Rewashing After Heavy Polishing Neccessary?

1- Proper masking

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2- Compressed air

3- Klasse AIO to get rid of the oils



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After08.jpg




I really don't see the benefit of washing and taking the risk of inducing minor swirls on the unprotected finish.
 
Crazy pics of the Mustang!



How do you polish the areas, such as on the hood scoop, the area between the trips, the edges of the hood and front fenders, the grill inset from the lights, the a-pillar and the roof on the edge of the windshield with it all taped away?



Wouldn't you have to remove the tape from these areas to polish them, and in doing so create enough of a mess in that area to warrent a re-wash? I always seem to get 'tape lines' when I tape, like a little seam of dried up polish, that I wouldn't want to scrub away, or even mix with any other product.



I wouldn't personally trust Klasse AIO for inspection purposes. While it is not a 'heavy filler' by any stretch of the imagination, any product that is leaving 'something' behind on the paint is going to do some slight filling, perhaps enough to cover the very faint marring and holograms we all work so hard to avoid.



However, as many times before, I could be wrong (not the first nor last time) so I am curious as how you work around the inhernet downfalls.



BTW, that last picture looks awesome, it is magazine quality! It looks like you truly did do an amazing job!!! :waxing:
 
TH0001 said:
How do you polish the areas, such as on the hood scoop, the area between the trips, the edges of the hood and front fenders, the grill inset from the lights, the a-pillar and the roof on the edge of the windshield with it all taped away?



Wouldn't you have to remove the tape from these areas to polish them, and in doing so create enough of a mess in that area to warrent a re-wash? I always seem to get 'tape lines' when I tape, like a little seam of dried up polish, that I wouldn't want to scrub away, or even mix with any other product.
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The mentioned areas are mainly protected against high dusting products like M105. The other areas that you mentioned are then completed via 1 or 2 passes of SIP which doesn't dust. It's a good compromise.



TH0001 said:
I wouldn't personally trust Klasse AIO for inspection purposes. While it is not a 'heavy filler' by any stretch of the imagination, any product that is leaving 'something' behind on the paint is going to do some slight filling, perhaps enough to cover the very faint marring and holograms we all work so hard to avoid.
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I still use IPA to inspect some specific spots, but overall KAIO is my prep work to remove the oils.



TH0001 said:
BTW, that last picture looks awesome, it is magazine quality! It looks like you truly did do an amazing job!!![/FONT] :waxing:
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Hahahahaha thanks!!! Gotta love SLRs with fast lenses.
 
I used to try very hard to avoid rewashing the car after polishing, or even getting it wet, as sometimes it feels like you are making two steps back for every shuffle forward.



But I found personally that I spent more time trying to avoid washing then washing itself would take. I probably spend as much time on the final wash as I do on the inital wash (for different reasons), going aroung and washing every crack, crevice, and seam with microfiber towels wrapped around popsicle sticks or tongue depressors, cleaning around every badge, emblem, vent, and crease before washing the whole thing down. And I am 100 percent with David, I find that a pressure washer is the best tool (for me) for the job.
 
Whether or not you re-wash depends on several factors. If the polish contains silicone, I would say a wipe down with the proper product would be in order to remove the silicone and allow for proper bonding of the sealant. The polishes I use do not contain silicone, so I would not do a wipe down. Second, if you get product residue and dust all over the car, re-washing would make sense. I can usually avoid this, unless I am doing some heavy correction with the rotary. Otherwise I am polishing with the Cyclo and residue and dust is not an issue. In the end, re-washing is an extra step that I would have to charge extra for. Add that to an already price conscious market and people will think twice about buying services. Of course if you have a customer who is looking for perfection type work and is willing to pay for any and all necessary steps, it is warranted. Usually though, that is not the case for me.
 
JoshVette said:
Is it just me, am I the only one who rewashes cars after polishing them before using the LSP?



I've been reading tons of click and brags lately and seems no one I notice is rewashing the cars after they do a full correction or a 2 step PC job or whatever?



People seem to be putting LSP's right over freshly wiped down polished surfaces. I know the lubes, oils and silicone's don't come off by simply wiping with a dry MF towel? Plus for me it helps to get all the powder out of the cracks and different areas.



I could understand an Alcohol wipe down at least, or a good cleaner wax AIO pre LSP step or something but I don't see anyone talking about that in there process?



Hope I'm not being judgmental but is it not necessary to rewash after polishing steps.



Josh
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I rarely state the rewash in my C&B's, not sure why I don't list it....guess I figured it was a common practice much like the initial wash. If I'm using anything that creates a large amount of dust I'm rewashing, which is usually anything with 2 or more steps.
 
Xcessiv said:
...Klasse AIO to get rid of the oils...I really don't see the benefit of washing and taking the risk of inducing minor swirls on the unprotected finish.
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I can't get KAIO (or any of my other AIOs) to completely remove the oils from M205, and I've really tried to do it that way. Not even close to the way PrepWash/etc. cleans things up.



I'll agree that there's a *chance* of marring whenever you do most anything, but if all you're washing off are the remains of your polish, and you're using soft-enough wash/dry media, it shouldn't be very likely. Not sure why it'd be any more likely than any other wiping of the same surfaces.
 
I just want to say one thing, remember autopians, just cause it says "no silicone" doesn't mean that there are not lubricants in the product. There has to be a lubricant of some sort, it's not possible not to have one, otherwise it would be polishing with sand on a beach.



No matter what the product it will have lubes that need to be removed before the LSP is put down.
 
JoshVette said:
I just want to say one thing, remember autopians, just cause it says "no silicone" doesn't mean that there are not lubricants in the product. There has to be a lubricant of some sort, it's not possible not to have one, otherwise it would be polishing with sand on a beach.



No matter what the product it will have lubes that need to be removed before the LSP is put down.
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But just remember because it's not plain sand and it has emulsifiers and other liquids in it that they aren't all fillers. Several folks do M105/M205 compounding/polishing with IPA wipedowns after the fact (just in case) and obviously aren't coming back up with swirls and scratches. So does that mean that M105/M205 don't have fillers or merely that the compound/polish job left no scratches to be filled?



:usa
 
Mindflux said:
But just remember because it's not plain sand and it has emulsifiers and other liquids in it that they aren't all fillers. Several folks do M105/M205 compounding/polishing with IPA wipedowns after the fact (just in case) and obviously aren't coming back up with swirls and scratches. So does that mean that M105/M205 don't have fillers or merely that the compound/polish job left no scratches to be filled?



:usa
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I think you're mistaking lubricants as fillers, that is not at all what I'm talking about.



Lubricants don't always fill unless forms of oils, silicone's are use as a lube then yes they will fill, but that's not really the discussion I'm trying to have.



Not trying to open up the "fillers" can of worms, I can't handle any more of those discussions.:argue:grinno:



Josh
 
JoshVette said:
I think you're mistaking lubricants as fillers, that is not at all what I'm talking about.



Lubricants don't always fill unless forms of oils, silicone's are use as a lube then yes they will fill, but that's not really the discussion I'm trying to have.



Not trying to open up the "fillers" can of worms, I can't handle any more of those discussions.:argue:grinno:



Josh
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I am not confused at all. Some lubricants fill, some don't. Case in point with m105/m205.



I think IPA wipedowns / rewashes are warranted with product with known swirl masking/filling properties (or dust a lot). Which in turn means it's not always REQUIRED.



Writing this from my phone so forgive my typos.
 
Mindflux said:
I am not confused at all. Some lubricants fill, some don't. Case in point with m105/m205.
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I have had some stuff come back (usually pretty minor) after letting the sun flash off whatever lubricants #105 has, but with #205 (which I always follow #105 with) doesn't appear to have that problem or it simply finishes out well enough. #83 though, wow, that stuff hides some scary stuff at times. :nervous2



I think IPA wipedowns / rewashes are warranted with product with known swirl masking/filling properties (or dust a lot). Which in turn means it's not always REQUIRED.
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Agreed. I haven't found any issues using carnaubas or Opti-Seal without doing anything other than washing. If you are using a sealant that needs a squeaky clean finish, I can see where an IPA wipedown would be beneficial.
 
I haven't experienced any filling with M105, but I've experinced nasty filling twice with M205. Once/1st with a dark blue 2010 S550 Benz where I used M205 via orange LC. It looked awsome until I did a IA wipedown. Then...pad hazing galore. Ended up having to redo the entire car again with a white padto bring out the gloss. This was in the middle of winter here and there wasn't any sun at the time.



Anyone that thinks polishing oils won't interfere with sealant bonding might want to contact some manufacturers to confirm. I've spoke to 4 so far and they confirm that creating a bare naked surface promotes the absolute best bonding. You really need to watch out for some polishes that use Oleic Acid; which I've been told is in some Meg's polishes (not M105/205).
 
I have experienced filling with 105, wet sanding RIDS, on GM paint. Another slow pass and it was good.
 
Any polish can mask defects, whether it is designed to or not. This comes from the top guys at Meguiar's as well as the gentleman who formulated the SRC polishes for Menzerna. It is the natural of the beast and can occur for multiple reasons.



Case in point, I have never experienced filling with M105 on a DA, but have on rare occasion experienced it with M105 on a rotary. On the other hand I have never experienced M205 fill, but understand that it can.



You are heating the surface of the paint which is causing it to expand, like stretching the skin apart on the top of your wrists. This alone can cause defects to be less visible.
 
My personal experience with Meguires products is that they are FILLER PRONE. Just my TWO cents for what it is worth. The PRESTA 1500 has NO FILLERS! The Menzerna products have NO FILLERS! Sorry, for what I charge, I cant take a chance using products with fillers. No offense meant to Meguires....they are OK to seal and wax with but, when it comes to REJUVE my choice is the foreign names! I dont need to mention them again. I learned my lesson over 15 years ago with Meg----! Please don't take offense. If it works for you, like Dr Phill says, go with it.
 
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