Should i get a Flex 3401?

I

imported_bored7one4

New member
I have a PC and detail a couple of cars but the results are good but not great like some of the pros here in this forum. I was able to get a free dewalt rotary to use but never got the chance to play with it yet. My girlfriend ask if i want the Flex for Xmas so dont know if I should waste her money on it when i have the PC and the Rotary already.



what you guys think i should do?
 
learn and master the rotary, use the pc for finishing. Spend the money on products that will help you. Or get something else cool. :)
 
I agree, learn how to use the rotary and with the pc you are in business. Get a gift cert and buy products.
 
Are you guys taking into account the OP is not a pro, just seems to be a hobbyist ("I have a PC and detail a couple of cars "), and that he has no money into the Dewalt ("I was able to get a free dewalt rotary to use")? I'm not arguing with your suggestions, just curious about your perspective.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Are you guys taking into account the OP is not a pro, just seems to be a hobbyist ("I have a PC and detail a couple of cars "), and that he has no money into the Dewalt ("I was able to get a free dewalt rotary to use")? I'm not arguing with your suggestions, just curious about your perspective.
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Is there such a word as "hobbyist", if so, I'm one of them. I love my Makita and PC. Is there anything wrong with a "hobbyist" learning how to use a rotary?
 
Legacy99 said:
Is there anything wrong with a "hobbyist" learning how to use a rotary?
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Nothing at all, I'm just not sure that everyone who is a casual polisher wants to go from a PC to a rotary...if so, there woudn't be a market for Cyclos and Flexes. The learning curve is longer for a rotary, if you only polish once or twice a year, not as easy to become proficient, and it's not as forgiving.
 
I agree with you, but since he has a rotary available and he already has a pc why buy a Flex? A rotary will correct most any defects that he might have and the pc will maintain the rest. Granted he still has to learn to use the rotary. But, he saved himself $275.
 
I was in the same situation not long ago and I did have concerns like Setec pointed out. However, 9 out of 10 guys said go rotary. So I went rotary. Im starting with my mother in laws car first:laugh:
 
I would say if you were a pro that grabbing a FLEX for those random situations where nothing seems to work would be a good call. But, as a hobbyist who wouldn't really be truly relying on always having a solution then you should be able to get by with a PC and a rotary.



Some might find my logic backwards, but I doubt any that do have all three buffers... :nana:
 
Lumadar said:
Some might find my logic backwards, but I doubt any that do have all three buffers... :nana:
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Ha ha...the dear departed Bill D used to refer to that as "the holy trinity" (PC, Cyclo, rotary) and in the other current Flex thread Accumulator admits to having those 3 plus the Flex 3401.
 
MobileJay said:
Okay so ask for the flex, sell the rotary and the pc buy your girl something pretty.
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Sheesh, you guys give up too easy, I was just talking this through, trying to look at it from different perspectives. Since you are a pro, the rotary route makes perfect sense, but if the OP only polishes once or twice a year and he's unhappy with his PC results, he may be just as unhappy with his rotary outings.
 
I will add this, users of the FLEX have posted about occasions where nothing else they tried would either A.) Finish out as nicely, or B.) Cut as effectively as the FLEX. In other words, because of the unique action it can out-perform a rotary for paint correction in some unique cases...something interesting to keep in mind.



I find it to be a great option for 1 step detail jobs because it offers aggressive cut but little to no risk of hologramming= effectively SAVING time.



For instance, there are some paints where M105 will leave a glossy and otherwise potentially LSP ready finish, save for minor holograms...but with a FLEX you could possibly be totally LSP ready.



I just like having the G110, FLEX, and Makita in my bag at all times because you never know what could happen...
 
Well, I started with a PC and it was a great improvement over rubbing on a car by hand. Then I realized that correcting paint was a long and tiring process (especially using 6.5" pads) but I've since learned that 4" ones speed things up nicely. I progressed to a Makita and tried 8", 7.5" and 6.5" pads - LC and Edge too. The only time I was really comfortable was using 6.5"PFW with 1Z Intensiv Polish, other times just didn't feel that great. I can run a rotary, but I don't care to. I thought about this for over a year and decided to take a big step and sell my rotary and buy a Flex. I have NEVER regretted that decision. Every car I do with the Flex, the better I like it. I has the power to correct and a much larger margin of safety that you don't get with a pure rotary machine. I know, I've had a few "opps" taking paint right off a piece of trim. But, I was lucky that the 2 cars that I got careless with were beaters and had paint missing in other spots. I'm not saying don't get a rotary or in the OP's case - use the Dewalt, they are great tools if you take the time to learn them, respect the power, and enjoy using them. But if you want something that is IMHO the best of both - get the Flex.
 
Lumadar said:
I will add this, users of the FLEX have posted about occasions where nothing else they tried would either A.) Finish out as nicely, or B.) Cut as effectively as the FLEX. In other words, because of the unique action it can out-perform a rotary for paint correction in some unique cases...something interesting to keep in mind.
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I experienced this on the bumpers of an '07 Porsche 911. The PC with small pads wasn't cutting the defects. The rotary was barely cutting the defects, but kept leaving holigrams that the PC wouldn't remove. The winner, after calling gmblack3a for advice ended up being the Flex with a white pad and SIP. Cut the defects, and left an LSP ready finish.



I now find myself spot compounding, and polishing out wetsanding marks with the rotary, but using the Flex on the majority of defects. I even polished out a hard, C5 Vette last month with the Flex, LC Orange, and M105. Didn't take me any longer than it would have with the rotary, and I didn't have to tape up the car.
 
Sorry Setec - I had my "opps" with the Makita, I was using a 8" green Edge pad and got the edge at a bad angle trying to get a tight spot and slipped and hit the trim. Rookie mistake, but I almost pooped my pants! Not a good feeling after working on an auto auction POS for 7 hours and thinking now what, fortunitely the car had a missing paint on the back door trim too so it was never noticed.
 
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