S100 Products-Thoughts

mnehls86

mnehls86

New member
So I have a buddy with a few bikes and he asked if I wanted to detail one. I'm sure if the one comes out good then he would want the others done someday as well. I told him I would think about it mainly because I wanted to see your guys thoughts on S100 products since they are made for bikes. Should I order some S100 stuff? Or can some of you give me a break down of what you use for what sections that aren't S100 products. Or should I just say no thanks and pass on the bike?:D

Oh yeah. If I say yes he is planning on bringing it to me after his 4,000 mile road trip and I'm sure it'll be pretty nasty.
 
S100 products work pretty good in my opinion. I used them on the bike I just posted up and also on my own bike. Another great thing to have is a set of Wheel Woolies or Daytona brushes. I like their total cycle cleaner, seems to work pretty good along with their engine brighter on Harley's. I have not used any of their other products. You can simply goto your local Harley dealer and they should carry these products. Most of them in my area do at least.
 
I can still remember when S100 paste wax was all the range on the forums. Unfortuately you don't hear about it anymore with all of the hype over sealants and coatings. If you google the S100/P21s debate it will keep you busy for hours.

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner is supposed to be a direct equivilent for P21S Total Auto Wash
S100 polishing soap is the same as P21s.

S100 products are great and work. Being able to get them locally is a huge plus. I think I still have like 3 jars of S100 :)
 
From what I've heard, S100 Total Cycle Cleaner is the same as P21S Total Auto Wash. P21 and S100 are obviously the same company. That being said, P21S makes killer stuff so....

I own and use S100 Total Cycle Cleaner on my motorcycle, but only behind the headers where it gets very gritty. It's basically a good APC and requires a good rinse afterwards. I can't speak for the other S100 items.

THAT being said, I know you can detail a bike to stunning levels without ever touching any motorcycle-specific products. For the most part, I think they're a gimmick. Think mild, and you'll be fine.

edit: Pat covered a lot of my thoughts as I was typing :)
 
Ronkh said:
Only thing in the line I tried was s100 wax

looked good for the 3 days it lasted
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LOL. Thanks for the input guys. Yeah I wasn't really interested in the waxes but more of the cleaners for cleaning up the motor and around the motor.
 
WaxAddict said:
THAT being said, I know you can detail a bike to stunning levels without ever touching any motorcycle-specific products. For the most part, I think they're a gimmick. Think mild, and you'll be fine.
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Sweet. Can you expand a little on what you use. I was thinking motorcycle specific to ensure I don't mess anything up but I would love to hear some other options and the process you use.
 
mnehls86 said:
Sweet. Can you expand a little on what you use. I was thinking motorcycle specific to ensure I don't mess anything up but I would love to hear some other options and the process you use.
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Simple Green 1:10 (or S100) for grime, such as under fenders, on the swing arm, etc. Also excellent for wheels (and safe for tires). Rinse well but not with a strong stream. Don't use dressings on the tires (for safety reasons) just try to get a black look by cleaning.

For stubborn spot cleaning on the swingarm/transmission area I use WD40 then a rinse with SG. Spray the WD40 onto the towel, not the bike.

If there's a windshield, be extremely careful, they scratch very easily. DON'T use you microfiber on these. I use Cee Baileys cleaner and the Dupont wipes they offer. Cee Baileys | About Us

303 on anything that'll take it, except tires. Wipe down jacketed cables with 303. I've used Solution Finish on the black switch housings on the handlebars to great effect.

Use your intuition on polish and LSP. Accidental product splatter and slinging from a DA can result in a major cleanup effort and may stain exposed hoses, wires, grommets, bushings, etc. Cover things judiciously!

As far as not messing things up, just use common sense. Don't use high pressure. Don't spray directly into cavities that may contain wiring. Cover the tail pipe(s) with a plastic bag and rubber band. I also cover the instrumentation.
 
WaxAddict said:
Simple Green 1:10 (or S100) for grime, such as under fenders, on the swing arm, etc. Also excellent for wheels (and safe for tires). Rinse well but not with a strong stream. Don't use dressings on the tires (for safety reasons) just try to get a black look by cleaning.

For stubborn spot cleaning on the swingarm/transmission area I use WD40 then a rinse with SG. Spray the WD40 onto the towel, not the bike.

If there's a windshield, be extremely careful, they scratch very easily. DON'T use you microfiber on these. I use Cee Baileys cleaner and the Dupont wipes they offer. Cee Baileys | About Us

303 on anything that'll take it, except tires. Wipe down jacketed cables with 303. I've used Solution Finish on the black switch housings on the handlebars to great effect.

Use your intuition on polish and LSP. Accidental product splatter and slinging from a DA can result in a major cleanup effort and may stain exposed hoses, wires, grommets, bushings, etc. Cover things judiciously!

As far as not messing things up, just use common sense. Don't use high pressure. Don't spray directly into cavities that may contain wiring. Cover the tail pipe(s) with a plastic bag and rubber band. I also cover the instrumentation.
Click to expand...

IMHO

Stay away from simple green

It can pit/stain stainless and aluminum

Use a quality apc
 
Ronkh said:
IMHO

Stay away from simple green
It can pit/stain stainless and aluminum
Use a quality apc
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I'm sure Megs, Mothers, PB etc. are better APCs. Follow Ronkh's advice on this. Personally, I'm fine with Simple Green and the 50 cents per bottle it costs me, but I am very anal about rinsing and wiping, and following up with detailers and 303 will get rid of any lingering SG, but still, yeah.
 
WaxAddict said:
I'm sure Megs, Mothers, PB etc. are better APCs. Follow Ronkh's advice on this. Personally, I'm fine with Simple Green and the 50 cents per bottle it costs me, but I am very anal about rinsing and wiping, and following up with detailers and 303 will get rid of any lingering SG, but still, yeah.
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me old, fat lazy
 
WaxAddict said:
Trade ya my Simple Green!
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Already have some haha. I use it to clean my garage door every now and then. Bought 16oz a few years ago and still probably have 14oz left. Maybe even 15oz left if you count what is still in the diluted spray bottle.
 
don't think you have to stay with "for motorcycle only products" to be safe. good car type products will do you fine. think about applying a good coating, motorcycle finishes take a beating. don't use tire shine type products on motorcycle tires, if they run onto the tread, there will be a serious problem. same goes for seats, no slick products. I just recently opti coated my ride, before that , I used bfwd, bfms, bfcs, etc. I like lexol for leather.
 
tropicsteve said:
don't think you have to stay with "for motorcycle only products" to be safe. good car type products will do you fine. think about applying a good coating, motorcycle finishes take a beating. don't use tire shine type products on motorcycle tires, if they run onto the tread, there will be a serious problem. same goes for seats, no slick products. I just recently opti coated my ride, before that , I used bfwd, bfms, bfcs, etc. I like lexol for leather.
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I still have a couple weeks so I am still deciding on CQUK or Hydro2 on it. I will have to give some lexol a try. I am in need of a new leather cleaner and conditioner.
 
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