Rotary Questions (and a few others)

ABCDetail

ABCDetail

New member
I've been detailing full time for about 1 yr now as a mobile detailer here in NC, and things have really blossomed. I've been staying booked 2 weeks in advance for a while now, and people seem really pleased with my work. Only problem is I feel like I'm limited in the amount of paint reconditioning I can do because I only use a PC. I can manage to get a good amount of swirling out of most paint, but I've run into a few vehicles with major oxidation and swirling (dark colors) that I havent been able to get looking new.

So I've been thinking about buying a rotary, but all the threads I've read about them have really scared me. How can I get trained to use one without spending $3000 to get trained by Rightlook in SD Cali? Should I just buy some hoods and practice? And what rotary should I buy? Any advice on what to do for learning how to use one would be appreciated!

Oh yeah, side question, does SSR3 contain diminishing abrasives? Should I always use a cutting pad with it, or can I use a megs polishing pad depending on paint condition? (or just use SSR2 with cutting?) Thanks!
 
Hey ABC,

http://wenproducts.com/buffer_basics.htm is a good artice on buffers. From the research I've done, the heavyweights on the market are the Dewalt, Makita, Metabo, Porter Cable even makes a rotary. Some old timers like the Milwaukee, but the thing wieghs 8000 lbs!

I think Makita is a good starter rotary becasue of its two speed trigger and 0 - 3000 rpm capabilities.
You don't have to worry about the high end rpm because IMO, you should NEVER get higher than 1800 for SOME serious cutting applications.

How do you guys use yours rotaries? What do you think of the followng?

1600 - 1800 RPM for heavy duty compund work w/wool pad, expect some swirling with this combo but the next step is down to a lighter compund which will remove the swirls

1400 - 1500 RPM for medium compunding

1200 to 1500 for polishing

what rpms for waxing?

Thanks!
 
What do you do during the winter months? I'm in SC and we both have fairly mild winters, cept this winter. Congrats on your success!
 
ABCDetail,
My advise to you is to buy a rotary and jump right in detailing cars. Find a junker and practice a bit, you'll see how easy it is. Obviously it takes time to get proficiant. In this time, take it easy, use your PC and pull out the rotary for a bit and you will quickly see how effective it is. When I learned how to use a rotary I bought Meguiars professional auto detailing video. It provided me with the basics to get started. I picked up on it in two or three cars. It's been 4 years and I'm still getting better. I haven't used my PC for a long time.
Another thing you should learn, if you don't know already, is how to wet sand. It is extremely easy, you'l be suprised. Also on the megs video.
Let me know if you want to know more, I'd be happy to help.
www.denverdetail.com
 
ive been learning to use the rotary myself .. i went and bought a buffer at harbor freight tools .. got a couple pads and worked on a couple of really bad cars for friends & family . but the real test came yesterday.. my dad came for a visit and his car looked pretty bad . we tried the pc and it didnt look too good ,, so i decided to try out the rotary on the hood . went slow and it started looking better . well i got the hang of it and we ended up doing the whole car .. masked off all edges and trim and worked each panel to perfection . as ive been told with modern compounds you must work them until they break down and i did that .. people new to buffing tend to not work the product long enough .., i stuck with it and finished the job and finished with the pc and some carnuba .. no swirls and the shine is great . my advice is keep the rpm low and dont get in a hurry . use the least abrasive pad & product to start with .. it might take longer but you lessen the risk of damage .. hope this helps .. im going to buff my black pickup when i get my new edge 2000 setup this week .. ill post pics.. sooner or later all pro detailers have to learn to use this tool or you will be limited in the results you get.
 
Little story not to bore but to help in sharing the wisdom ---

My first experience with a rotary* was down at the boatyard back in high school 20+ years ago. I did a couple-a-few hours every week for some pocket cash disk-sanding the wooden hull boats that were in for barnacle removal & re-painting.

I can't help to stress how much it taught me in the finesse of the handling techniques in leaving swirl free finishes. If you used the right section of the sanding disk, and kept it at the right angle, the job breezed by without a face-full of sawdust, and no deep gouging that had to be patched or filled (boats were standing dry docked on stilts so work was done many times above head). Years later when I started detailing cars, by using these techniques with the same machine, this time with wool pads, I got the same results without having to go back and fill in deep swirls. Heck, with the advent of the foam pad, it's hard for me to imagine anyone leaving swirls, but not all of us had to learn without them, yet I see swirled vehicles daily. :dunno

I posted my three tips for beginners earlier this month... here is a link to that thread.

I'll also let ya know that for less than 3 Grand, I'll fly there and give ya one-on-one training with a "variable speed rotary polisher" as they call 'em today* ;)


* I'll probably call it a buffer till they pry it out of my cold dead hand
 
I been using rotary for 5 years now, started out with one

I usually Buff with a wool pad and a compound @ 1800-2200 rpm
on darker cars I use a 3m compund with a foam pad around at 1800 rpms,With Cleaner wax's I usually buff with wool pad thru 1500 tp 1800 rpms
 
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