Rotary guys...do you still use the PC a lot?

So the rotary can do a lot of work without any added pressure, but I would think adding more pressure to it would easily burn the paint considering how fast it's spinning. Even if it's just 1000RPM.
 
joburnet said:
I tried some DACP and a polishing pad on a clear coated audi and could not figure out how to NOT put holograms in the paint.
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i would suggest NOT using DACP for your final polish and that should cut down on holgrams greatly!



Vernon
 
White95Max said:
So the rotary can do a lot of work without any added pressure, but I would think adding more pressure to it would easily burn the paint considering how fast it's spinning. Even if it's just 1000RPM.
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I think that depends on the paint. I've used my Dewalt 849 w/Hi-temp polishes at 1800 on my Audi and sometimes "lean" on it to work scratch out. Surface gets hot but no burn through.



I've been using that rotary for years and for tough defect removal I like it better than the PC. I use the PC for light stuff.
 
I don't think he meant for DACP to be a finishing polish. IMO, I think he wanted to leave a hologram-free finish and follow up with a light final polish.
 
Well, I did my Mustang GT today with my Harbor Freight Rotary and #80 with a polishing pad...I found out I did not like using a rotary with a 6.5" pad in areas where there were curves and smaller flat areas. The PC was great in those areas as the combo seemed to conform to the different surfaces easier than the rotary. I thought that was strange as both tools have a flexible backing plate. I noticed the PC felt great but when comparing to a neighboring surface done with the rotary, the results with PC were not as good...I guess I need the 4" spot pad combos for these times. I did have holograming with polish pad and 80 on the hood and tried to keep the pad flat but I am fighting that "slight angle" way of buffing I am so used to. The PC took care of the holograms with Hi-Temp Light Cut. I get to do the old Cougar mentioned above tomorrow and will be giving the rotary another go...
 
The only tool I have ever used to correct paint defects in a dewalt rotary. I would not have it any other way. The tool is an absolute beast. I use an orbital to apply wax but thats it. The rotary is the way to go. I would probably be looking for more results if I stepped down to a PC to correct paint defects. Thats just my $.02
 
How long did it take you to get a hologram-free finish while using the rotary? Or did it just come naturally with great results the first time?
 
Hey guys...I did the before-mentioned Cougar today. This car was worse than expected on the roof, trunk, and hood. I was going to take pics but I figured that nothing I used would make enough difference to show off on here...Anyway, I started with the rotary and a LC orange cutting pad with DACP. Immediately, it gummed up on me (I used my typical thin bead x-pattern on the pad too). I went over it again and got the same thing. Since I had just purchased two wool pads from TOL for this project, I went to that. I immediately found better results with DACP. Even with that combo, I had to go over the horizontal areas twice and sometimes three times. I did need something stronger but DACP was the strongest I had (any idea on something stronger to try?). There is still a hazy look to the paint but it does shine and is even. The sides were ok, so I used the PC with DACP, then went over it with #80. I finished the horizontal surfaces with the rotary and #80 and a LC polishing pad. What I found strange is I had no holigrams with the wool pad, but had slight ones with the polishing pad...I was freaking out! Anyway, sorry for the long post, but in the end, I really liked the way the rotary took care of the paint and how good it felt with the wool on speed 2. I will post pics of the finished product as soon as I get the cars' trim dressed so maybe you guys can guide me to something stronger that may help provide better results.
 
Makita rotary, LC concaved foam pads, Menzerna polishes...I really don't need anything else for polishing other than an MF.





Once you get the hang of how the rotary works and what more speed/pressure/product/time over surface/etc does, you start to get really good with it.



For instance, I am able to use Menzerna IP on a lot of finishes with no surface marring/hologramming. It only comes from lot of practice and each clear is different.
 
rw3829- You could always try different products, no need to struggle to master something with all the stuff on the market.



I really like 3M's PI-III RC/MG and 1Z polishes by rotary. Very user-friendly. And everybody seems to like Menzerna stuff with the rotary too.



If you want to try stronger stuff, I'd look at TOL's Hi-Temp offerings.
 
Accumulator said:
rw3829- You could always try different products, no need to struggle to master something with all the stuff on the market.



I really like 3M's PI-III RC/MG and 1Z polishes by rotary. Very user-friendly. And everybody seems to like Menzerna stuff with the rotary too.



If you want to try stronger stuff, I'd look at TOL's Hi-Temp offerings.
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Absolutely...My first online buy was the Hi-Temp Light Cut and it did an amazing job for what I needed. I did look last night on TOL and figure I will get the Extreme Cut and Heavy Compound. This will finish off my complete line of Hi-Temp cutters as I already have LC, MC, and HC. I am also thinking of giving the Menzerna line a try as suggested. Overall, I am a big fan of the Hi-Temp line thus far but tried DACP as I had it lying around...I have read many positive posts on the 3M RC so I may get that down the road. I don't figure on having too many cars with paint problems needing such strong products but you never know. Thanks guys...
 
rw3829- Yeah, between the Hi-Temp and Menzerna you'd be well equipped to handle most anything. Heh heh, be careful with the stronger Hi-Temp products ;)
 
Very true...I am trying my best to use the strongest yet safest products. I will have to have a mind-set of not getting too comfortable with the process of the safer products when it comes to using the tougher stuff. I don't want over-confidence to come back and bite me...lol! When using the stronger products, do you feel it is best worked in with light pressure on the rotary to let the more abrasive product plus weight of the machine do the work, or should slight pressure be applied? Thanks guys...
 
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