Don
Darth Camaro 12/27/15
I had a chance to play with the rotary again yesterday, and I think I discovered why I was having problems with DACP. I used it with a cutting pad on a speed just below â€Ëœ4â€â„¢ on the dial. It dried almost instantly, and there was almost no change in the swirls/scratches in the finish of the practice hood.
Then I used #2 with a finishing pad thinking maybe I was going too aggressive (even though the swirls etc looked nothing like buffer marks). On the same speed setting, I worked the #2 for a few minutes. The #9 stayed oily throughout the entire process, and was so much easier to work with. This time when I checked the finish in the sun (all buffing was done in the shade), it was nearly flawless, with just some minor oily smears. I didnâ€â„¢t get a chance to do an alcohol/water wipe down, so I donâ€â„¢t know if there are a lot of fillers in the #2 that hid the marks or not.
I think I need to find #80 somewhere locally so that I could just follow up the #2/rotary with #80/PC then finish with an LSP.
Any ideas or comments?
Then I used #2 with a finishing pad thinking maybe I was going too aggressive (even though the swirls etc looked nothing like buffer marks). On the same speed setting, I worked the #2 for a few minutes. The #9 stayed oily throughout the entire process, and was so much easier to work with. This time when I checked the finish in the sun (all buffing was done in the shade), it was nearly flawless, with just some minor oily smears. I didnâ€â„¢t get a chance to do an alcohol/water wipe down, so I donâ€â„¢t know if there are a lot of fillers in the #2 that hid the marks or not.
I think I need to find #80 somewhere locally so that I could just follow up the #2/rotary with #80/PC then finish with an LSP.
Any ideas or comments?