WaxAddict
New member
Motivation
The point of this test is to convince myself, using waxes I might use, on real-world surfaces exposed to elements, that a second coat of wax, applied after adequate curing time, IS or ISN’T worthwhile.
Admittedly, there’s just WAY too many variables in this test for it to have meaning and value to some people. My hope is that a few of you will find it worthwhile, or at least amusing.
Please note that my use of the term “wax” refers to an LSP with wax in it, regardless of other ingredients.
I’m not considering pure sealant with wax applied on top, which is generally considered a worthwhile form of second coating. For the sake of this test, I’m talking about using the same wax for two coats, also known as layering.
Three Possible Reasons To Apply a Second Coat
Depending on who you ask, layering provides the following benefits: 1) it ensures proper coverage, 2) it lasts longer than one coat, and 3) it enhances appearance. Personally, I layer LSP to make it last longer. But, I may be wasting my time. I don’t know.
Proper coverage doesn’t concern me because my wax application method is very thorough, and I’ve never really noticed a discernable extra “pop” from layering waxes (of the same type).
The “Waxes”
I chose three waxes that I like, have used, and will use again. I purposefully left out some choices that may be off-radar, esoteric, or very short lived.
Collinite 476. Longevity and great looks. A perineal favorite of many, if not “old hat”, stinky, and finicky if you leave it on too long. 476 should have the highest amount of sealant-like ingredients of the three.
Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue. A “forum favorite”. Looks amazing, smells like bubblegum, and lasts longer than many other carnauba-heavy waxes. I’ve found that it’s great on all colors, but is marketed towards darker shades.
Chemical Guy’s Pete’s 53. Buckets of gloss. It’s like a less-expensive DoDo, or a longer-lasting P21S, but a bit more waxy and tacky-feeling than either.
The Test Surfaces
476 will be used on my 2002 Volvo’s roof, divided in half, where one side is 1 coat, the other is 2 coats.
Natty’s will be used on the driver’s side doors, with 2 coats on the passenger door.
Pete’s 53 was applied to my motorcycle’s saddle bags; simply, 1 coat for one, 2 for the other.
The Volvo will be outside 24-7 and driven 3 to 7 days a week. The motorcycle is ridden on weekends and is garaged, but I will put the saddlebags outside on occasion for more elemental exposure. This will represent a “garage-queen” type of exposure.
Prep and Application
Any existing LSP’s were toast on all surfaces before I began. Surfaces were waterless washed with PB Spray & Wipe, clayed until extremely smooth, and rigorously wiped down with CarPro Eraser.
The surfaces were waxed to achieve the first coat, then allowed to cure for about 20 hours. Waxes were applied thin, with careful attention to coverage and uniformity.
The Volvo’s roof was then divided in half, gently wiped down with distilled water, and one half was layered with 476. The passenger door was layered with Natty’s, after a distilled water wipe. One of the two saddlebags was waxed again with Pete’s 53.
Waxes were applied in my garage, which was 74 to 78 degrees. Mild humidity (for Florida).
Each test area had its own, new generic foam applicator and dedicated MFT’s. Removal was done with Poorboy’s DMT towels and final buff was done with RagCo Eagle Edgeless towels.
476
Natty’s
Notice the 370Z reflected in the Volvo
Pete’s 53
------------------------
Thanks for looking! I’ll get some beading shots up soon.
The point of this test is to convince myself, using waxes I might use, on real-world surfaces exposed to elements, that a second coat of wax, applied after adequate curing time, IS or ISN’T worthwhile.
Admittedly, there’s just WAY too many variables in this test for it to have meaning and value to some people. My hope is that a few of you will find it worthwhile, or at least amusing.
Please note that my use of the term “wax” refers to an LSP with wax in it, regardless of other ingredients.
I’m not considering pure sealant with wax applied on top, which is generally considered a worthwhile form of second coating. For the sake of this test, I’m talking about using the same wax for two coats, also known as layering.
Three Possible Reasons To Apply a Second Coat
Depending on who you ask, layering provides the following benefits: 1) it ensures proper coverage, 2) it lasts longer than one coat, and 3) it enhances appearance. Personally, I layer LSP to make it last longer. But, I may be wasting my time. I don’t know.
Proper coverage doesn’t concern me because my wax application method is very thorough, and I’ve never really noticed a discernable extra “pop” from layering waxes (of the same type).
The “Waxes”
I chose three waxes that I like, have used, and will use again. I purposefully left out some choices that may be off-radar, esoteric, or very short lived.
Collinite 476. Longevity and great looks. A perineal favorite of many, if not “old hat”, stinky, and finicky if you leave it on too long. 476 should have the highest amount of sealant-like ingredients of the three.
Poorboy’s Natty’s Blue. A “forum favorite”. Looks amazing, smells like bubblegum, and lasts longer than many other carnauba-heavy waxes. I’ve found that it’s great on all colors, but is marketed towards darker shades.
Chemical Guy’s Pete’s 53. Buckets of gloss. It’s like a less-expensive DoDo, or a longer-lasting P21S, but a bit more waxy and tacky-feeling than either.
The Test Surfaces
476 will be used on my 2002 Volvo’s roof, divided in half, where one side is 1 coat, the other is 2 coats.
Natty’s will be used on the driver’s side doors, with 2 coats on the passenger door.
Pete’s 53 was applied to my motorcycle’s saddle bags; simply, 1 coat for one, 2 for the other.
The Volvo will be outside 24-7 and driven 3 to 7 days a week. The motorcycle is ridden on weekends and is garaged, but I will put the saddlebags outside on occasion for more elemental exposure. This will represent a “garage-queen” type of exposure.
Prep and Application
Any existing LSP’s were toast on all surfaces before I began. Surfaces were waterless washed with PB Spray & Wipe, clayed until extremely smooth, and rigorously wiped down with CarPro Eraser.
The surfaces were waxed to achieve the first coat, then allowed to cure for about 20 hours. Waxes were applied thin, with careful attention to coverage and uniformity.
The Volvo’s roof was then divided in half, gently wiped down with distilled water, and one half was layered with 476. The passenger door was layered with Natty’s, after a distilled water wipe. One of the two saddlebags was waxed again with Pete’s 53.
Waxes were applied in my garage, which was 74 to 78 degrees. Mild humidity (for Florida).
Each test area had its own, new generic foam applicator and dedicated MFT’s. Removal was done with Poorboy’s DMT towels and final buff was done with RagCo Eagle Edgeless towels.
476
Natty’s
Notice the 370Z reflected in the Volvo
Pete’s 53
------------------------
Thanks for looking! I’ll get some beading shots up soon.
Like the stuff on your saddlebags too!
