Rotary advice and guidance

Jeff U

Jeff U

Member
Rotary advice and guidance ?

Breaking away form the Rupes bank wagon for a moment.

A few years ago I got a FLEX PE14-2-150 and decided I wanted to learn how to use a rotary polisher. I think I am getting the hang of the beast. I really like the quietness of the machine and it's smooth, yet powerful motor.

Are these observations accurate?

  • The key seems to be holding the machine very level against the surface
  • Being level seems much more critical to the finish when using the rotary than when using a DA
  • Holograms are caused by the uneven polishing effect that occurs when the pad gets off of level
  • Am I correct in one of the clear signs the machine is not level is it wants to "walk" across the paint?
  • I find when I am successful in keeping it level the "walking" seems to be minimal or nonexistent
  • Working a small area helps with control. Trying to do a larger area requires a larger the arc of movement of the machine which makes it much easier to get the machine off level
  • I find trying to apply any significant pressure is very difficult. It quickly leads to getting the machine off level, which leads to walking, which creates holograms, etc...
What speeds?

I have been using low speeds (settings 1 to 3) and don't find a good reason to go much higher. Higher seems too fast and tends to make more of a mess as it slings any excess polish everywhere. Is there any reason to go to the upper end of speed?

I have a black car and a silver van. I find I can get a decent finish on the silver. Although I think it is less of my skill and more that silver hides holograms very well. At least I cannot see them.

If I get cocky all I have to do is try the black car and my skill level, or lack there of, gets exposed very quickly.

I looked around the site for a how to on a rotary machine and could many examples of successful use but not a lot of guidance on exact techniques.
 
Hi Jeff, in my experience keeping the pad flat is really important so your on the right track. Also lower speeds for compounding is what works for me polish around 1000. polishing usually 1400-1600 and after my polish is broke down(I usually backfire SRC compound or Src finishing polish) I stop and hit the pad with compressed air reduce speed to 800 and make a few more no pressure passes. Also really helps to keep your pad spritzed with water for all steps. Hope this helps its very general, if you throw out what products your using I'm sure myself or someone else could give you more specific tips.
 
Jsmooth said:
Hi Jeff, in my experience keeping the pad flat is really important so your on the right track. Also lower speeds for compounding is what works for me polish around 1000. polishing usually 1400-1600 and after my polish is broke down(I usually backfire SRC compound or Src finishing polish) I stop and hit the pad with compressed air reduce speed to 800 and make a few more no pressure passes. Also really helps to keep your pad spritzed with water for all steps. Hope this helps its very general, if you throw out what products your using I'm sure myself or someone else could give you more specific tips.
Click to expand...

Using Menzerna Intensive Polish for correction and PO85rd for finishing.
 
With IP you should start at 1500 rpm using medium pressure going in a cross hatch pattern, when you start to see dust stop and blow your pad with compressed air. Drop the speed of the buffer to 800-1000 and with no pressure at all make a cpl more passes. You should be halo free with an almost LSP ready finish depending on your pad. Hope it helps
 
Are you using 6.5" or 5.5" pads?

_____________

100th_harley.gif

wxBanner
Merlin
 
Re: Rotary advice and guidance ?

Jeff U said:
Breaking away form the Rupes bank wagon for a moment.

A few years ago I got a FLEX PE14-2-150 and decided I wanted to learn how to use a rotary polisher. I think I am getting the hang of the beast. I really like the quietness of the machine and it's smooth, yet powerful motor.

Are these observations accurate?

  • The key seems to be holding the machine very level against the surface
  • Being level seems much more critical to the finish when using the rotary than when using a DA
  • Holograms are caused by the uneven polishing effect that occurs when the pad gets off of level
  • Am I correct in one of the clear signs the machine is not level is it wants to "walk" across the paint?
  • I find when I am successful in keeping it level the "walking" seems to be minimal or nonexistent
  • Working a small area helps with control. Trying to do a larger area requires a larger the arc of movement of the machine which makes it much easier to get the machine off level
  • I find trying to apply any significant pressure is very difficult. It quickly leads to getting the machine off level, which leads to walking, which creates holograms, etc...
What speeds?

I have been using low speeds (settings 1 to 3) and don't find a good reason to go much higher. Higher seems too fast and tends to make more of a mess as it slings any excess polish everywhere. Is there any reason to go to the upper end of speed?

I have a black car and a silver van. I find I can get a decent finish on the silver. Although I think it is less of my skill and more that silver hides holograms very well. At least I cannot see them.

If I get cocky all I have to do is try the black car and my skill level, or lack there of, gets exposed very quickly.

I looked around the site for a how to on a rotary machine and could many examples of successful use but not a lot of guidance on exact techniques.
Click to expand...

The key seems to be holding the machine very level against the surface
Click to expand...

Most times you want to keep a rotary flat although there are times you would want to tilt the machine on an angle. I prefer to polish with a slight angle/tilt (not enough to lift the pad).

Being level seems much more critical to the finish when using the rotary than when using a DA
Click to expand...

When finishing you want to have as much even pressure over the surface as possible to prevent scratching.

Holograms are caused by the uneven polishing effect that occurs when the pad gets off of level
Click to expand...

That is one of the causes of holograms. Holograms (or at least visible holograms) are created when ever the polishing medium creates scratches in a uniform pattern for your eye to see. When you tilt the pad too much you create uneven pressure which increases the aggressiveness of the polishing action in that area (leading to more scratching).

Also the pad is compressing and then expanding as it comes into contact then planes off the surface. This again pushes the abrasive polish/pad material into the paint unevenly, increasing the aggressiveness in certain sections of the working surface, again increasing the likely hood of holograms.

Am I correct in one of the clear signs the machine is not level is it wants to "walk" across the paint?
Click to expand...

Yes, although this is how you steer a rotary as well. A small amount of tilt will allow you to "drive" the pad where you want it to go and help you control the rotary.

I find when I am successful in keeping it level the "walking" seems to be minimal or nonexistent
Click to expand...

Yes, when the pressure is distributed evenly the rotary will "balance" and hover.

Working a small area helps with control. Trying to do a larger area requires a larger the arc of movement of the machine which makes it much easier to get the machine off level

I find trying to apply any significant pressure is very difficult. It quickly leads to getting the machine off level, which leads to walking, which creates holograms, etc...
Click to expand...

With time you will get more control.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top