Coatings - Side by side:
Composition/Technology:
Opti-Coat – Ceramic-Silicon Carbide clear resin coating
CQuartz- Ceramic Nano-tech
Application Summary: (Do not apply in the sun)
Opti-Coat 2.0 should be applied section by section and any high spots that remain should be evened out with your applicator or with a paint safe MF towel asap. In higher temperatures, which is what I dealt with I found I really needed to remove the ridges as I went after each small section. It is recommended (by Optimum) to avoid buffing unnecessarily. After removing the high spots OC should self-level throughout its cure time. Be sure to look for high spots with a light source as well as shaded from light. I found the ridges in my panel while shaded that were invisible when bright light was on them.
Cquartz is applied and (after hazing) is buffed off. The wait time before buffing off hinges on the temperatures. During the first ten minutes, any spots that were missed can be touched up. But only during this time, afterward don’t try to re-fill missing spots, otherwise it can stain the paint.
Initial Care:
Opti-Coat – Allow to cure before washing
CQuartz- Avoid washing the vehicle with any soap for 7 days. Rinsing with water is ok.
Layering:
Opti-Coat cannot and does not need to be layered.
CQuartz can be layered and recommends you use 2 layers for more thickness, durability, and hardness.
Durability Claims:
Opti-Coat - Lifetime of paint
CQuartz- 2 Years
Scratch Resistance:
With both coatings being applied side by side on the same panels I’m in a good position to test this. With the tape line down the middle on blue there should be some fine hairline wash swirls showing in a couple months. I look forward to seeing which coating repels them the most.
Slickness:
Opti-Coat – Not as slick as sealants and wax are to the touch (You can use any of the Optimum Detail sprays or the Optimum spray wax to add slickness) Richy mentioned to me that Reload works here as well.
CQuartz- Not as slick as sealants and wax are to the touch but slicker than OC (Carpro recommends you use Reload to add slickness)
Care:
Opti-Coat- Washing is all that is needed. OC can be clayed but it should not be necessary and Optimum Poli-Seal can be used with a foam-finishing pad to clean the paint over time. Remember this coating is expected to last for years.
CQuartz- Washing is all that is needed. CQ can be clayed with mild clay.
Bird Bomb repellency:
Will either coating protect against bird bombs? I’m not sure about that but I would continue to remove bird bombs asap. Bird bombs can eat through sealants and into regular clear coat within a matter of just a coupIe minutes so I wouldn’t expect either coating to protect from a bird bomb for long. However I would expect it to buy you more time than a wax or sealant. The question at that point becomes: What does the coating look like where the bird bomb was? Is there an etch mark in the coating?
Opti-coat - If you did get a bird bomb etching I imagine you could remove it with Poli-seal.
Cquartz - Even if you have to polish the etched area all the way through the coating you could simply recoat that specific spot with another layer of Cquartz. I don’t believe the same is possible with OC.
Final Observations and Summary:
First off these products are definitely very different and each has it’s own strengths. Now let me get into the things I really like as well as the quibbles.
Both products look great. The real question is, how well you clay, polish, and prep the surface for application. Period. The Opti-Coat seems to be slightly darker particularly on black paint. On the black test panel I used it was noticeably darker than the CQuartz. On the blue and green cars this was not nearly as apparent and it seemed to have a slightly different affect. However there was an obvious depth to it.
I may have sniffed too many coating fumes but I think if you look at these 2 cars long enough the visual effect of the CQ seems to pop out at you a little while the OC seems to have serious depth to it. It maybe that was just the visual affect of the particular cloud arrangement I was looking at when I came to this opinion.
Faded Plastic Trim: The coatings went on dark initially but faded as they dried and in my opinion they are a waste of product on seriously faded plastic. I think some people expected them to restore in the way that C4 does and that just doesn’t seem to be the case. It could be this is just the specific plastic I tried it on and other plastics would find a different result. For new plastic trim I’m sure either coating is an excellent product. I haven’t tested either on newer plastic trim yet.
I initially preferred the glass drip/stop bottle that is used with CQuartz to the syringe style container from Optimum. Edit: Over time it has become quite apparent to me that the syringe is very functional so that you can remove all the air from the syringe before re-capping it. You don't want to leave oxygen in the syringe with the remaining product
Edit: Text removed
I found application of CQuartz to be a little easier to apply correctly for a first time user of both products in high temperatures. Clear and specific directions in the packaging would level the playing field some for me. Also, if applied in cooler temperatures than shown here I can see the Opti-coat gaining the advantage in ease of use. To be fair, with hindsight being 20/20 I should have used the foam applicator that was recommended for Opti-Coat 2.0 application. The foam applicator would have distributed the product more evenly and evening out any ridges may have been a non factor.
Edit: Now that I have had some experince with OptiCoat and understand to apply it similar to a wowa sealant (Thanks to Chris) it has become easier for me. The key is to pay attention and not leave any high spots. This is fairly straightforward if you take your time inspecting and make sure to tap off high spots immediately if you dont see them flash with the majority of the area.
Q & A with Dr. G of Optimum:
Dr. G, It was great having an opportunity to talk with you at Detail Fest again this year. I have a few questions I was hoping you could answer for everyone. This Q&A will be posted online in my Coatings Review and Extreme Testing article.
Corey, It was a great pleasure seeing you again also and congratulations on the well deserved award you won for your thorough forum reviews. Your questions here are a prime example of your thoroughness which is partly due to your engineering background.
I also want to thank Chris for doing a superb job of explaining how to apply Opti-Coat to make the process easier and more effective for all users.
1.-What would be the consequences of using more than light pressure to buff off high spots or ridges within minutes of application?
When applying Opti-Coat 2.0, the best results are achieved with an even and continuous coat. If you have any high spots, it will be hazy and stays hazy after curing. Using the foam applicator with light pressure helps even out the high spots while using too much pressure can release more product from the sponge and would defeat the purpose. Alternatively a microfiber towel can be used to remove the excess product, however, with this approach there is a possibility of removing all the resins.
2.-Approximately how many microns will Opti-Coat 2.0 add to paint?
By using the contents of the syringe on a large SUV, it will add 2-3 microns of Opti-Coat to the paint. For smaller cars you can achieve the same results with less product.
3.-Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be applied to single stage paints of any age?
Opti-Coat 2.0 was designed for clearcoat paint and it should be applied after the paint defects are removed. We have not done any long term testing with this product on single stage paint.
There are several professional detailers that have applied Opti-Coat to single stage paint after removing all the defects and oxidation with great results. They might be able to provide more information on this application but the main purpose of this product is to protect clearcoat from the elements and premature failure due to over-polishing.
4.-Consider a car with older single stage paint that is badly oxidized and faded and then polished to perfection and brought back to glossy condition. Can Opti-Coat 2.0 lock in the gloss or have any effect stopping the paint from regressing to its faded condition?
Please refer to the previous answer.
5.-Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be used on leather, vinyl, and interior plastics?
Absolutely not. Opti-Coat 2.0 is designed for use on exterior automotive surfaces only. It cross-links and forms a hard clear film therefore it should not be applied to flexible substrates including leather, vinyl, soft tops, tire, etc.
6.-What would be the outcome if Opti-Coat 2.0 was applied to a properly cleaned tire?
Please refer to the previous answer.
7.-I understand using Optimum Poliseal with a foam-finishing pad is the acceptable method of cleaning the coating down the road. Is this correct?
Yes, you can use Poli-Seal by hand or with a foam finishing pad to clean Opti-Coat or to add additional gloss.
8.-Are other Optimum products, such as OptiClean and Optimum No Rinse friendly with Opti-Coat 2.0? If they are friendly do they require any adaptation in their application compared with how they are used on non-coated paint.
Yes, we design all our products to be compatible with each other to make the process easier and that includes the products you mentioned as well as other Optimum products such as Optimum Car Wax, Opti-Seal, Instant Detailer, etc.
9.-What temperatures will cured Opti-Coat 2.0 withstand before failing?
Opti-Coat 2.0 forms ceramic bonds (Si-C) at very high temperatures and will not be damaged by extreme heat. Therefore, it can be used to protect wheels, brake calipers, engine compartments without any issues.
10.-Assuming its kept indoors in 65-78 degrees what is the shelf life of Opti-Coat 2.0 before being opened by the consumer?
Opti-Coat 2.0 has an infinite shelf life as long as moisture is not introduced into the product.
11.-If only some of the syringe is used and it is properly resealed with the cap what will the remaining shelf life be? Assume its kept indoors in 65-78 degrees.
Please refer to the previous answer.
12.-Can a small touchup spot of Opti-Coat 2.0 be applied over a previously Opti-coated panel. For instance: If you get a rock chip in your paint and need to touch it up then want to recoat the touched up area with Opti-coat can you simply apply OC to that one small area? Would there be any negative affects where the touch-up OC overlapped the existing OC?
Once Opti-Coat cures, it will repel most everything even the fresh resin. If you have to recoat a section, you will have to polish the entire panel first with Optimum Polish or Optimum Finish. Then, you will need to wipe the panel down with a damp microfiber towel to remove any residue before reapplying Opti-Coat 2.0 to the entire panel.
Thank you so much for your work on this innovative product and as always thank you for taking the time to answer my questions in such an insightful manner.
Corey, I appreciate the time you put into testing and educating forum members on how to use and benefit from different automotive appearance products. As a paint chemist, I was always puzzled why people over-polish their car paint and cause the paint to fail prematurely (we all have seen examples of clearcoat failure). Opti-Coat 2.0 is the most effective way to avoid premature failure of clearcoats.
Our research team spent over 4 years developing and testing Opti-Coat before it was released for professional use and another 3 years to develop Opti-Coat 2.0 for consumer use. This coating has better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, and better chemical resistance than factory clears. Therefore the effects of the elements on Opti-Coat 2.0 is far less than factory clears and there will be much less need for polishing once this is applied on top of the existing clear. Even if you do remove Opti-Coat 2.0 by polishing, you can easily replace it by adding another coat.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again.
Best Regards,
David
------------------------------------------
Q & A with Avi of Carpro:
Avi, I have a few questions I was hoping you could answer for everyone. This Q&A will be posted online in my Coatings Review and Extreme Testing article.
1.-What would be the consequences of buffing the product off too soon?
You will remove some of the coating layer.
2.-You give specific instructions on how long to wait before buffing. Are those “wait times” the minimums? What I’m getting at it is: Are there any consequence to waiting longer before buffing off? If you wait too long will it still buff clear easily?
If you will wait too long it will be little sticky harder to remover, but you need to understand , this is not exact science, there are lots of figures which effect the time and curing, temp. humidity, thickness of layering... normally you wont have troubles, its mostly need minimum time for the solgel procedure reaction to happen.
(Edit: the minimum times are definitely minimum times in my and others exoeriences. Waiting a good bit longer seems to be just fine.
3.-Approximately how many microns will (1) coating of Cquartz add to paint?
Between 0.7 ~1.5 microns
4.-Approximately how many microns will additional coatings of Cquartz add to paint?
Probably the same
5.-Can Cquartz be applied to single stage paints of any age?
Well, this I'm not sure... If it’s very old it will remove some of the paint. The effect wont be good, we tested on acrylic paint and it didn’t effect so well. Remember this is not to replace clear coat!! Clear coat has 20~30 microns minimum.
6.-Consider a car with older single stage paint that is badly oxidized and faded and then polished to perfection and brought back to glossy condition. Will Cquartz lock in the gloss or have any effect stopping the paint from regressing to its faded condition?
I’m not sure about that and can’t give you an exact answer. We usually use it on normal car painted in Europe.
7.-Should you expect any color transfer from single stage paint onto your applicator if you later apply a second coat?
I think yes, but you need to try yourself.
8.-CQuartz claims it can be used on leather and rubber. Can it be used on interior vinyl and plastics as well?
On rubber yes, on leather not really, interior plastic you can although I think it’s too expensive for that.
9.-What would be the outcome if Cquartz was applied to a properly cleaned tire?
I think it’s a waste of money to use Cquartz on tires.
10.-What temperatures will cured Cquartz withstand before failing?
For this I think you should see our flame retarding video on car paint. I think between 800 to 1000 C it started to peel the paint from the car. See the video on my site. It’s really impressive and show how well Cquartz is bonded to paint.
11.-Assuming its kept indoors in 65-78 degrees what is the shelf life of Cquartz before being opened by the consumer?
1 year minimum, keep away from moister and refrigerator.
12.-If only some of the bottle is used and the cap replaced tightly what would the remaining shelf life be? Assume it is kept indoors in 65-78 degrees.
Maybe 6 months.. that’s why we do it in small bottles, not to store much.. We have 400ml bottles for car polish stations that do lots of cars.
13.-Can Cquartz be clayed a year down the line if any contaminants stick to it?
Yes, soft/light clay wont be a problem. Use the IXSG regularly and you will be surprised how needless clay is after.
14.-Can or should a paint cleaner be used on Cquartz say a year down the line?
Once Cquartz is well dried and cured, no solvent or alcohol can remove it. You can clean it as you want.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions on this innovative product. It’s much appreciated by many people.
Any time!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE: Months later
(UPDATED APPLICATION METHODS)
AND REACTION TO WATER ON COATED VERTICAL PANELS
Additional Videos: Opti-Coat 2.0 and Ceramic Quartz
Here is some additional media. Whatever you do don’t miss the second video after the 30 second mark. I was very impressed. The mailman happened to be delivering a package that day and when he saw it in action he asked me to tell him all about it which of course I was happy to do.
Optimum: Opti-Coat 2.0
The first video shows application of Opti-Coat 2.0. Note the speed at which the product flashes is dependant on the temperature and humidity in my experience. The application to the taillight took place on a separate occasion but was spliced together in this video.
YouTube - Optimum Opti-coat 2.0 Application.wmv
The second video shows water sheeting and beading affects of Opti-coat 2.0 on a vertical panel. This video was taken a couple weeks after application.
YouTube - OPTI COAT 2.0 WATER REACTIONS.wmv
Car Pro: CQuartz:
The third video shows the favored applicator for Cquartz application and then the water sheeting and beading affects of CQuartz on a vertical panel. The water affect portion was shot a couple weeks after application. My apologies the CQ application at the beginning of the video was cut short because the memory card was full.
YouTube - CQUARTZ WATER REACTIONS.wmv
That aside, they both sound good, but I would lean toward OC as it should last longer (as I'm not applying it myself I wouldn't be able to re-apply CQ every few years).