Sheepskin Mitt marringpaint ?

AntonV said:
i have nothing but good things to say about my detailed image lambswool mitt.



BUT...



i do think it was creating a few swirls. .
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how can you have nothing but good things to say if it was leaving ~any~ marring behind. if it did that (and it was the product, and not technique, over-use of product beyond its life, etc..) then it's a pile of crap.
 
Accumulator said:
[Accumulator climbs onto his carwash-topic soapbox...]



Here's how I test my wash media:



Needed- wash medium to be tested, bucket of shampoo solution, unmarred CD.



Test procedure:



-Dunk medium in shampoo solution, make sure things get not only saturated but also softened up (this can take a little while, something to consider when you wash too)

-Use shampoo-sodden medium to "wash" the data side of the CD, using the same amount of pressure you'd use when washing the vehicle

-Inspect CD for marring, using good lighting and magnification if needed



Once you ascertain that all your wash media are safe in-and-of themselves, you can start worrying about how to use them to move potentially abrasive dirt across-and-off the paint without marring it. That's the tricky part.



Here's a very short version of how I wash when using only mitts and a foamgun (i.e., in the absence of a BHB):



I don't consider the primary function of the foamgun to be the prerinse, in fact I hardly do that at all (just a cursory spray to "prewet" the surface). The big benefit IMO is the way the foamgun can provide constant flushing and lubrication of the surface being washed; it's a "dislodge and flush" approach. Here's my take on it:



The idea is to spray the foamgun output at the point where the wash medium contacts the paint.



Fill the mitt with shampoo solution and hold it shut at the cuff. Gently move the mitt short, interrupted, "jiggling" motions while spraying the foamgun output at the point of contact. Rinse out the mitt frequently, at the very least do it as soon as the shampoo you've filled it with stops seeping out.



Always inspect the mitt for residual dirt that didn't rinse out before refilling it with wash solution and resuming work.



Don't be surprised if the above approach is so gentle that you have to wash some areas more than once.
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That's a great idea using a CD to test for scratches!!



I'll have to try that with the Boars Hair Wash Brushes and other washing mediums.



Thank you
 
autoobsessed said:
That's a great idea using a CD to test for scratches!!



I'll have to try that with the Boars Hair Wash Brushes and other washing mediums.
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Just remember to "test it the way you use it". People have tested BHBs *dry* and, well...that's a good way to scratch up most anything :D So soak such stuff in shampoo mix until it's nice and soft ;)



The data side of a CD is generall a little softer than "average" auto paint (gee, whatever "average" means!) so while imperfect, it's not a bad benchmark.
 
Accumulator said:
Just remember to "test it the way you use it". People have tested BHBs *dry* and, well...that's a good way to scratch up most anything :D So soak such stuff in shampoo mix until it's nice and soft ;)



The data side of a CD is generall a little softer than "average" auto paint (gee, whatever "average" means!) so while imperfect, it's not a bad benchmark.
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Or you could just use ONR ..... sucker! :buffing:



:heelclick
 
it feels tacky like rubber.....i should really take a picture, the damn mitt is falling apart.



the backing can be seen.......needless to say i wont be using that mitt anymore.



the one mitt i have demoted is great...not sure where i got it from.....
 
I use the tan cuffed $16 wool mit from Autogeek and don't get scratches from it. I've also used the black cuff ones too but the one with the tan colored wide wrist cuff has a deeper pile.



They never last more than a season for me but I used to wring them out really good after rinsing. This year I'm taking it wet and throwing it right in the washing machine and spinning it dry. I'm gonna see if it holds up longer this way. I figure wringing it out (twisting) probably puts small tares in the sued and makes it fall apart faster. And I never wash it with laundry soap. I just flood it with water repeatedly, spin it, and hang to dry.
 
Isn't it *normal* for sheepskin mitts to fall apart after a while? Mine last long enough that I don't give it much thought when I need to get out a new one :nixweiss And I don't do anything special with mine either, just rinse/wring them out after each wash and let them air-dry hung over the edge of the bucket.
 
had the mitt since august. washed truck with ONR and MFs over winter.

so maybe 20 washes ??



not just falling apart but large sections missing.



going to target today and i will see what they have
 
i may or may not have eluded to the mitt being from AG...upon further review and a little searching..... it is not.....



it is from Sonus.............................bad
 
Yikes, I washed/dried a pair of my sheepskin mitts and they came out looking like twisted wool :eek: Extended soaking is having only minimal effect. Sigh...those were the ones I use on the "good" vehicles too, but they're not touching anything I care about until/unless they go back to being fluffy, individual strands.



I'm kinda :wall as I basically never wash/dry mitts and I apparently messed up a pair of nearly-new ones by trying to fix what wasn't broken :o



gav'spurplez said:
i may or may not have eluded to the mitt being from AG...upon further review and a little searching..... it is not.....



it is from Sonus.............................bad
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I dunno if the Sonus mitts are necessarily "bad" :think: :nixweiss I think I have some Sonus ones that're both real and OK, but that's just from memory.
 
i used MF bought from target..... kept them clean.. used 2 to wash, 2 to dry with the 2 bucket method.



i used a small MF sponge/frilly thing for my truck.....worked well, did not induce too much swirling.
 
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