Rotary question here

I

imported_bored7one4

New member
Hi,



so i just came up on the dewalt 849 which was sitting in my dads garage yayyy!!!. I just recently detail my car with using a PC but i still see swirl marks. here are my steps I did.



wash

clay

wash

LC orange pad using SSR2.5 one pass whole car

LC white pad using SSR1 one pass whole car

EX-P



the car looks pretty good but I can still see swirl marks on my hood even though its very light. the cars looks good but not great. I want to make the jump to a rotary to see if i can get all the swirls out like the pros. Can someone make me a list of what I would need to start on the rotary?? I already have pads for my PC with LC using 6.5inch back plate so will that backing plate work for the rotary too? A list of product to use will help me out too becuase SSR2.5 was dusting up a storm using the PC.



thanks
 
You will need a different backing plate.



Use a cutting foam pad with a finessing compound - like Mark V's UNO. That will remove all the swirls and create a perfectly smooth finish. Then follow up by hand with your favorite wax or sealant to protect the finish.



Just practice on a junk hood first.
 
I would recommend you do a search on this forum, there are several articles detailing rotary use and there are some good vids on youtube as well.



If you are very experienced with the PC I don't think you'll have much problem with the rotary.



I was afraid of the machine and when I finally used it I wished I had tried a LONG time ago.



Read those articles, remember to tape off anything that can be damaged and keep the pad moving and start out on a slow speed and you'll be fine.



As for products... worry more about rotary usage than products. Most products that you use for your PC can be used with a rotary.... but read read read.
 
bored7one4 said:
is it possbile to burn paint with a white polishing pad ? lets say i use somethign like SSR1 with it?
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You can burn paint with any pad and product combo, if you are careless. Yes, you are less likely to do so with less aggressive pads and products, but you still have to pay attention to sharp edges, plastic, etc.
 
blk45 said:
You can burn paint with any pad and product combo, if you are careless. Yes, you are less likely to do so with less aggressive pads and products, but you still have to pay attention to sharp edges, plastic, etc.
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Agreed. So if you are learning, and don't have it down to the best of your ability; I suggest taping all edges and anything that can be easily be burned to have some extra caution.



Also, plastic paint parts will heat up a lot quicker than metal. So use a slower RPM on bumpers and what ever else is plastic on the car.
 
so when you tape up the edges do you polish them by hand afterwards? how would you polish the edges? can someone give me an general rule or idea on what speeds to run the rotary on?
 
bored7one4 said:
so when you tape up the edges do you polish them by hand afterwards?
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Yes, I use M105 if correction is needed, or something milder depends on what is needed.



bored7one4 said:
how would you polish the edges?
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See above.



bored7one4 said:
can someone give me an general rule or idea on what speeds to run the rotary on?
Click to expand...



Slow. As a general rule, just like you can always use something more abrasive (so start out with the least abrasive polish or compound first), start out with slow speeds and less aggressive pads and work up slowly to more aggressive compounds/pads/speeds.



There is no silver bullet, you learn by doing, you will make mistakes, you will spend more time than you want to spend, you will have to experiment, and then when you think you have it figured out, you will try a new car and everything will have changed.



Regards,



Rich - novice rotary user, but not afraid of it.
 
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