Rotary Video, tips and stuff to avoid

B

BillNorth

New member
neutralization system. Dave Luckanuck is nice guy. He actually came to my house and delivered the package. He was dropping some product off at one of the local dealerships, and he just swung over here and dropped the stuff off. He saved me a bundle of $$$ in shipping. He didn't have any more gallon jugs to sell me of the "C", so he threw a smaller size in at no charge. That was very nice of him.



Now that I have the system, I have another question. While reading the supplied application instructions, it says that a paint sealant should be added to complete the process. What would happen if I didn't use a sealant after? Would I be compromising the integrity of the vehicles paint in any way? Does the neutralization system weaken the paint or change the paint in any way that would make a sealant mandatory after application?



I ask because I plan on practicing on the old car, but I have no intentions of sealing it after. Just not enough time to do it. I was under the assumption that the system just deep cleaned the paint.



Would a carnuba wax suffice as a sealant? I do have klasse, but I don't want to waste it.



Sorry for all the q's Ron. Thanks for your help.



I'd be lost without you.:)
 
I think I can cover some questions.



If you did not apply a sealant after using the ABC system, then the car would have no protection on it. The ABC system will deep clean the paint and remove the IFO, some overspray, rain dust, and all wax/sealant protection. You won't be compromising the paint then, but it will get re-contaminated and more prone to clear coat failure. The neutralization system does not weaken the paint, it just deep cleans it so protection afterward would prevent re-contamination.



Waste Klasse?? How bad is 2 oz of AIO out of your supply?



:confused:



I think a carnauba will suffice, since Valugard does make the Creme Wax with carnuba and polymers in it. It just has to re-applied more often.



Hope this helps,

Jason
 
Thank you for the response. Have you used this system yourself?Any feedback?



You're right, i'll only be using a bit of klasse. :D I'll go ahead and put some on afterward.



Take it easy.
 
Your Welcome :)



I have not tried the ABC system yet, the sample bottles are just sitting there.



I hope to try it soon, but don't know yet. Just will try it out when I have a car to use it on.



Later

Jason
 
Jason is 100% right about abc, when youa re donet he paint will be completly clean and there will be no protection. If you dont really care about the car I guess whatever yuou put on will be ok, but why not use the klasse and see how good it will look ?



BTW I use ABC on a regular basis so if you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me.
 
Detlman said:



Jason is 100% right about abc, when youa re donet he paint will be completly clean and there will be no protection. If you dont really care about the car I guess whatever yuou put on will be ok, but why not use the klasse and see how good it will look ?



BTW I use ABC on a regular basis so if you have any more questions feel free to e-mail me.



Brian, thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. I may just take you up on it.



Later everyone.
 
Just wanted to share my experience with the A-B-C system. It is extremely easy to use and in about 20-30 minutes time, all tar, bugs, stains were easily removed without scrubbing or using any additional products. Without a doubt, it reduced prep time dramatically and I was able to move directly into polishing / sealing the paint on a 2000 Chrysler 300M-it was positively glowing after the cleaning. A time saver that really is recommended by a enthusiast, not a professional.
 
I use A any time I want to strip a car (or part of a car) of all waxes and sealants and it works effectively. I don't use B every time... depending on how well the car has been protected I often find that the fallout (and other stuff that b takes care of) is actually lodged in the wax/sealant coating and is gone after the A treatment. C is my standard car wash and its a bargain.



You definitely want to get protection on your paint asap after completing the process. I always move immediately to applying AIO or Autoint's OEM One step.



Steve
 
This is my plan. Let me know if you see any problems with it.



1. ABC

2. Clay to smoothe out the surface. I have 3m clay.

3. SMR to remove my swirls

4. AIOx2

5. SGx3(with 24 hour cure time between coats)

6. Blitz if I'm not happy with just SG



All of this will be done without the use of a PC. Just good old elbow grease some foam pads, and charismas for buffing. I'm going to do this over a an extended period. I don't want to rush. I'll probably do 1 and 2 on Friday after work, 3 and 4 on Saturday, and 1 coat of 5 on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday, and then 6 next Saturday or Sunday. I won't be driving the car anywhere until 1 coat of SG is on the car. And I'll be washing the car before I apply each additional layer of SG.



I'll clean my rubber with EFHI and Dawn to rid myself of the browning. I'll scrub the exterior trim down with EFHI. The rims will be cleaned with a 50/50 mix of EFHI and water. The rubber and trim will be protected with 303.



Question:



How do you guys apply "B". It dosen't need to be mixed with water, that I know. Do you pour some in a bucket and use a mitt? How much should I use for one car? And lastly, why is it only supposed to be applied to horizontal surfaces?



THANKS, YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!!
 
Bill - I apply B using a squirt bottle and a dedicated chenile wash sponge instead of a mitt. I squirt B directly onto the chenile and apply to the surface. I'm sure a more experienced user can tell you why only the horizontal surfaces get B - I believe its b/c the contaminates it addresses typically 'settle' on those surfaces and that b can be a little rough on trim.



Steve
 
After rinsing the "A" product with a copious flush of cold water, you only need to dry the horizontal / flat surfaces. Then, use a spray bottle (new, clean bottles sold at Target / Wal*Mart) to apply the "B" to a mitt, applicator sponge, etc. The instructions included in the TSBs on www.autoint.com state that the "B" product should be applied / agitated down the sides to the bodyline, followed by a rinse and wash with the "C" product. Also, you probably will use 16 oz. of "A", added to a gallon of water and you'll probably use about 10-12 oz. of the "B".
 
My technique is like what you're suggesting. The multiple fast passes don't work at all with an RO, and since I learned on a PC and Flex, I stuck with it using the rotary. I think some people feel like they have to keep a rotary moving fast to keep from burning through the paint, or maybe they just think they'll finish faster if they move the polisher faster. Another thing I noticed in your video that you didn't actually say was that some people rock the polisher over when they change directions, so that the trailing edge of the pad was under more pressure than the leading edge. I don't see any point in this and always try to keep the polisher flat, like your second demo. Nice video.

Billy
 
David - thanks for the great video! Seeing you do it and explain what you are doing helped me understand how to improve my technique immeasurably! :notworthy:
 
Thanks David! Excellent information. I've seen guys with a rotary going at it like they're possessed! Mad-fast passes, jacked up to 5000, compound flyin'! Crazy! ( I like your method much better!)

Question:

I've only used a PC and I know with KBM pressure is an essential part of the procedure... basically, keep the pad spinning.

1. For compounding, mid-step, and fine polishing with a rotary, how much pressure is necessary?

2. For compounding, mid-step, and fine polishing with a rotary, what RPM speeds do you recommend?
 
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