemical Guy?s Citrus Based High-Performance Wsh


An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles ? TOGWT ? Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved. ​
 
My wife's 07' Accord is Taffeta White too. I have the same problems you're having. I think that's just the way it is with any SS white colors. I'm sure you already read the article Mike Phillips wrote about white paint somewhere in the Autopia website.
The only thing I do is use an all-in-one like KAIO or ZAIO. They seem to get the paint back to it's original white pretty easily. It rarely lasts more than a month before I need to rewax though, since it's not garaged.
I also bought enough Mother's Clay System to accumulate a big bottle's worth of Mother's Cleaner Wax. I'll be trying that too.
 
I really have no idea why the paint is staining so easily, even with a coat of protectant.

In the past, I have seen clear coated vehicles develop some pretty severe staining after sitting for five months, but we live near an airport and the results are obviously skewed.

After reading all of your posts, my suggestions would be to repaint it, keep trying protectants, or have a clearbra placed over the entire car (sounds crazy, but it might work).
 
Hey User_Name, a little off topic, but I wanted to say, even though I didn't win the pool, I am really glad that you haven't been banned yet. :wink:

Mike
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
...., my suggestions would be to repaint it, keep trying protectants, or have a clearbra placed over the entire car (sounds crazy, but it might work).
Click to expand...

Some paints are so bad you just can't bring them back. (at the risk of going through to the primer).

I did a 1958 Chevy pickup with original paint. Used almost no pressure, because the paint was so thin. It removed the oxidation, but the shine was only mediocre.

Repaint is expensive, but it might be time.:iagree:
 
Luster said:
Some paints are so bad you just can't bring them back. (at the risk of going through to the primer).

I did a 1958 Chevy pickup with original paint. Used almost no pressure, because the paint was so thin. It removed the oxidation, but the shine was only mediocre.

Repaint is expensive, but it might be time.:iagree:
Click to expand...

I think repaint is the answer... except she's probably going to get something new.

Car has about 190,000km, still runs great but I think it's already paid for itself. Time for something new.
 
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