Scratch resistant clear

[faisalalbalushi]

Hi Dear all



I have some questions about Ceramic clear





Questions is

1- what is the Advantage of Ceramic clear ?

2 - if we spray 2 full coat how many micron we will built and how many micon will Nano particle in clear ?

3- what is the Harden of cerqmic clear example opti- coat 9H ? so what about Ceramic and normal clear H ?

4 - if car been sprayed with Ceramic clear how can we know if this car been sprayed in body shop with Ceramic clear ?

5 - when we spray clear coat is there any solvent evaporations happen ? and how much ?

6 - after spray the ceramic clear when it get harden 100% ?

7 - is same manufacture ceramic clear harden we get if we spray here ceramic clear ? or manufacture ceramic will be more harden ?

8 - UV clear advantage and is it has same problem in polishing time ?

9- Which is more harden Ceramic clear or UV clear ?



I posted in Autogeek but did not get answer for all







Regards

Faisal Al balushi

 

[the other pc]

Hi, Faisal,



Most of the expertise you'll find from people around here is in working with paint that's already on the car.



I'm sure you'll get a lot more input if you post your questions on a forum that's dedicated to painting and autobody.





Good luck.







pc

 

[faisalalbalushi]

Iam new where is the right place ti post this questions





Thanks

Faisal

 

[the other pc]

I don't hang out in any painting forums, so I can't recommend any particular one.



But typing "automotive painting forum" into Google returned a few.



When it comes time to wetsand and buff, come on back here. This crowd is much better at polishing than most painters.





pc

 

[togwt]

This forum may help you answer paint / bodywork questioms - Autobodystore Forums

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Basic information regarding OEM applied CeramiClear, used on MB from information working with PPG and Azko Nobel 5 years ago.

Normal film build of clear, IE 1.5 to 2 mil.

OEM clears are heat cured, vs "refinish" clears, which are actually cured by an aerobic process IE, air moving over the applied surface.

The "dense" or "ceramic" of these clears is actually only aprox .2 (2/10th) of mil, as the particles rise to the top surface of the applied clear in curing.

So, if 2 mil of clear was applied, then 2/10th of the top is the "hard" portion, remove that and the clear will no longer be as resistant to marring.

OEM clears are totally cured within 48 to 72 hours as an industry rule.

Refinish is another issue, as the cure time will depend on various factors such as the carrier solvent used, the tempature, the humidity, amount of air volume moving over the surface and it's temp and humidity ratios.

From my work with these clears a few years back, the refinish applied ceramic clears do not get as dense(hard) as the OEM applied system.

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Basic information regarding OEM applied CeramiClear, used on MB from information working with PPG and Azko Nobel 5 years ago.

Normal film build of clear, IE 1.5 to 2 mil.

OEM clears are heat cured, vs "refinish" clears, which are actually cured by an aerobic process IE, air moving over the applied surface.

The "dense" or "ceramic" of these clears is actually only aprox .2 (2/10th) of mil, as the particles rise to the top surface of the applied clear in curing.

So, if 2 mil of clear was applied, then 2/10th of the top is the "hard" portion, remove that and the clear will no longer be as resistant to marring.

OEM clears are totally cured within 48 to 72 hours as an industry rule.

Refinish is another issue, as the cure time will depend on various factors such as the carrier solvent used, the tempature, the humidity, amount of air volume moving over the surface and it's temp and humidity ratios.

From my work with these clears a few years back, the refinish applied ceramic clears do not get as dense(hard) as the OEM applied system.

Beat me to it, Ron; I post on a paint and body forum and have been supplied with the same information about the refinish/OE ceramiclear. To me, it simply isn't worth using ceramiclear when coatings exist that can supply similar levels of scratch resistance while being more user friendly for polishing and finishing purposes.

 

[David Fermani]

Great info as usual Ron.



Keep in mind that "ceramic" is a word coined and recognized as "hard". There are many options that can be utilized in the paint industry, but why in the 1st place are you concerned? What kind of car are we talking about? You'll not only be exposing your vehicle to quite an expensive operation, but one that can truly make or break the appearance and ultimately the value of your vehicle.



Mercedes have nice paint from the factory, but that doesn't mean a non-MB paint just as good.

 

[timhazlewood]

<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">According to Tim's Auto Body, It's a paint system that's supposed to be more scratch resistant than non-Ceramiclear paints.

 


<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;">The problem is you can still scratch it so it's not scratch-proof<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> but scratch-resistant.<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> There's a huge difference in meaning<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> behind the two words.