Should I use EX-P before AIO

Pro Polish has a bit of a learning curve. For best results, use very little product on your applicator. You will be amazed at how far just a few drops will spread. Work the product and then wait for the product to thoroughly dry before wiping off the residue. If you use too much product, or don't allow it to fully dry, you will have a hard time with product removal.
 
awd330 said:
Pro Polish has a bit of a learning curve. For best results, use very little product on your applicator. You will be amazed at how far just a few drops will spread. Work the product and then wait for the product to thoroughly dry before wiping off the residue. If you use too much product, or don't allow it to fully dry, you will have a hard time with product removal.
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Can I use the PC on any of these steps??Or is this all by hand??
 
You can use a PC with all of them. As a matter of fact I did Klassse AIO with my pc a couple of weeks ago and the results were awesome. However, with EX-P I usually do 2nd and 3rd layer by hand as the pc may diminish the 1st layer. Good luck and post some pics.
 
mtodde said:
I loved AIO + EX-P on my car...it is silver. What color is your car?
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My truck is black..and the mustang (stored away already:( ) is titanium..
Mustang has been getting Zaino treatment for the last 2 years...Everyone thought it was recently painted..But this fall-I used 3M R.C. And Polished it...
I want to start fresh next year....

I now use the Zaino for my Shoei ;)
SMALLHAT.jpg
 
mtodde said:
Klasse AIO + EX-P would look awesome on your Mustang!
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Very good to know..
Can't wait til next spring..
Car is stored and plates are only good until end of November...
Ahhh who knows..maybe I'll squezze in a shine and ride between now and then ;)
 
awd330 said:
Pro Polish has a bit of a learning curve. For best results, use very little product on your applicator. You will be amazed at how far just a few drops will spread. Work the product and then wait for the product to thoroughly dry before wiping off the residue. If you use too much product, or don't allow it to fully dry, you will have a hard time with product removal.
Click to expand...
Oh man..You can say that first line again..
OK..I just PB Pro Polished the Hood.
First half was applied by hand and then buffed off with MF. Not pad. Dried up fast and I was a little skeptical.
Next half applied by PC low speed..but I dropped a little too much..(not a lot..but I knew it was too much..)
I got scared..It dried up fast and left these little lines that looked like scrathces..I said WTF..So I started buffing with the MF..
I had to really buff hard with the MF to remove them..
By the time I got to the fenders..I basically learned the 'curve ' as you say of the product:
VERY VERY VERY..(should I say it again)..VERY little polish and VERY low speed PC.I should have memorized that part
And I buffed off with MF right away..no waiting. But since you say,"you should let it dry"..I'll do that.. it'll be easier..

Anyhow for now, result is..WOW!(wait no pics yet)
I followed with EX-P.This little beauty went on like butter...So one side done..and now drying out...Off to the passenger side..
I 'll be back..;)
 
UPDATE:
Did the whole truck.looks like glass .. :bigups :bigups
Then I looked on the hood and saw scratches..so I decided to re-do
Buffed it with orange pad using the SSR2.5. with PC.
I am impressed. The lines actually diminshed..I say diminished because They are 90% less than what they were...I can only imagine SSR3 or SSR2.5 with a rotary would be magic.
Anyhow..The PB line has left a great impression on me..I just ordered SSR1 and 3 for future jobs...
Thanks for all the help...

I'm just wondering if I would be able (or if it makes any sense from the 3M users- to apply PI III FG over the Natty's or just over the EX-P since 3M has Carbnauba in it...

Pics shortly fellas...
 
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