Rotary w/ Optimum Compound

S

s2skimon

New member
I'm not too enthralled with Opt. COmpound and my rotary.



I was testing it on a red honda trunk lid from a junk yard.



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I was using my rotary @ 1000, 1200 with Orange Pad and the Opt did not break down as nicely after a quite some time with some heat being generated. I got to the stage where my rotary started to bounce and then really appeared to haze.



So i used the MF towel and wiped the residue off. It turned okay but i found results with my DACP better.



OPtimum left a haze of which i had to wipe off. When I did wipe if off, the swirls were gone but to my surprise, it did not leave a "pop" like DACP did.



So I hit it OPtimum POlish, same settings and again, it did not appear to make any difference.



So i decided to go over it again, added another "ring" of polish on my pad. Except this time i tried it on for longer, but only found that it developed these little "blotches" of residue of which i had to wipe really hard to remove.



Also, i saw the red paint come off and onto my "orange pad" which formed a dark red circle.



should the red paint have removed so ?



it appeared to give better results when i spent less time working it in, a minute or two, then a quick MF towel wipe ?



what of these little blotches that appeared ?



what i did like was the NO sling factor.. and it gave decent results.



Suggestions ?
 
Yes, you should be drawing a little red paint as that's normal for factory Honda red paint. You probably got hopping from all the dead paint that was being removed. A cleaning of the pad and reapplication should have taken care of that. I would use a dedicated paint cleaner to remove the oxidation, clay and then compound/polish. That way you get a better idea of the paint condition and how much swirl removal you really need to do. In some cases you may find that you don't need to compound but light polishing will take care of the marring that remains.
 
Well, simply put, they're different chemicals and you'd get a different response if you used Menzerna polishes too. I was just giving you ways of having more success with the Optimum polishes from my experience.
 
I think SpoiledMan is right. I mean think about it, Dual Action Cleaner Polish vs. a dedicated Compound. The cleaner polish will produce better results 9 times out of 10 especially when compared to a compound. I've never experienced any problems with OP in terms of shine though. That one I cannot explain!



JJ
 
I'm puzzled here also as Opt has always produced great results in the areas of results and gloss. The Black Olive Cayenne I just posted up in the Click and Brag section demonstrates just what the Opt Polish alone can achieve with various pads.



I would give it another go, shake the products well, keep the rpm's between 1200 and 1500, go at it. Also, the skipping can be due to the amount of oxidation being removed, as already noted. Go over the area once more with Opt Polish and a mild polishing pad and then clay it and then polish it again with the Opt Polish and a finishing pad.



Lastly, by the picture you posted I would say it did a great job as you can really see a huge difference.



Anthony
 
Yesterday finally got hold of the Optimum Compound and tried out the full Optimum system on a black Honda City. The whole process is completed with a PC and I must say the compound and polish really save me lots of time and sweat :xyxthumbs .



Scratches on the hood and heavy swirl marks all over the car.

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After the process, OC/cutting pad -> OP/polishing pad -> OCW, this is how the car looks like,



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Personnally I find OC cuts better than PG on a PC, OP finishs up as good as FPII and OCW gives a very wet and shiny look to the car :2thumbs: .
 
Truth be told, I've tried the compound a few times, and i don't find it

nearly as effective as Powergloss or OCP when applied by rotary. It

seems to do much better by PC, however. I have to use the most

agressive pad (usually the Meg's maroon or even the LC yellow) to

make any headway.
 
I got all sorts of rotary "holograms" with Optimum but none with DACP.. what gives ?



I'm using an orange constant pressure pad at speed 1000 , 1200 and got em..



I had to use 1200rpm w/ DACP and it removed 'em all..
 
This might sound painfully obvious - but are you getting all the residue off when you wipe after the polishing pass? OC is kind of oily, so it can be hard to remove completely. Otherwise, I don't know - you're results don't seem consistent with other results. :confused:
 
I feel that you (problem guys) are using waaay too much product. The blotchiness, smearyness and the reduced effectivity is caused by too much product.



Tumbler wrote that he applied a ring onto his already primed pad. This made me think that the product quantity must be the cause of all problems. On a primed 6 inch pad I use about 1.5 to two inches of product - yes, from the normal fliptop, which means a thin stripe of OCC or OCP (1.5 mm hole).



I got consistent results, excellent gloss and the products are always easy to remove regardless the state of the work/breakdown. They work really quick too. Just remember, four 0.5 inch stripes is enough on a primed pad. For priming I draw a circle about 1.5 inch from the edge of a 6" pad, and then draw a 4 leaf clover into the circle. That's it.



One difference: I use them with a DA on speed 6.
 
aww.. could be too much product..



i did use a thin ring ..



shall i then use a dab at or very small circle at the 12 o'clock position, 3 o'clock position , 6 and 9 ?
 
With Optimum you must use less than usual. If you use too much, they can slide and skate over their own polishing oils without being really effective, so the proper amount is essential.



Prime the pad with two thin, concentric circles, then use four little (half inch long) stripes/lines. Just as thin as it comes from the fliptop. That means 1.5 × 12 mm each.



I am using Swiss Riwax pads which are surprisingly solid, and they can rotate with the PC not just jiggle. They work like a charm, spreading the polish and compound very effectively.
 
Prime the pad with two thin, concentric circles, then use four little (half inch long) stripes/lines. Just as thin as it comes from the fliptop. That means 1.5 × 12 mm each.
Click to expand...



i don't understand.. circles ? then four strips half inch long ?
 
No, I think he means one cirecle around the perimeter of the pad and another inside of that to prime. And then at each panel 1- 1/2" line each at 12 oclock, 3 oclock, 6 oclock and 9 oclock.
 
wow.. then that's more product than i had on in the first place..



as all i had was this much, with no second circle..



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