safe srcub sponge

Carguy, I would think that using a folded up MF towel would be very tough to use in applying SG, so I'm not surprised by what happened.

As for a link to the MF applicator, here it is:

MF App

I get best results using it wrung-damp. Or you can spritz a light amount of Meg #34 on it.
 
See how great klasse looks without that haze Tony, :cool: . And I currently have #26 as a topper and the paint looks soooo wet, I will post a pic soon. Also I klassed the paint in my engine bay! and washed it (not degreased, just car wash soap).
 
No probs yet very pleased but I did notice the last time I used a lottle more SG (used more cause could not see it first two coats and felt I was not putting on any) It left a couple hazy spots I missed, boyIi wont do that again but a quick mist of #34 and some buffing took care of that. The key for me is to use very little amount of SG ( know SG is on pad cause pad is damp) and just do multiple coats so if you missed any hopefully by the third coat you got every spot.
 
Seriously cheap - that's the only way to apply SG, or even AIO for that matter.



I've got an SUV - and I here's how I used SG (obviously, this is per-coat):



Each is a nickel-sized portion, on a MF covered sponge applicator, dampened using Sonus:



3 - hood

1 - fender (x2)

1 - door (x4)

2 - quarterpanel (x2)

2 - tailgate

2 - bumper (x2)

2 - sills, jambs (x2)



A few thoughts:



Be cheap (did I mention that already?) - don't worry about coverage - you're going to apply successive coats of SG, so you'll be sure to get it everywhere. Thin is in, especially when it comes to SG.



Make sure the applicator is *damp*. Don't apply with a dry, or slightly dampened, applicator. You'll end up pushing more of the product into the applicator than into the paint.



Curing time - I grounded the car in the garage for three days, applying consecutive coats. About 6, over the course of three days - a few hours passed minimum before removing a coat and applying a new one. Each night, I'd leave a coat of SG on the car and remove in the morning. Time heals all wounds, and eases SG removal - the longer you leave the SG on, the easier it is to remove.
 
What a great thread, been awhile.



Only thing I noticed not mentioned was using a Koala type towel for removal. Way back in the day when I first used Klasse...said like Barney Fife....(hehe a whopping 5 months ago) had similar experiences.



I discovered with BF that the Koala towel worked great. I posted this and several people concurred that terry works well on polymers (they knew I just discovered). Tried with SG two weeks ago and it made a big difference.



Hope I'm not to far down to be missed!
 
The directions on the bottle say about 2 oz. per car. So I measured out 2 oz. and poured it into a ketchup type squirt bottle that is clear, so that I could monitor my usage throughout the process and be sure I didn't use more than 2oz. I finished the car with about 0.5 oz. left. Might be a helpful way to ensure you are not applying it too thick.
 
1.5 oz per coat is a very thick coat of Klasse or any other sealant unless you are detailing a <strong class='bbc'>very[/b] large vehicle. The first time I used KSG I applied .75 oz coat and it was still too thick by my judgement. That must have been a major PITA to buff . . . .
 
safe scrub bug and tar sponge is such a gem if you havent used it before
http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/saf-scrub.html

I have one thats a different name but Im sure its the same honey comb sponge that gets off the nastiest bugs and tar and today I use it on an old VW van roof single stage white paint that had turned black from mold or "whatever":scared:

Ive had a few single staged white roofs with the same problem where this sponge does an amazing job of getting it off .

Nice inexpensive thing to have on hand if you dont have it already!Also works great on bumpers with baked on bug guts !
 
DC - just got one of those in my last order from PAC. As delivered it is very hard, so I am hoping it gets much softer when wet. Otherwise it might make a nice sanding block :rofl:
 
grungy said:
DC - just got one of those in my last order from PAC. As delivered it is very hard, so I am hoping it gets much softer when wet. Otherwise it might make a nice sanding block :rofl:
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Let it sit in hot water before use and it will be soften up a ton. If it gets cold you can stand on it, but after it's wet, it is completely pliable and safe.
 
Thanks for the tip Luke! Yes, you can stand on it without crushing it while the material is cold :cursing:
 
Yes your suposed to let the soak for about 5 minutes I beleive. They hold a ton of water and soap

And YES its scary hard and rough and I was very sceptical about using it at first but Ive never had it scratch yet. I do tend to use it for the really nasty areas like rocker panels ,bumpers wheel wells.

Also you can take a razor blade and cut them into smaller peices .
 
I wouldn't be without mine. They are a little scary when you first feel them but after letting them soak in your wash solution for a couple minutes they soften up. I wouldn't "scrub" the paint with it but it works so well you really would't need to.
 
Would you use it on the paint of a black car?

The instructions do not say anything about soaking, just dip in soapy water and scrub.

I don't think I'll be using one on my black cars
 
Mr Gloss, my sponge may be different although they look the same and Im pretty sure they are the same thing. The directions on mine say to soak for 5 minutes. Mine says"sure scrub"on the label

Some clearcoats are so soft I would be really careful on black clearcoat. Im sure Ive used it on the lower panels on black but it wouldnt be my choice for the rest of the panels unless I tested it first .

Its really just for problem areas and not a go to everyday sponge you would use all the time.

Use caution and common sense with this sponge .:smile:
 
Mr. Gloss said:
Would you use it on the paint of a black car?

The instructions do not say anything about soaking, just dip in soapy water and scrub.

I don't think I'll be using one on my black cars
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I have and will continue to. It has caused no problems at all with both hard and soft paint.
 
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