Rotary speed?

C

clnfrk

New member
From what I have seen so far many members here seem to like to keep the buffer speed around 1000-1500rpm. I tried this speed with my Hitachi rotary yesterday and it just seems to me like thats an awfully slow speed to actually accomplish anything. Usually when I use it I set the dial to around 4 or so. Is that too fast because that speed feels about right to me?
 
I just did a car with Four Star 4-40. I used 1500 rpm for the entire vehilce. There where some scuff marks on the car where I used Poorboy's SSR3 and 2000 rpm and I never had the need for anything higher than that.



What chemicals and pads are you using?
 
Danase said:
I just did a car with Four Star 4-40. I used 1500 rpm for the entire vehilce. There where some scuff marks on the car where I used Poorboy's SSR3 and 2000 rpm and I never had the need for anything higher than that.



What chemicals and pads are you using?
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Well, I didn't actually end up doing that job with the rotary. I used a PC. I did try that speed out with the buffer on a small section and it felt to me that a PC on speed 3 probably spins faster than the rotary at that rpm. Definitely no chance of burning paint at that level. I just don't see how imperfections can be corrected with the rotary set that low?
 
DUDE! #4 on the Hitachi is 2300RPM... not a good idea!



I just did a whole Expedition with Megs #80 and polishing pad with 1000-1100 RPM, no higher. Worked just fine and was fast enough.



The whole way a PC works shouldnt really be compared to a rotary.. two totally different worlds. You dont need a whole lot of speed with a rotary to correct paint issues.
 
I usualy work 1500-1800 sometimes even 2000.



Its really your personaly prefrence. Remember its not the rpm's that burn paint, its the user.
 
Try polishing an area with the PC set at 5, and feel the temperature of the paint afterwards. Then try polishing a similar area with the rotary at around 1500 rpm, then feel the paint. This should give you an idea of the work done by the rotary.



Or try to compare how fast the polish breaks down between the two areas. If you polish the same size area, with the same pad, and same amount of product, there should be a dramatic difference in the time it takes for the two machines two break down the polish.
 
I had a repainted Toyota Yaris with extremely hard paint, where I had to use HTEC at 2300 RPM with serious pressure. Otherwise I don't go above 1600.
 
35TH LE said:
DUDE! #4 on the Hitachi is 2300RPM... not a good idea!



I just did a whole Expedition with Megs #80 and polishing pad with 1000-1100 RPM, no higher. Worked just fine and was fast enough.



The whole way a PC works shouldnt really be compared to a rotary.. two totally different worlds. You dont need a whole lot of speed with a rotary to correct paint issues.
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yeah . .. i second this. PC on speed 3, even 6 for that matter will not even come close to a rotary at 1000 to 15oo rpm . .



its like comparing a saturn to a corvette . . .



iv got a beater that i play around on with my hitachi . . . ive even tried 4'' pads on that beast at 2k rpm on my rear bumper that is just destroyed to begin with , and beleive me, you can do some serious correction and some serious jean claud van danguage on paint with one of those bad boys . . .



try your rotary out again, 1k rpm to begin, move slow, but steady and continiously with even pressure, watch yoru edges very carefully, and especially rubber trim and for plastic panals that are apinted, stick with your pc until you have a chance to get some serious practice in. plastic is very finniky . . . i warped a section on my rear bumper from cranking my rotary to 2200 - but it didnt burn the paint . . . weird . . .



good luck
 
I have a PC 7428 Rotary and I never ever go above 2000 I always stay at around 1500, which unfortunately there is no setting so I try to just put it inbetween 1 and 2. What amazes me is the 7428 goes up to 6...what the heck am I going to do at 6 other then maybe cut down a tree.
 
Bence said:
I had a repainted Toyota Yaris with extremely hard paint, where I had to use HTEC at 2300 RPM with serious pressure. Otherwise I don't go above 1600.
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weird. I know my Lexus has soft paint. Anything over 1,600 RPM's you are playing with fire.
 
Yes, almost all Toyotas have soft/er paints and are easily correctable. Not this one. This was wrecked. I sanded it with a 4000 grit Mirka pad on the DA and the resulting surface was no different than the original, surrounding panels. I started with OHC, and it cleared up the surface nicely and quickly - to reveal ugly nasty scratches. These were no nail-catchers, so I decided to move upwards. 1800. Nothing. 2000, still nothing. New pad, HTEC, nothing! Speed up to 2300 and finally it cooperated with me. The panels were hot! The strangest part was that it was mostly LSP-ready after this pass - especially being dark blue! I used even mixed lighting (LED, Xenon, fluorescent, incandescent), but there were no holograms. Still, I decided to go over with OP/black and then sealed with #21.



My strangest experience...
 
Bence said:
Yes, almost all Toyotas have soft/er paints and are easily correctable. Not this one. This was wrecked. I sanded it with a 4000 grit Mirka pad on the DA and the resulting surface was no different than the original, surrounding panels. I started with OHC, and it cleared up the surface nicely and quickly - to reveal ugly nasty scratches. These were no nail-catchers, so I decided to move upwards. 1800. Nothing. 2000, still nothing. New pad, HTEC, nothing! Speed up to 2300 and finally it cooperated with me. The panels were hot! The strangest part was that it was mostly LSP-ready after this pass - especially being dark blue! I used even mixed lighting (LED, Xenon, fluorescent, incandescent), but there were no holograms. Still, I decided to go over with OP/black and then sealed with #21.



My strangest experience...
Click to expand...



I was at a friend's house when he was doing a Miata and it was not coming out good at all. I was teasing him and said something like, "Move over and let me show you how to do this." :lol Then I grabbed his rotary and went to town. NOTHING! The clear on the Miata was after market and was hard as a rock. I ended up wishing him luck and leaving. LOL
 
I hardly ever go over 1300 and get everything out. Just today's products I guess.

1500 sometimes but mostly it's start at 600 or even less to stop any splatter from happening, up to 1000 and finish at 1100 to 1400



1600 plus on a rotary is really moving. I think that's how a detailer took a chunk off of my customers WRX STI side mirror plastic a couple years back. OOPS
 
Man, I have Makita 9227, I never gone over 3 yet(1500). I constant stay at 800-1000(2nd notch).
 
I didn't even read most of the posts here, but can say that 2000 is cooking pretty good. 1200-1800 is a "normal" range.
 
We have the Makita 9227 and our range is 900-1600 rpm. There have been a few times on my test vehicle that I've spun it up to 2000 without any issues.



Walter

Co-owner
 
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