Scratches in paint

[blkyukon]

Its surprising how effective a PC can be on swirls. I didn't have much luck with the 3M line when I was first starting out, so I switched to Meguiar's. By that time I think the learning curve had kicked in and I was much better at it. I probably need to go back to 3M just to see how well it works now that I've got six or seven years more experience under my belt. As long as you let the diminishing abrasives break down all the way then swirls are a lot easier to remove. I had really good results with the Sonus cutting pad before my backing plate shreded a hole in the middle of it. :lol I've usually stuck with either Meguiar's pads or Edge pads......

I've always have had good luck with the PC... it takes longer then a rotary to get the desired results but I can still achieve about 85-95% of what a rotary can. I will tell people what I can and can not get out before I start so there is no confusion when I'm done. As far as the 3M line I haven't used it for a while either (those pics of the 4Runner are about over a year or 2 yrs ago). Since then I've been using SSR3 with great results...That is what I used on that blue BMW above.
I had the same thing happen to my Sonus pads too :brick

My "go to's" for the PC are
SSR3 - for deeper swirls and scratches
DACP - for normal washing and drying swirls
IP - for light spiderwebbing
FP - for removing any hazing or micromarring
and VM or PWC for a little more wetness before the wax

 

[Sveta]

As long as you let the diminishing abrasives break down all the way then swirls are a lot easier to remove.

I have several questions along this line if you don't mind answering.

Judging how long to work the product, how much is too much product and at what speed to set the PC is difficult for me, a near beginner. I piece together things from posts but I wonder if I'm getting these concepts right. I also worry about running the PC too long at 5 or 6 and usually turn it down to 3-4 after less then a minute for fear of damaging the paint. I usually diminish but never fully remove all the swirls. I think they are maybe deeper "scratches" and don't want to damage a CC. Should I run at 5-6 longer to break down the product better? What does one SEE when a product has dusted well enough? Does it literally look and feel dry and dusty?

Is "break down" more a matter of time worked or speed used? Maybe this has something to do with why I can't get the results others do. Am I being too timid with the PC, etc.?

 

[jaybs02]

Sveta,
You didn't say what product/pad combo you were using, so that might contribute to you not getting the results that you want.

Here are a few good links one is from Tdekany and 2 from Blkyukon hope they help.
How I use the PC
Polish breakdown stages pt.1
Polish breakdown stages pt.2

Happy Holidays
"J"

 

[Limited-Liberty]

blkyukon, That is amazing :drool . I would love to get results like that one day. Now i see that you go right to the aggressive stuff when you use the PC. When you use SSR3 & DACP are you using the CMA orange pad all the time or do you use a CMA yellow pad? Well i guess it all depends on the condition of the paint but maybe you can list what pads you use with the different compounds you use. Man your work is great.


Oh by the way you are the one who showed me the light to this detailing craze!!!! :crazy I saw some of your work on SUVWORLD and you then told me about this site.

Thanks for now i am a detail fanatic!!!! :bigups

Mark

 

[Jngrbrdman]

I have several questions along this line if you don't mind answering.

Judging how long to work the product, how much is too much product and at what speed to set the PC is difficult for me, a near beginner. I piece together things from posts but I wonder if I'm getting these concepts right. I also worry about running the PC too long at 5 or 6 and usually turn it down to 3-4 after less then a minute for fear of damaging the paint. I usually diminish but never fully remove all the swirls. I think they are maybe deeper "scratches" and don't want to damage a CC. Should I run at 5-6 longer to break down the product better? What does one SEE when a product has dusted well enough? Does it literally look and feel dry and dusty?

Is "break down" more a matter of time worked or speed used? Maybe this has something to do with why I can't get the results others do. Am I being too timid with the PC, etc.?

The break down is created by heat and speed. Running the PC at a higher speed will definitely accomplish that. Its really a combination of speed and time. I start the PC at a 3 while I spread the product around the area that I'm working and then I kick it up to a 5 and run it at a 5 till the product is basically being buffed back off the car with the pad I applied it on. The "dust" is just clumping product that is no longer useful. They call it 'dust' for a reason though. You will definitely see the comparison. Its something that I plan on taking pictures of when I'm doing my PC article next summer.

Sometimes it takes more than going over the area once to get the swirls out. If the product you are using isn't working, then you either need to step up to a different pad or a higher product on the scale. I usually start with DACP and work my way up and down from there.

 

[swirls]

"For your information the car had never been detailed before it came to me, so they couldn't have been caused by a buffer, they were cause by gas station car washes"

That's what I just said. Those aren't 'cause by a buffer. As for the wash and wax, I meant "after" you detailed it. You said you detailed it 3 months ago, you haven't waxed it in 3 months? You definetley washed it 'cause a car don't stay that clean for 3 months. I know you waxed it after you washed it.
I just want one person to prove their steps are differen't than mine 'cause so far no one has and the same steps will leave the same swirls. Nothing personal I just haven't seen or heard proof yet and i've seen it before when a month down the road the swirls show up. Tell me your steps and i'll drop it, simple.

 

[blkyukon]

blkyukon, That is amazing :drool . I would love to get results like that one day. Now i see that you go right to the aggressive stuff when you use the PC. When you use SSR3 & DACP are you using the CMA orange pad all the time or do you use a CMA yellow pad? Well i guess it all depends on the condition of the paint but maybe you can list what pads you use with the different compounds you use. Man your work is great.

Thanks Mark!

Aggressive stuff it all depends on the paint, I will alway start on a panel and see what works best. With the 4runner I started with DACP and went up from there until I was able to achieve the desired results.

Pad stuff, again depends on the condition of the paint, I start with polishing pad and if that doesn't cut it then I'll go to a cutting pad.

Oh by the way you are the one who showed me the light to this detailing craze!!!! :crazy I saw some of your work on SUVWORLD and you then told me about this site.

Thanks for now i am a detail fanatic!!!! :bigups

Glad to see you here! Welcome to the obession and sorry for your wallet

This a great place to learn, there are a lot of very knowledgeable people here to help answer all of your question.

 

[mgm2003]

Swirls, It's going to be difficult for you to get any help if you continue to post with an abrasive tone. People on DC try to help one another out, offer tips & advise, share experiences, etc... Folks will be hesitant to share valuable knowledge if they are attacked in the forum. Chill out my man.

Moving forward I would suggest that you document your process, and outline areas where you want to improve. Then ask folks for help in a kind and considerate way. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the level of help you get. Sure it might take a few attempts to solve a problem, but I can tell you from experience that there's a heck of a lot of knowledge on this board to help you out.

 

[blkyukon]

I'm only replying to this for clarification

That's what I just said. Those aren't 'cause by a buffer.

Sorry misread your quote....so what do you consider a swirl?

As for the wash and wax, I meant "after" you detailed it. You said you detailed it 3 months ago, you haven't waxed it in 3 months? You definetley washed it 'cause a car don't stay that clean for 3 months. I know you waxed it after you washed it.

First the pictures are before and after removing the "imperfections" in the paint not after 3 months.

Second, the truck was washed and clayed before removing the "imperfections" and waxed after removing the imperfections.

Third, no the truck was not waxed for 3 months, because he brought it back to me after 3 months to have it detailed again. When he brought it back there was only light washing and drying marring on the paint, nothing compared to what you see in the picture.

I just want one person to prove their steps are differen't than mine 'cause so far no one has and the same steps will leave the same swirls. Nothing personal I just haven't seen or heard proof yet and i've seen it before when a month down the road the swirls show up. Tell me your steps and i'll drop it, simple.

In about a month on any car, if people don't wash and dry there car properly then "spiderwebbing will be introduced in the paint, but the swirls are not reappearing.

I have yet to see any polish/glaze or wax that will hide nothing more then very light marring for a week, let along a month.

Here is a shot of what a wax can hide:

Swirls maybe you should post your method and someone here might be able to help you get those swirls out..Good luck!

 

[Sveta]

run it at a 5 till the product is basically being buffed back off the car with the pad I applied it on. The "dust" is just clumping product that is no longer useful. They call it 'dust' for a reason though.

Very helpful, Jngrbrdman. Thanks.

That might be what I'm not doing. I think this means that near the end of the process it kind of looks like one is "removing" the last remnants of the "dry and dusty" product with the pad used. My mistake might be thinking the dryness of the product would cause the pad to put marks and swirls into the paint and I probably have been stopping short of really "dusting" the product.